davidwort

can't find a 2L diagram but the 1.8 should be similar If you can't find a replacement rigid vac line (ebay?) then just use a long length of vac hose

535 is a rhd Corrado part number, if may well be correct as it seems to have a later 'D' suffix than the part numbers on the old etka parts list. would be interesting to see them side by side

22 spline are on post 92 cars, so early 16v and g60s have the 36 spline rack and uj btw, to add an image you need to 'go advanced' on the post editor and then select manage attachments

They're all much the same and you won't notice any difference from reusable panel filters, they won't harm the engine either though. Paper filters do filter slightly finer particles from the air and are in theory slightly more restrictive but the 16v filter is a fair size so it's not a restriction on the inlet side of the engine really anyway.

If I remember rightly the mk3 golf has the longest legged 16v ratios, the 1.8 16v the shortest, I wouldn't use a box from a G60 or diesel though as it just wouldn't suit the 16v, ideally you want a longer 5th added to a standard 16v box

Yes, essentially they are all the same, with interchangeable cams, valvegear and ancillaries, only the actual head casting changes a little from one head part number to another, where vw decided to tweak the cooling galleries and possibly other very minor casting changes that may affect flow a tiny amount. The only 16v heads with any major revisions are the mk3 golf ones, from the 'abf' engine (2L) these have different valvegear and are probably the best factory standard heads.

Wasn't an issue on my 16v, kr head on a 6A block, which is basically a 9A that originally had a sump and oil pump to fit an audi, ie mounted length ways

yes it can, only very minor casting differences between 6A/9A (2L) and KR/PL (1.8 ) heads and you can also directly swap a mk3 golf 16v head (ABF engine/ACE in audi)

Probably changed the speedo for a second hand one, unless it's a concours low miler I'd be more interested in the general condition and body than the numbers on the dash Oh and welcome by the way!

I'd say the small one is for the rad fan run on switch that fits to the front leftmost cam cover bolt, if the valver is a 2L thethe other one looks a bit like the Lambda connection or maybe the meteringmetering head control unit

I'd imagine very rare to find now but the B3 passat estate glass roof has the best profile to suit the Corrado roof IIRC, I remember extracting one from a scrap yard once

If you can get a slightly higher lift cam like the shrick that kipvw has in his 2L then that definitely makes the 2L more sprightly

I don't understand, a bare metal pedal allows your sole to move against the pedal to allow smooth control of the throttle, why put a rubber grip on it? It makes total sense on brake or clutch pedal but not the throttle.

sounds like a fuel delivery issue when the throttle opens, if it's ok warm then I suspect the warm up regulator (on right of head with 2 fuel lines) and/or the thermotimeswitch (bigger of the sensors on the side of the head) is not working right, I have some 1.8 kjet info for the corrado if you pm me an email

you need to get some T-cut on that bodywork...

the motors can be removed from the regulator, so all I'm saying is that for a long lasting repair, if the regulator itself isn't damaged it would be a worthwhile option to send the motor off to a specialist to be re-wound. it's also possible this spec of motor is used on other vehicles but I've not compared any myself ... actually looking at the passat rear doors of a similar age, they use the same kind of regulator (fronts are just arms, no cables), so although the regulator is a slightly different fitment I'd imagine the motor is the same

the wiring to the number plate holders can corrode quite badly but it sounds more like you have breaks in the wires where they enter the top of the tailgate, I'd get a multimeter and start checking continuity, sewing pin stuck through the cable sheathing etc...

yep, it won't harm to inspect the side runners make sure the glass can move freely, remove dirt and lubricate with some silicone spray etc, but if the motor itself is partially burnt out or very weak then it is actually possible to change/refurb the motor windings if you can't get hold of a complete new regulator and motor (which may be weak if second hand anyway)

The 16v has temp sensors on the side of the head, around the water outlet flange, one for dash gauge and two others for ecu and idle circuit I think, with the ke jet system on the 2L if you disconnect the lambda and temp sensor to the ecu it should run in basic k jet mode, I.e. Ignoring the lambda input and if will use a fixed temp value built into the ecu. This can get around lambda issues for testing. the 16v can have issues with the metering head if it gets water into it or has been tampered with, other favourites are poor pattern lambda sensors, hall senders on the dizzy breaking down and oil in the distributor. As long as the fuel pump isn't groaning or making variable pitch noises it should be good. You might also replace the fuel pump relay in the fuse box. if you take the metering head top off the air box lift it up and check the air plate/fuel plunger moves freely and smoothly as this affects distribution of fuel to the injectors. Also check for any splits in the inlet rubber connectors or any damaged vacuum lines, and check the idle switch on the throttle body is switched with the throttle shut and that the wiring to the switch is good, you can test the switch for continuity when pressed. the 2l 16v has an electronic module on the side of the metering head that controls the differential pressure in the system, this affects fuel delivery by acting against the air plate plunger, it has basically the same function as the warm up regulator on a basic kjet 1.8 16v and allows fuel enrichment and I think ecu control from lambda input if the plugs are black it's been running rich which could point to the temp sensor or lambda, seems more likely to be fuel delivery than the ignition side you can do a fuel delivery test by pulling out the injectors and spraying them into jars for a few seconds, I've done this by jumping the fuel relay connectors and using the battery earth as a switch to power the pump, you jack the metering head/airbox top up and lift the air plate a little to open the fuel distribution, spray pattern and amount of fuel delivered by each injector in 30 secs or so will tell you a fair bit. lots to go on there. if I can dig out some old vag manuals I have they might have some more info on component tests and fault finding, but there's a lot you can do to rule out things.

have you replaced the complete track rods, the inner joints where they screw into the rack can give vague steering

Pick up the old 88-92 passat Haynes from amazon or eBay, that'll give you virtually all the info you need

so, what this has made me think about (apart from peoples temper on the interweb) is the width measurement of tyres, does the '195' in 195-50-15 refer to the tread width? My old sebrings were 6.5J rims which is 165mm, clearly no relation to the tyre width??? I then fitted the same 195 tyres to 7J rims and was advised that they would 'control the sidewall better in cornering', which made sense, but is that BS?

I've seen some Vauxhall covers on ebay with the same button down top cover that come in various sizes, seem to go for a lot considering most are pretty grubby looking though, perhaps because they seem to be over £70 new from Vauxhall. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Astra-G-mk4-mk5-BATTERY-BAG-COVER-CAR-DTI-CDTI-SPORTIVE-VAN-SXI-LS-VXR-/311503175901?hash=item48870940dd:g:R3IAAOxyRhBSzGR4

I've never 'got' this styling feature, it just looks so obviously like it's a bad idea, but then I suppose it's actually less dangerous than lowering a car so much the suspension can't perform as designed.

there's a sensor on the coil lead for the 2L ecu