davidwort

I bought a febi late mk2/16v Corrado reservoir from avs, it was utter rubbish, the bottom outlet was so badly moulded it leaked water and the cap didn't screw down properly, I replaced it with a GSF one which has been perfect.

It's just the fill pipe which is an interference fit in the pump body, problem is when they come loose they don't seem to hold back in. It might be possible to glue them in place with an epoxy resin or something.

you never know, if I pull my finger out I might get my black 16v up there this year

paulcan69, can I suggest you consider donating this to the forum, this could then be kept by one or more of the moderators and used to benefit all current and future members? :)

alternatively, I've used this stuff recently to improve the underbonnet insulation on a diesel, it doesn't have the small square cutout surface of the OEM foam but it is good quality, fireproof foam with an excellent adhesive backing 25mm thick 1m x 1m is £38 delivered (equivalent to about 50 Euros if you compare to the 80 Euros for the ready cut kit from the Group Buy) you'd need to cut to size for each bonnet section http://www.efoam.co.uk/fireseal-class-0-acoustic-foam.php

With a bit of ingenuity you can prise the abs rings off and use them again, I've done that before with no issue, just make sure they are squeezed together a little before pushing onto the new disk so they fit tightly

engine block is the only important number as it's on the vehicle reg document, on an old car these can be almost impossible to read with corrosion but they can always be ground off and re-stamped :)

:) what I meant was, is the roof colour plasti dip or was that something else that has already been removed before the pics were taken [ATTACH=CONFIG]81042[/ATTACH]

welcome to the forum! interesting paint job, is that the plasti dip?

that's a good idea!

the Haynes '88 - '91 Passat manual (out of print pink one) has almost identical wiring diagrams to the corrado 16v

I just sponged on foam from a carpet cleaning liquid and dabbed off to almost dry with a non-coloured paper roll

it will, but I seriously wouldn't bother, it just shifts the torque very slightly higher the good thing about the 1.8 'KR' engine is that you can replace the bottom end with a number of 2 litre VW blocks which all bolt up directly and no-one will ever notice the difference unless they strip it down and measure the bore and crank throw, none of the injection system or ancillaries need to be changed it's also a fairly simple engine to work on and the basic CIS-E injection system is used on many of the late 70's to early 90's American spec VW's

Alternatively... VW heritage £30

still got my amiga under my bed, don't think anything bar the ps1 has impressed me as much the first time I saw it in action, that includes the ps4. Speedball 2, lemmings, shadow of the beast, and all those amazing demos

can't remember the part number off the top of my head :) but it's usually marked 167 and is one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK2-MK3-CORRADO-FUEL-PUMP-RELAY-C193-/190463692786?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Car+Make%3AVW&hash=item2c58854ff2

at my kids request we had squeezy plastic Jif Lemon, syrup, caramel chocolate spread and strawberry syrup ice-cream topping, I think one may have had all of those at the same time too!

The door lock connection is there to tell the box to operate the passenger and tailgate locks, I had two problems, firstly the well known weak spot in the door wiring where there's a join and the wiring corrodes away, and secondly a duff vacuum unit in the boot, If your wiring is good then I'd suggest trying to find someone to swap the vac unit with to check the operation of yours, that's how I diagnosed mine, I think the board dies and then the relays/pump fails to operate.

really useful info :thumbleft: especially as the KE-jet (CIS-E) is a mystery to most garages, let alone owners!

looks a few years old, few batteries if driven occasionally, short runs etc will last more than 4 or 5 winters. A deep discharge test will show up if it's losing the ability to crank the car over, but you usually get a bit of a warning in the winter as the morning temps are low and the battery weaker. If you're starting fine from cold and the battery holds charge I can't see how it would be causing stalling issues, electrical issues tend to show up at high revs, more likely it is fuel or air related, bad injectors at idle, idle air valve, vacuum leaks on inlet and so on.

people live in devon in the winter, I thought it was just for cows

used to be able to get silver paint for it, I could do with some for one bar on my golf, bugged me for years :lol: the Halfords Granville stuff has really bad reviews! to be fair I think it depends on the break, a small scratch might be OK but I don't think it would repair say a 1-2cm torn off piece of element for £2 I might try this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HNHUZ08/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=569136327&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00B2U0BU6&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=0JFDGMZX2H8FDTANB1F9 but 2 weeks from China, by then the frost will have gone :lol:

I've a golf VR6 rack that looks identical to a 4 cylinder corrado rack, if you trawl back over previous forum threads you should find info about people fitting SEAT Ibiza racks to VR's and all sorts, the only issue I'm aware of other than making sure you have the right track rods on the rack and the right number of splines on the input is the ratio (16v mk3 golf, VR6 golf/vento, corrado,Ibiza cupra have fast racks - less turn lock to lock ) is the original Corrado VR racks had an alloy body and are a different manufacturer to the 4 cylinder or golf/vento racks, I'm still not sure why as like I said people have definitely run the steel bodied mk3/seat racks on VR Corrados

how old is the lambda sensor, I'd suspect that given that you say it's OK on cold start and then there's idle probs etc. trace the lambda wiring too check there's no damaged wires and if you replace it get a decent quality one NTK etc not just the cheapest generic sensor you can find as these seem to give lots of trouble too. fiddling with the ignition timing will just make matters worse as the ecu is struggling to compensate and KE jet is pretty limited anyway as there's no pre cat sensor. ISV's cause trouble too but usually limited to idling too high or too low, sticking as the unit gets weak with age as well as gummed up. If you can it would be good to check the other temp sensors are providing a nice curve of resistance against temp and within spec but I'm betting on the lambda

the 9A should run as kjet in limp mode, so I don't see why not, perhaps the electronc control pressure regulator on the 9A needs power too, the part that replaces the WUR from the basic kjet, I'm sure the 9a sprays just the same on cranking, so you could possibly disconnect the starter and turn the ignition on to see if they spray in the cranking position