Yash

Anyone?

Hi, hopefully quick question. Car is is a 1.8 16v KR engine. Does anybody know the exact internal diameter of the rubber vacuum hoses that connect to the more rigid plastic hoses and the T's/Y's, the really small ones that go to the ECU/MFA etc? Having looked through the forum I have seen 3.2mm, 3.5mm and 4mm mentioned. Next question, what is the internal diameter of the hose that runs between the top of the radiator header tank and the top of the radiator? I need to order replacements and want to ensure I order the correct size cotton braided hose. thanks

H&R springs with koni top adjustables. I have this combo on my car and it works well. Not too harsh and provides a nice drop. I used standard vw top mounts but I did upgrade the front wishbone bushes and arb links to powerflex

Ok, I'll let you know when I remove them. The covering is a bit scuffed from them being knocked getting in and out of the car. That is the biggest downside of fitting these, they do take up quite a lot of room. On the plus side the sound so much better than the standard pods.

In a few weeks I will be removing the late style audioscape pods from my corrado. They have been made for 6.5" speakers. Let me know if you can wait and if you are interested.

As per title, set of door cards which I forgot I bought and found in my parents loft. Collection preferred (from SE19) but I am happy to package up for a courier to collect if required. The front two are in excellent condition except for a little bit of lifting on the top edge. The rear right is also in good condition, the rear left has some white marks, not too sure what it is. Also the bottom corner is cracked, but it is still attached. £40.

Sounds good.

Hi, I tried new brushes. Still only getting 11.5 volts

Ideally 90amp. Thanks

Hi, do you have a KR alternator?

I have PM'd you

How many miles has the gearbox done? Any crunches on gearchange? Thanks

hi, is the gearbox available?

Hi, since breaking down last year I was thinking about scrapping the Corrado, too much money being spent on it and constantly things going wrong. But now the weather has got a bit better I feel like I should give it another chance. Basically I was driving along and suddenly the car felt very hesitant like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Then it suddenly cut out. I managed to start it again straight away but could only keep it idling by keeping my foot on the accelerator, as soon as I tried to move off it cut out. I eventually got towed back to my house where the car has sat since. Last week i decided to give it another go. I went to start the car and it ran, for about 1 second. I have checked for fuel and for spark. Spark is fine. I have fuel going to the metering head and I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the ignition. However, I have no fuel spraying from the injectors. I decided it must be the metering head so I bought one off ebay, fitted it and still nothing. No fuel from the injectors. The fuel line that runs down to the warm up regulator has got loads of pressure, the fuel line coming back from the warm up regulator has no pressure at all, fuel was not even dripping out. My question is can a blocked/faulty warm up regulator prevent the flow of fuel to the injectors? My understanding was the warm regulator only controlled pressure during for cold starts, I didn't think it controlled the pressure of fuel the entire time the car is running. Thanks for your help.

Haven't had a chance to try yet. Prob won't be able to do it until the weekend....

thats very true. hmm, should have given this is try today, gonna have to wait till next weekend now..... I havent tried toe starting before, if I put it in gear while being toed won't it jerk the car that is toeing me?

i have got a rs bumper on the front. the mesh covers the toe hook so i cant toe start it unless i attach the toe line to the subframe.......... its def timed up correctly, I have checked it so many times. can't believe the hydraulics are being such a pain, oh well i guess the positive spin is that the valves appear ok.

it isnt easy to turn the engine over, but it doesnt fell any harder or easier then before i removed the head. yes there is spark and fuel. The issue is def with the valves/tappets/oil. If i want to remove the tappets do i just take the cams out and lift out the tappets or is it more complicated. I really didnt want to remove the cams. is it not possible to try and free up the valves by moving them up and down with long nosed pliers or something similar.

Engine is timed up correctly. Does not cough at all. Am unsure if I have got oil pressure. How do you test for oil pressure? Spark plugs are wet and smell of fuel, so they are definately getting fuell

bought the head on ebay from some guy that had it reconditioned by http://www.theengineshop.info/index.html. He sent me the receipt so I assume it is genuine. I have no idea what tappets are inside the head, the guy had done around 2000 miles on it since it was reconditioned so the tappets should be fine. Do you think that because it was off the head for so long that they have somehow seized? Will try calling the engine shop tomorrow.

I took the inlet manifold off and had a look at the valves. none of them looked bent. then i realised the valves that I expected to be open weren't. I turned the engine over by hand and none of the valves were moving. So i took the cam cover off to see if the cam chain had snapped but that was fine. Cams are turning but the valves arent moving. I took a couple of pics but they didnt come out very well. Its as if the valves are stuck. Is this something to do with the tappets? The only valves that were open were the valves for cylinder 3, the same valves that were open when i originally fitted the head (see pic above). Any ideas on what I can do to free up the valves, I don't really want to take the cams out as from reading posts on here it sounds like a bit of a mission to put them back in exactly right. Cylider one passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC00471.JPG[/attachment:36du1a2h] Cylinder two climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00472.JPG[/attachment:36du1a2h] Cylinder three 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00473.JPG[/attachment:36du1a2h] Cylinder four DSC00474.JPG[/attachment:36du1a2h]

my valver (fairly new engine) is a pig to turn over by hand, you really have to swing on the crank pulley bolt and you can feel and hear each cylinder compressing and releasing through the exhaust valves, after one cylinder releases it's easy to turn for 1/4 of a turn until the next cylinder compresses. If you had no compression on all cylinders the starter would spin the engine like a fast spin on a washing machine - no resistance. To turn the engine over by hand i am using a pole on the handle of the ratchet to get a bit more leverage. Its spins exactly how you describe, its hard then its easy, its hard then easy. Maybe the compression tester is dodgy. Toad said it could be oil pressure holding the tappets open, but when the car is being spun on the starter I thought there wouldn't be any oil pressure? The head isn't off at the moment. The pic was taken before i fitted the head. I am planning on taking the head off tomorrow. I just hope when I do take it off that none of the valves are bent. I find it strange that I dont get any compression on all cylinders. I guess that means I have either bent all the intake valves or there is another problem. The guy i bought the head off had done about 2000 miles since it was rebuilt, so I dont think there is a problem with the valve seats. The head was rebuilt by the engine shop. I was told that the guides, seals, tappets were replaced and it was crack tested. He gave me the receipt so i guess I could call them and ask exactly what was done. When I was spinning the engine on the starter with someone spraying easy start into the intake it occasionaly made a popping sound like it was about to fire. I also got someone to slowly turn the distributor housing while i was spinning it just incase the ignition timing was out.

I can hear air movement but am unsure if it is compression or just the piston moving. The gauge on the compression tester did not move at all when we were turning the engine over. Too me it doesnt sound like it turning too fast on the starter, if anything it sounds like its turning a bit slowly but then I cant really remeber what it sounded like before as it was so long ago.....

DSC00322.JPG[/attachment:1pkechty] Not a great pic but this is a pic of the head before it was fitted. Valves look ok, dont they?

I like the sound of this but how do I go about checking oil pressure? Will there be any pressure when the engine isn't running?