Yash

Had the engine pressure tested earlier and the gauge did not move at all, nothing on all cylinders. Mechanic recommended that I take the head off and check that there are no leaks from the valves. What a mission......... :(

I checked the engine timing and everything lines up perfectly. The head came with cams fitted so I think they are lined up perfectly, they look it. The dizzy is about two years old and the spark is strong when grounded against the head. Is there anyway to check the condition of the hall sender? I am guessing that the coil is fine as there is a spark from the dizzy. When the mechanic listened to the engine he thought it sounded like it was turning slowly on the starter (battery fully charged) which led him to believe there is a compression issue. When I took the plugs out they smelt of fuel, so fuel is definitely getting through. I am going to try and get a compression tester tomorrow and test the compression at each cylinder. Corrado92.pdfDSC00435.JPG[/attachment:31vtmitm] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC00436.JPG[/attachment:31vtmitm] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00437.JPG[/attachment:31vtmitm] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00438.JPG[/attachment:31vtmitm] DSC00439.JPG[/attachment:31vtmitm] I tried to take a pic of the timing mark flywheel but it didn't come out, the mark is too small.

Took the rocker cover off this morning and checked all the timing marks, everything is lined up perfectly, I even stuck the oil dipstick down the spark plug hole of cylinder one to ensure that the piston was at tdc. I spoke to the mechanic again and he said the only other thing that he can think of is that the hydraulic tappets haven’t filled up with oil yet and therefore the valves are sticking open/closed and therefore there is no compression. He suggested taking the spark plugs out (so the engine turns over easier), taking the fuse for the fuel pump out (so the pistons don’t get soaked in fuel) and cranking the engine on the starter for ages. Then put it all back together and trying again The head had been sat in my garage from September to December before I fitted it. I also don't know how long it has been sat around for before it was sent to me. What do you guys think? I am willing to try anything at the moment but I also don’t want to burn out the starter. Have any of you heard of this problem with the tappets?

Right, the mechanic popped round this evening, he didn’t bring a compression tester with him however when I turned the engine over he said it sounds to him like there is no compression at all. He recommended whipping the cam/rocker cover off and checking all the timing marks because it could be out 180 degrees. When I put it all together I checked and rechecked the timing due to fear of bending a valve(s) in my shiny new head. The only place where I think I could have made a mistake is when I swapped the cam shaft sprocket from my old head to the new head. Is it possible to put the camshaft sprocket on 180 degrees out? I thought it went on one way and one way only. If this was on incorrectly wouldn’t the valves hit the pistons? Everything else lined up, the o's on the cams were at 3 and 9 o'clock facing each other. The lobes for cylinder one on the two cams were pointing towards each other and upwards (as per pic on pg1). What do you guys think? I may strip it and get him to take a look at it prior to refitting.

the only earth strap i disconnected when i removed the head was the one from the coil to the dizzy.....i reconnected that one. Hall sender is connected. I tried spraying easy start while cranking, did not work :(

ok, I have just tested the injectors and they fine, i lifted the flap switched the ignition on and they sprayed loads of fuel. so i think i can rule out fuel starvation. i also tried advancing and retarding the dizzy housing, which made no difference. The only thing I havent been able to test for is compression, hopefully I'll be able to get a mechanic to test it tomorrow. It just seems strange that it doesnt ever sound like its about to fire......

argh, ok I will give it another try. Shall I try spraying the easy start while someone is cranking the engine? Yes, I have checked for a spark. There is a spark from both coil and distributor. I haven’t tried lifting the flat while spraying the injectors into a bottle. However I did clean the metering head and yes the flap moved smoothly and with a bit of resistance. Do I need to crank the engine to get the injectors to spray with the flap opened or will they spray with the ignition on? Last time I tested them I was cranking the engine. The battery has been in and out of the car so many times the past couple of weeks, don’t think it's too good for the starter either.

Just been out to the garage to give it another try. I sprayed easy start into each spark plug hole, replaced the plugs and tried turning the engine over but it would not fire. I am slowly losing the will to live with it. the engine doesn't even sound like its about to start. I dont have the equipment to carry out a compression test or fuel pressure test. I may try dropping a small amount of fuel into each cylinder tomorrow however i dont think that will start it seeing as easy start did'nt do the trick. There is a garage at the bottom of my road so i will speak to them on Monday, maybe i can get a mechanic to come up to my place with a timing strobe and get his opinion.

I just checked the timing marks and the mark on the top of the cam sprocket lines up with the groove in the rocker cover. I also checked when I was fitting the cam belt that that line on the back of the cam sprocket lined up with the side of the head and the two marks on the cams were at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock. Pic of when i was fitting the head DSC00329.JPG[/attachment:1z0wvq2i] There is resistance but not anymore then I was expecting. Turning it by hand now feels the same as before I removed the old head. The rotor arm is pointing to the ht lead that fires cylinder one when the engine is at TDC. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00347.JPG[/attachment:1z0wvq2i] I have added a link to a video of me trying to start the car earlier. To me it sounds like its lacking fuel. What do you guys think? View My Video

Can you get the timing out by 180 degrees? The distributors go in one way only don't they?

Thanks for the quick response, leads are on correctly as I took the dizzy cap off complete with the leads in their little cable tidy thing. If the distributor is timed incorrectly wouldn’t the car run still but not optimally?

I am need of some help.....again. I managed to source a reconditioned head so two weeks ago I started the task of replacing my old head which was leaking oil through the valve guides and seals. After having a nightmare removing the exhaust manifold I managed to get the old head off. Putting everything back together again was relatively easy, however now it won’t start. I turned the engine over by hand before trying to start it and it turned over without and resistance. It also turns over fine on the starter motor so I am confident that it is timed up correctly. I have a spark from the distributor. The fuel pump primes, I have disconnected the fuel lines to the regulator and I have fuel, I have disconnected the fuel line to the 5th injector and I have fuel. I have pulled the injectors out and I have fuel (although not as much as I was expecting although the car ran fine before pulling the head so I don’t see why the injectors would have suddenly blocked up). I have checked, double checked and triple checked all the air pipes and electrical connections, they are all connected. The ISV buzzes when the ignition is on. Have I missed something? After doing all the work myself I am very reluctant to get a mobile mechanic out to have a look at it.

I’m guessing the clarke rotary tool thing is similar to a dremel? I think I am going to get one of those. Why did you switch to a normal drill for the 8mm bit? Is an 8mm bit too big for a dremel? I think I am going to have to get myself some goggles if I am going to try this. I had enough rust and other crap falling into my eyes earlier, don't fancy getting drill shavings in my eyes.

I have been considering the irwins, I am fairly certain that I will be able to get it on the second nut (in from the right if you are looking at the engine from the front of the car) but I don’t think I will be able to get it on the third nut. There just isn’t or doesn’t appear to be enough room around the manifold, when I first tried to remove it I couldn’t get a ratchet and socket on it, could only access it with a spanner. I have been considering getting this http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/crt40-40pce-rotary-tool-kit/path/17-mini-multi-purpose-power-tools but again I am not if I will be able to get it in the space to cut the nut off

Thanks for the response but unfortunately I don’t have access to a welder, plus it would be pretty tight trying to weld in such a small space

Okay guys I am after some help, desperately. Yesterday I started striping off all the bits from my cylinder head. I managed to get almost everything off except the exhaust manifold. The first six nuts all came off relatively easily, they were six that are in the easy to reach places. The two underneath the 2nd and 3rd outlet are ruined. It looks like someone has previously tried getting the manifold off and has rounded the nuts. I have tried banging on an 11mm socket but that hasn’t worked because I can’t get enough swing on the hammer. I read yesterday someone trying a nut splitter on it so this morning I went to machine mart to get one but it wont go on, there just isn’t enough room to get it on. I then decided to try and cut it off with a hacksaw but again there isn’t enough room to move the hacksaw. How am I meant to get it off?? I spent about 3 hours yesterday and 2 hours this morning trying to get these two nuts off. What do you guys recommend I do? I’m not fussed about snapping the stud as the head is going to get binned anyway. I have read about separating the manifold from the down pipe but I cannot see how I am going to be able to do this, only 2-3 of the nuts look accessible and I don’t want to start removing more bits, as it is I am going to struggle remembering where all the bits I have taken off already go. Thanks in advance,

please could you put me down for an 4+4 one if its not too late, when do you think these will be ready?

I had a similar problem when i had a 1.3 golf. Is he running a separate battery for the amps? the problem I had was the split charge relay was wired incorrectly, so it was constantly staying open. Therefore the main battery was constantly charging the amp battery. I also had an alternator problem with it, think i changed the voltage regulator and it was ok. Was a cheap fix, well cheaper then a new alternator anyway. I think I may have a 1.3 alternator in the garage, pm me if interested.

http://www.tuning.co.uk/rieger/ VW Corrado R-RS Rear Apron

Thanks for the updated list. Does anybody have a list of vag garages that will honour the discount. Croydon vag havent heard of the parts club. Even getting CCGB disount is difficult....and im in there a couple of times a month. Everytime they say the same thing, "Whats CCGB discount?"

This thread will be useful............. http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... on+rebuild

This is now sorted. Ended up being the fuel pump housing. There was a crack at the top of housing and fuel was leaking down around the seal making it look like it was leaking from there.

Thanks to m3evo for the VR6 Top mounts. Arrived very quickly.

I bought the new seal (£6.60 for a seal is ridiculous), managed to get the fuel line off the fuel pump easily, screws also came off relatively easily. Took out the fuel pump, cleaned the sieve, put the new seal on the pump, put everything back together, started the car up and no leak. I was so happy everything went so well. However, after leaving the car running for a few minutes i noticed petrol starting to drip again from the same area. So I tightened the screws a little more. started the car up, it was fine for about 2-3 minutes then it started to leak again. Tried to tighten the screws a little more but there’s no way they are tightening up anymore. Started the car again and it was exactly the same, was fine for the first 2-3 minutes then it starts to drip. I also noticed that its dripping from around where one of the fuel lines (circled) goes into the housing. Anybody got any ideas? Do I need a new pump housing? or could the return valve be blocked? The car runs fine so petrol is running smoothly to the engine, the housing just doesn’t seem to be able to cope with the pressure.

thanks bcstudent, guess thats gonna be a fun job for saturday morning. *Edit* I dont have access, was searching earlier and found an old post (think it may have been one of yours) with that diagram in it. Has been very helpful, i never new the fuel pump set-up was so complex.........need to source a copy of the parts database as some point. Saying that i think most pages are posted on this forum. lol