virtuoso23

Anyone know of any adverse effect of running a VR without a Lambda sensor? Isn't the lambda ignored on wide open throttle? Thanks

Why is that? Isn't the lambda ignored at wot though

Hi Dox, I've ordered a new one now anyways. Was just concerned about running the car in the meantime without a lambda as im using it daily atm as my TT has gone poop, so looking for a new car. Would you expect any adverse effects running it as until the new lambda comes Much appreciated

Hi Keyo, don't worry about this, that's never been a problem :smug:

Hi Dox, so it will be running permanently rich to protect it's self? Strange it got great fuel economy, although it did feel a little flat at low revs

Can a ODB1 Distributor based VR6 run fine without a lambda sensor?? Sorry if this has been answered elsewhere, searched through posts but couldn't find what I was looking for. I have just fitted a Stainless Power Sprint exhaust yesterday, I picked up used for a great price and it's in excellent condition, the original exhaust has lasted the life of the car, 27 years but was pin holed throughout. It's a bit naughty as it's designed to fit the VR6 without the cat in place. The existing lambda sensor was pretty much welded in the original exhaust so couldn't remove and fit it. Luckily the used Power Sprint exhaust has the old lambda sensor still fitted minus the wiring, so i installed it all which fitted beautifully but with a disconnected lambda. My guess is it only needs the lambda to protect the original cat and for emmission control. I took the car to work and back today and it got the best MPG readout iv'e ever had! Oh and my god the original system weighs more than a mountain Thanks

I think i've found them. Don't you love the internet!!:dance:

This is avaliable on Amazon luckily, however; do I need to by a whole new unit or just attempt to fix that fuse if I can? Maybe wire in a inline fuse 30amp I think it is, but that would look messy wouldn't it lol.

Thing is the fuse just looks like a strip of metal, no casing and I can't seem to find something suitable fuse wise anywhere. J-REG Photo is my old G60 so ignore that. Car is a 1993 VR6 (Early Distributor Model)

Hi all, so the temps in the VR have been rising. Note, engine has been rebuilt with all new switches ect The fans haven't been kicking in. Figured out the likely culprit is this! I'm guessing this is a fuse and a beefy one at that. Can I replace this or do I have to replace the whole unit? Any other input would be great Thanks

I rebuilt the engine myself with help from the old man here and there. Once the rebuild was finished I just cranked the engine over without fuel or ignition until oil pressure was good. Once all connected it fired up on the first turn of the key, tappets ticked for about 10 minutes and since then I've never heard anything. It runs smooth as butter now.

Finally got my VR back on the road after a complete timing tensioner failure, last year. It bent two valves and had no compression. It wasn't much of a surprise, original chains on 194,000 miles, the engine looked it's age and everything needed replacing. First trip out and an update. And now were back in action! https://previews.dropbox.com/p/thumb/AAYwrJr3-_YhOJMAnn5_qKhNsHznyNcvJ-Vc310E-cpQSIVzDCIjXZDAv_RqAeo_BpHpdLw-apaa9JRSMuNs4SP_8IlOg4hXYsUXsc2X2OELg7afk-yKlm4EhTekFpRrb7qWZfswSgHb7sYVGPDTrv_oagEOUBwqBUrbhxnQ5sPdAq7ao4wwittIMwplebF3eHn0rRorMEav0WjrGUObKEDDpTk_Kvd5k7BSsTYm_PkzvnyitUiv3CHcAx72kQ5x12M03QIOUbvKkxltokynRmLHsn6VePJL2PKg9a3Nww4jnC4eQIUp1448eDfsrafIvTc58IvRwKvDIfsQvJDTV6KkqRyhlLE_Sex_ZegquGG13b3K2Qcmiwpeme-ZY3YNADsD761yolgaRAJu4T8zp4J0/p.jpeg?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3

I never did find a decat pipe, the only company that I could find was Jetex but these are designed to fit with their own systems/ Probably could be modified though. Still running the standard exhaust, can't believe it's 26 years old and still fine. Madness!

Hi mate, No trimming needed on the pipe just on the 45 degree bend a slight trim on the single piece extension hose for the MAF plug to reach. [/img] Hope that helps

No worries mate, Upload a pic here when you've fitted and admired the new shiny intake.

Hi mate, Any will do so long as it's 76mm See link below: That's where I got mine from. Be aware it's a b*** to get on the trottle body, but certainly isn't coming off https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MEH186P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hi Mate, I did indeed go ahead with this. Added the finishing touch to my rebuild. I just purchased the Aluminum intake on it's own and then two 76mm silicone extensions. Upon fitting I realised that one of the 76mm extensions was not going to give correct fitment at the throttle body end so therefore I had to buy a 45 degree elbow which I then trimmed down so that the aluminium pipe would clear the strut tower, enable correct length down towards the air feed and allow the Maf connecter plug to reach the MAF. Really works great though and sound the nuts with my cone filter. I bought the largest length filter I could find. Just to note, for the ISV connection, remove the factory plastic adapter from the hose and push straight onto the pipe. https://servi[ATTACH=CONFIG]95739[/ATTACH]

Yes I did add a smear of oil to each bolt prior to installing. Then as per factory guide line followed stage 1 then stage 2. The guide say's to go from stage 2 to 180 degree or two 90 degree turns, but thats from 60Nm. I'll be going from 70Nm, so wouldn't going the full 180/ 2 x90 be a tad over spec or yield......

Many thanks for your advise Si, good information and feel more confident going forward now. I will indeed mark the bolts as you have said. Fingers crossed Will update this weekend after attempting final stage

No doubts on the extra torque, 10nm across all 20 bolts after stage 2 at 60nm. I'll give them all a 176 degree turn then

I'll give this ago then. I'll do a 90 degree, then the final, maybe on the last go in at 80-85 degree

Hey guys, yes I can confirm he went an extra 10nm from stage 2 at 60nm in sequence, hes not inexperienced. I have gone over all bolts and to be fair to him all of them click exactly at 70nm. Maybe I could go two 80 degree turns instead of the two final 90 degree turns.....

Surely an extra 10nm is less than 1 x 180 degree turn or two final 90 degree turns...... The engine is out of the car, and everything is timed up now Rebuilt head New gasket etc Can I get away with removing all bolts in sequence, throw them away and install new bolts without removing the head gasket?

Ok so, put my rebuilt head on the VR, Using standard torque to yield bolts Torqued to: Stage 1 40nm Left for a day Stage 2 60nm Left for another day Come to do the 3rd stage which is two 90 degree..... walked in the garage and found my dad using the torque wrench on the head, I screamed....What are you doing..He say's torquing them up!!! Anyhow after a lot of arguing I find instead of doing two 90 degree turns he's torqued them all up to a further 70nm He say's there good! I say we don't bloody know now! Question is what do I do?? Are they past yield point, or below yield point? Do i back them all off in sequence on re do to spec? Or do I just give them all a 90 degree turn.... Stressing me out? Half tempted to bin the lot

Still interested in the rail you were offering......