Daveproyoyoyo

Saw my first Rado in months today. A green Storm parked up at Mitsubishi dealership in Barnes Earlier this afternoon. Didn't look like it was for sale, possibly someone who worked there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Standard air box for a VR6. It's a little dusty and some sort of peel on it but otherwise in good condition. It's an air box, what more can be said £50 posted.[ATTACH=CONFIG]84758[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]84759[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]84760[/ATTACH]

Retrimmed my Entire headlining a few weeks ago. Material I bought from eBay and the adhesive spray I bought from Hobby craft. It took a day to do it and looks totally spot on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have this same job to do too. Does anyone have any experience with POR15 instead of hammerite? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this sold yet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Spray-Max-2K-Clearcoat-400ml/dp/B003VDXZM8 This is the 2 part clear I used in the end. It has a base which injects hardener into the clear like the pros use in body shops and makes it fully UV proof. You must leave it to completely cure before you do anything, don't even tough it. Really make sure you obey the waiting times on the rattle cans too. If you get impatient and spray too soon, the thinners in the tint or the lacquer may not have fully evaporated and can cause all sorts of problems like micro blisters, wrinkles, or severe orange peel. Once it has fully cured over night you can begin flatting back the lacquer with a high grain sand paper to remove the orange peel. Maybe 1200 grit to begin with followed by higher and higher grits until you reach 2500 or 3000. As you go you will see the lowest points clear as day as a guide to how much lacquer to sand back. Avoid the edges as the lacquer will be thinnest there, I really mean that one as I've had to start again because of that! Once you have all of it flatted back to 2500/3000 grit, you can begin with a polish. I personally highly rate the 3M Perfect It 3 stage polishes but they are pricey. I think Meguiars do a medium cut and a fine cut polish that's has good reviews too. Good luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I couldn't find the thread but I don't think it's Orange LEDs that you want. I have white LED clusters like the one in this link but with more LEDs and brighter too. Sorry I can't find the link for the exact ones I have but these are similar. http://www.hdtvcar.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=47811&currency=GBP Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's odd, I use super brights and they flash orange nicely. Even passed an MOT with them! I vaguely remember someone saying they need to be a specific type of LED, I'll see if I can find the thread. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've done this before 3 times now and each time the colour faded after about 6 months. After speaking to a mate who's a painter he said the reason is that my clear coat wasn't UV proof and that I could only get that from a 2k clear like Spray Max. They have been spot on ever since. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries!

Oh I should have mentioned that I tried plastic dip but the closest colour I could get came out looking like brushed aluminium. It would look spot on on the Corrado and VR6 badge as that already has that kind of effect but for the 2 VW badges front and rear, it really needed to be almost a mirror finish. My vinyl was £5.99 from eBay and there was plenty! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It was time consuming and there are a few small folds on the outside edge which you can see in the photos but I think it looks pretty good in the end. The fiddly bit was cutting out lots of different shapes for the inside parts of the badge. [ATTACH=CONFIG]84560[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]84561[/ATTACH]

So I've been looking at my rear VW badge for ages thinking how tired it looks now all the chrome effect stuff has finally peeled off. After spending a long time looking for one in good condition, I finally gave up and thought about using a chrome vinyl wrap. So I gave it a go and after a few goes I have ended with this. I think its not perfect close up but from a couple of feet away you wouldn't notice the imperfections at all. http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/Dave_Protheroe/media/6_zps6eqverxh.jpg.html [ATTACH=CONFIG]84559[/ATTACH]

1) The little Karmann badge on the gear stick surround. Mine has fallen off and left just the silver coloured part underneath. 2) Passenger side air vent closest to the door has lost the wheel for opening and closing the vent. Not sure if I need just the wheel or the whole unit. Not sure if there are different colours, the interior is grey but this vent is black. 3)Front ash tray in black. The mechanism is totally broken and is held in with blue tack at the moment :-) 4)The rear ash tray in grey. 5) My drivers side bolster closest to the door though is still in an absolute state, especially noticeable now I have taken it all to bits. The foam has completely collapsed and the material has completely worn through beyond saving. I noticed that the bolster for the right hand side of the passenger seat is identical to this one when I took it apart and wondered if anyone maybe had the foam and grey cover by any chance? I know the foam is obsolete and I'm not certain but the other grey interior Corrados I have seen seem to mostly share the same material on the bolsters, you lot probably know better than I though. I just thought that a passenger side bolster would have a lot less wear on that side as you wouldn't be dragging your arse over that bit like on the drivers side.

Brilliant thanks for that, I'll get on and get some. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I already have Mk4 callipers fitted at the rear with a pair of Goodridge braided lines, why do I need two sets of I have them fitted? There is a chap on here that made me new hard lines for my rear beam, here is the link. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?53172-Genuine-vw-corrado-brake-lines-remanufactured Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Need to do this job myself in a couple of weeks. Where did you guys get the braided lines from? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was just looking at that one on the forum. The wheel arch looks rotten through and would definitely need new metal welding in there. I would be worried about other areas in a similar state to that hidden under paint that haven't reared their ugly head yet. Sean is definitely right, wait and do check one out with someone who knows them inside out before buying one.

He hasn't really said much at all in his advert, just talked mainly about the mods he has done which I'm not a big fan of, I prefer an OEM car or subtle mods. That's all personal taste though. I'm not getting a good feeling from this ad. He hasn't mentioned anything about the mechanicals of it, every Corrado will have some issues no matter how slight. All he has mentioned really is that its fast which doesn't sit well for me and that the car's spoiler works.... The car is also for £4K which is a lot for a car with no MOT, questionable mechanical condition, and is currently listed a Nissan Navara with 82,000k on the clock. Also no photos of the engine bay or interior. Just my 2p.

Yeah sure thing, I'm away at a festival from Wednesday but will be pretty free next week. I'll take you out for a spin in it and you can have a good look around. Apologies in advance for the state of the interior, it needs some attention which is planned for a few weeks time when the schools break up for the summer (I'm a teacher you see) My number is 07515 342042, hopefully meet up next week some time.

haha yeah literally just round the corner, my brother lives on Lovedean lane. Small world eh... Personally I haven't had any issues at all with my VR6, although mine isn't a daily driver, just a weekend toy. I've heard of them well into the 200K miles area still on original chains and performing well. Have you driven a VR6 before? I've read a lot of threads about Vtech engines vs VR6s and think it comes down to preference really. I've been in my mates S2000 and although I know on paper it performs better, the lack of low end torque and the sensational VR6 noise didn't cut it for me but each to their own.

I'm in Clanfield by the way.

I have seen pretty decent ones pop up from time to time for the £3k mark. These cars are getting rarer and rarer these days and good ones even more so. Personally I always think when buying a car like this its always better to wait until the right one comes up. Was it a 16v you were specifically after or are you looking at all models? Is it going to be your daily driver?

Hmmmm, personally any rust at all puts me off as you can never be sure how far the rust goes without getting the paint off. However I do appreciate that its very tough to find a 20 year old car with absolutely no rust at all. Its a difficult one to call, on the one hand it is always good to have a contingency budget left over to fix any niggles, on the other, paying more may get you a much better example in the first place that will have less niggles. Have you looked one over yet? You are just down the road from me by the sounds of it, if you fancy popping over to have a look at a good one you would be more than welcome.

I have no experience of the 16v I'm afraid, only what I have read on here. Body work is what I have found to be the most expensive bit about owning my Corrado, it really is worth trying to find the best possible example you can I reckon especially if you have a budget of 3k. I bought mine a few years ago now and it was absolutely spotless rust wise but I hunted around and waited until I found one like that, it wasn't easy. By small rust spots where are they and what sort of size are we talking?