craigowl
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Everything posted by craigowl
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Recent heavy rain coupled with strong winds is most likely culprit IMO if your heater is OK. My daughter's Golf 4 got a paddling pool at the driver's floor after such weather (and being parked on a slope).
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A good flush out like one's bowels get with colonic irrigation could be helpful, I suppose. :lol: When the "Guardian" newspaper visited a posh health farm to undergo that and write an article, after some treatment the paper's photographer allegedly passed a marble he had swallowed as a 6-year old. :gag:
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Lucky but costly escape... UPDATED PICTURES
craigowl replied to the delta force's topic in General Car Chat
That is worrying. Call me trusting, but how could a proper MOT check and or service not have revealed corrosion/wear sufficient for a robust component like a wishbone to fail like that? -
lol or Airhead (gender unspecified!): - "Er.........., darling, I've had a small parking accident."
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Well done, bonny lad. 8) Bet this car shifts its @rse a bit swifter than does them magpies at the moment!
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Classic green/Cream leather Storm. My handbook wallet is black. I am certain it will be the original.
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Water pump is at left side as you face VR6, gogsboy.
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An automatic? Eeeeewwwwww!!!!! Some cars should just never be allowed to have auto boxes. :lol: Say that when you ain't driven for seven weeks 'cos of a busted left ankle, man! :lol: I used to agree with your sentiments, but it is always a revealing experience to view things from another perspective. (PS - Only pulling your leg - I have been having negative thoughts since plaster cast came off and damned ankle is still a bit swollen. Still, doc says fluid can take up to six months to disperse, and I would not have been taking C out in all this salt and frost we have had, anyway.) :reindeer: joker:
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Maybe his Yank grandad gave him the idea. Always had a taste for loud styling these guys! :)
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Allow me to introduce myself: Torsten@53i-styling
craigowl replied to Torsten's topic in Members Gallery
8) You devil, Torsten! :lol: -
Coil pack will be cracked if it is still the original. Many of us have had to replace this component. If it is cracked, damp road conditions - aggravated by salt on roads, by the way - will cause a misfire due to arcing. To test coilpack, raise bonnet and with engine idling, use a plant mister to spray on coilpack. If it is not sound, you will hear the engine faltering and if it is dark enuf you may even see the electricity arcing about on the outside surface of the component. Worth a check, anyway.
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When system is working OK, many of us run on the open road with VR6 showing water temp only 70-80C. I think mine rises to 100 or so in traffic in summer half of year. (Not using it this weather). Heater blower only working on speed 4 is separate issue, I would say. It is to do with rheostat/resistor thingy needing replaced. I have not had overheating with my C, but have replaced parts in cooling system lest they did pack in with age.
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Oh, well, that's all useful stuff, guys. 8) Our indispensable 17-year old Pug 205 gld keeps needing stuff replaced every month or so now, so I may be in the market for a small, quality workhorse soon. I would go for Honda Jazz diesel - but the muppets ain't had the sense to put one out yet. :)
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Is it a VR6? If so, it is one hot m0ther. :lol:
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Clearly, some old mix can remain if you do not drain from lowest point and also do not flush/backflush system. Flushing is recommended because sediment and solids will be removed allowing coolant to flow freely and probably preventing blockages later on. I believe passageways in radiator are narrow and can be blocked relatively easily.
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Interesting post, crasher. :shock: Full of good news, too! :lol: I remembered when reading, that I found the brown wire adrift shortly after acquiring my C in 2002 and soldered it back - with great difficulty - I recall. What is the flash point of our fuel, then?
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Nice, mean, minimalist look to your Corrado. 8) I would prefer no tinted orangy light thang - but I am very old! :lol:
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This pipe carries nasty, toxic and oily crankcase fumes. Sometimes the oil that condenses in here splits the rubber pipe. I am not an engine expert, but would expect that pressure when you have head gasket failing could exacerbate the situation.
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Not 100% sure of what you are worried about, but I would say no. You can drain coolant from any lowish hose, but "crack pipe's" little screw cock :lol: is probably ideal according to manufacturers because it is at lowest point of cooling system. You can flush whole system out with garden hose, too, when you have got most/all of coolant drained off. Try flushing out using a low point then a high point of entry for hose and a fairly strong jet (heater on, too). You will get wet and cold but it is worthwhile. 8)
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Not exactly what you describe, Mystic Storm ? but, try this thread - some of it may help. You will almost certainly find mud/dry earth/grit around the filler neck up in the wheel arch. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63511&hilit=rust+trap
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VR6 rebuild - Downpipe and exhaust tacked up
craigowl replied to nemesis360's topic in Members Gallery
:( OK. Maybe someone else will get it.........or maybe not. -
VR6 rebuild - Downpipe and exhaust tacked up
craigowl replied to nemesis360's topic in Members Gallery
Nice alternative flying machine, Nembo! Flash paint job, though, and not pc, even for no rice. -
Well done, Cazza. I had to reassemble mine when I had the front of the car off a few weeks ago. What an infernal (but cunning) device the thing is. I found that you certainly have to pull in all the slack in the wire to get the bonnet to jump open smartly when you pull the lever in the car. I think if it is slack and/or kinked on first fitting it could stretch further - just enough to mean that the bonnet will not open at some time in the future. One thing that surprised me was how strong the inner cable seemed to be considering some on the forum reported it as having snapped. :? Did they really mean that?
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"Scarlett and a Corrado - does it get any better?" Well, it does actually, Glenn. :) How about "Scarlett & Glenn" or even better "Scarlett and me"? :D
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I changed water pump (VR6) a few weeks ago, but sheared the rear engine mount bolt when replacing it and tightening up to specified torque, so had extra expense of £121.82 for garage to fix that. VW say the bolts are "one use only" so I would prefer to replace rear engine mount and bolt at same time if I were doing it again. Part no on my invoice is 1HO 992 262K for "bonded rubber mount (£65.14 incl VAT) and N90 553 202 for double hex bolt (£1.16). Others on forum got away with bolt problem, though. You will, too, if you are lucky, but I would always feel unhappy about a stressed bolt being replaced.