jekel

Cheers yeah that's the one, that's saved a bit of searching and head scratching. In fact I tried unplugging that blue wire plug altogether on the green VR6 I've got here and the car still started and ran which surprised me

No mate, the one on car at moment, which may be spare, is bog standard but I have a seperate Superchip which never fitted to any ECU spare also. The other ECU I have is remapped, for decat car etc., programmable with a piggy back chip on it. Was thinking if turns out is spare and you want maybe you'd be thinking about removing cat in future and you've a chip there ready. Don't think there's any real benfit in chipping unless cat removed and probs. induction, that's what people's saying and reckon they're right, when first removed cat no massive improvement, when remapped noticieable improvement. Mine always passed MOT emissions fine with no cat on it too, even passed the day before took the engine out despite fact suspect couple of valves a bit worn, though that said other than that engine was mint, probs still better than 90% out there, MOT man thought I was mad when said that engines getting replaced tomorrow

Couple more things, looking round another VR6 I have here the blue exciter wire from alt, one that connects to 1 pin plug at front, 1 blue wire in 2 out, the second wire on this VR6 goes into loom by look of it, on mine it goes nowhere, looks like been cut after few inches, not ssure we did that mind, could this cause the prob? What's that wire do? 2nd and this is weird, on my non starter when you put lights on and flash main beam with ignition on the fuel pump primes for a second, like when you first turn ignition on!!! This mean anything to anyone? Had all lights disconnected, obvious when front off, most were factory plugs connections etc. think he had to cut a couple. Cheers

Sounds like might be your immobiliser but I'll keep you posted if get mine fired and therefore have spare, going back to your original question but tell you what I deffo have spare when think a superchip for the ECU, it's one of the generic one's not mapped individually to my car, but is for a Corrado VR6 with CP ECU, and specifically tailored for running with no cat and induction kit, bought never used, got car rolling road remapped instead but that ain't cheap

We fitted new engine and got it fired up, after some considerable effort, ran for few seconds (radiator) not connected, then hooked up radiaitor etc., put front end on, ran again for a while, running really sweet but would'nt hold idle, now won't start at all. Was very weak period spark when checked leads, now none at all. Every time it did start was a real effort. Seems like had very weak intermittent spark now none at all, something spark related was "struggling" now gave uop the ghost seems to me. Putting front end on, coincidental

As soon as mine is fired up and running mate, hopefully on weekend. It's a totally reconned engine and have all sensors, coilpack etc. etc. from my old engine which were all brand new within last few months, I'm sure it's something small and simple. Both ECU's have been running on the old engine within last month and both were fine, the standard one is currently on the new engine which won't spark properly but may or may not be ECU related. Soon as I know I have a good working spare I'll message you.

Not sure how much difference makes on standard car but I was told makes noticeable difference if you have cat removed and non standard induction, especially cat, and it did, even on engine running with poss. couple of worn valves, and not at best. I'd say I have a spare and it's non immobiliser but if you luck at Lilfuzzers post yesterday, new engine not firing, the standard ECU now has question mark over it. If sort and turns out both ECU's fine, I'll have spare and give ya a shout.

Just put new engine, box and clutch in mine, the old clutch was working ok but did look well past it's best when took out, think was bout 2 inch from floor bite point, I report back if changes with new clutch (when get this new engine fired and running, see engine bay post, hopefully on weekend)

P.S. old engine and new both coilpack VR6's, all sensors from old engine few months old at most so now on new one. Are any of the sensors different on years of coilpack VR6's, all fitted fine and looked identical. Old engine a 94 VR6 OBD1 (Think all Corrado's OBD1?) new engine don't know but is recon engine and sounded sweet as a nut when did fire, what did see cams, chains are clearly brand new. ECU and my spare are CP from memory for the 94, no immobiliser, standard one in at mo, remapped one is spare, both ran perfect on old engine within last few weeks.

Hello, this is my car and engine, my thinking is basically as above, I'll stick my spare ecu in on weekend, but if not that how do we check from there to plugs. Coilpack is 2 months old, as are leads and plugs but already tried spares for both anyway. Have spare 109 relay and already tried that. Second on my list would be crank sensor plug-lead on loom side, I put a new plug on it while back, wires frayed at plug end, looks fine, but maybe we nipped lead putting engine in, was damn close on that side. Anyway of checking without cutting out insulation and checking join (would be pig due to where joined, heatshrinked and wrapped). Anyone near Durham got Vagcom? Engine has fired, ran sweetly but would'nt hold idle, now no spark on any leads. Cheers

Hello, this is my car and engine, was gonna post question myself, just bit more info. Have spare 109 relay and fuel pump relay tried both. Every sensor on old engine was new within last few months, new coilpack etc. Has fired and was sweet as a nut but would'nt hold tickover, now no spark. Reconned engine now in, mechanically seems perfect, got few hundred miles on it only. Have spare ecu will be trying on weekend. 2nd on my list of suspects would be crankshaft sensor lead (the loom side plug) I had to put a new plug on it while back soldering wires onto original lead, as wires at plug end totally frayed, any way of checking with a meter rather than stripping that lead back totally to check which would be a pig of job due to where it's joined (from outside looks ok, insulation not broken, heatshrinked and wrapped, but VR6 engine and box was a tight fit getting in, especially on the side that lead goes, maybe we nipped it. Any other possibilites we ain't thought off? (We've also tried a spare coilpack, leads, but both leads and coilpack on mine like 2 months old anyway). Cheers. Any electronics wizzes that are passing Chris's in Durham feel free to drop in, all info. greatly received.

Yep did that today, sweet as a nut, sounds and runs beautiful

Cheers, was thinking along those lines unless hear the diesel method is required

Hello, as title really. Putting in a new VR6 engine, box and clutch. Was fully reconned just over a year ago, did few hundred miles then taken out car and stood for a year, not been used. Me and Chris (Lilfuzzer) who's putting it in, had good look at and does look like reconned as said, as far as we can tell, still got engine builders marks, dates on etc. and everything can see looks new. As it's not ran for a year any specific start up procedure before first firing? Heard of some pouring diesel directly into cylinders via plug holes, turning over by hand (without plugs for fear of hydrolocking, then crank without plugs to spit it out, then fire it up (presumably shortly followed by plug and oil change). This or any other start up tips/procedures needed or is this process for ones that's stood for many, many years. It already turned over quite freely by hand. The engine previously ran fine I'm told, but previous owner was trying a VR6 conversion from 4 pot and never hooked up all sensors and electrics fully/correctly so presume never ran 100%. (Mines a VR6 getting new engine, not a conversion and every sensor, coilpack etc. etc. is new on it. Old engine actually ran perfect bar a slight semi misfire at times which I suspect was a valve or guide starting to wear) and a new engine, clutdch and box never going to do any harm.