jekel

Hello, as title really, bought some new Bosch EV6 injectors for my VR6, cars had new engine, new everything really, so only thing not brand new, on a bit of a punt. There 267 cc per min at 3 bar, over 300 at 4 bar, from memory, the 267 is close to but bit more than standard VR6 depending who you listen to. At 4 bar was too rich, put in a 3 bar regulator had in garage from a Golf GTi, from memory, loads of VW use them, works perfectly, performance up, fuel consumption through the roof. Old injectors were cleaned fairly recently, might be worth a try for anyone. There lot easier to get hold of than new originals. My car's got new engine, decatted, BDA Carbon intake, performance exhaust. Have exact part numbers at home somewhere if anyone interested.

"VW/Bremi standard are 10 mm's " - sorry typo meant standard or 8 mm's

It's normally the quality of the leads, cheaper ones push up and move inside the metal holders and will never fit properly. Only ones that fit and work properly are VW/Bremi, Magnecor and Dubsport Race leads, none cheap but all worth it, Dubsports 10mm Race leads are the best, tricky to fit, I had to adapt one of 2 lead tools I've got especially, the metal collars are longer and fatter, but worth it. VW/Bremi standard are 10 mm's are easiest to fit at least as good as Magnecor. Bite the bullet and get one of above, be cheaper in long run.

I've just fitted new driver side and kept passenger side on for reference, the join should be exactly level with the rear most part of the door pocket/holder (thing you keep your sunglasses in etc, whatever it's called).

What type of leads were fitted, the most common cause of misfires in my experience on VR6's is poor quality leads and or been misfitted. Only ones that work are proper VW/Bremi or top quality aftermarket, Dubsports or Magnecor (Dubsports 10mm's are best) no cheap but worth it and MUST use the correct tool every time. I'd check them first and invest in the tool.

Don't suppose anyones got any good KONI rear adjustables want to sell do they? Or similar maybe but really need to be adjustable as just put new ones on front and adjusted up to preety much firmest setting. Don't need springs or anything. New fronts showed rears past best, just about to buy new rears but ya never know, somebody might have a couple sitting in garage/shed

Messaged you bout KONI's and TPS but did'nt get reply, maybe you did'ny see it so bought some new KONI fronts, as my springs are fine, still want TPS if you've still got. I could also do with new KONI rears now, new fronts showing rears past best, but doubt you want to split

Hello do rear from a Golf MK2 fit Corrado VR6, or just MK3. Only need shocks springs are fine, looking for Koni Adjustables for rear, just go new ones for front, and a mates got a new set for a MK2 Golf GTi he never used.

Change the front knock sensor when engine out and doing oil cooler, doable with engine in, but have to remove oil cooler to do it anyway, take 5 mins with engine out.

Just decat it, the very best sports cat is not as good as no cat, it's still restricting it. A VR6 in good condition should fly through the emissions test at MOT without any CAT. Doesn't need a CAT, for age of car, just needs to get under the emissions limit. My old engine with flew through 2 years on trot, third year still passed, just, despite having at least 2 worn valve guides (was actually taking to have new engine fitted next day). Spend the money you save on having it remapped, without remap won't notice huge difference, with remap very noticeable. Ideally couple with a good induction system too. If can't pass emissions without CAT engine isn't running properly or very worn in which eventinvest your money in resolving that would be my advice. P.S. My old CAT is in garage, perfect nick, can't see me ever needing it now got brand new engine in so if anybody is desperate for one and can pick up (South Shields) make me an offer.

. b Which 2 are you missing? I've got some red Bremi's, can't remember if got full set and couple of spares or 1 or 2 short of full set. Only used for bout a month and moved on to 10mm Race Leads. Think the Bremi's are 8 or 8.5 mm's from memory, very rare, but still fit in holders, tightly. I'll have proper look in garage when have chance, had quite a few very good leads experimented a bit before went for the 10mm's Race Dubsports think they are, and only bought them since. Bremi/VW are second best in my experience, Magnecors were disappointing. The one's with holes in sleeves are for later Golf VR6's, they are different, they can be fitted just but very tight in the holes, their fatter, would'nt recommend, and you'll need a new or adpated tool to fit them. I had to make a special tool to fit the 10 mm ones, and their not quite as fat sleeves.

Hello, there should be a small gap to left, when off car or at rest whatever, it'll open the other way when running on car and needed but won't do this just by turning ignition on I'm pretty sure, it'll only start working when car running, idea of it is to stop the car dying when first come off throttle which VR6 like to do, it doesn't govern the idle as such just literally stabilises it think I'm right in saying. I had that error message once and pretty sure was nothing to do with ISV, it might be the one that always comes up if car not running which is crank sensor or one of the other sensors, someone with Vagcom on here will tell you or just google the error code/message and ya'll find it. One more thing check the silencer the foam can break down and try to get into ISV, had one where a sizable piece of foam was holding the ISV open at all times, luckilly did'nt get past ISV to engine. I removed all foam from silencer, and unless it's a brand new one personally I'd do the same. I've ran quite happilly without any silencer on another engine.

You still got the Koni's and TPS?

I've had all those tyres bar the Bridgestones. Just put a new set of Toyo Proxes on and very very impressed, amazing in dry, even better than remembered, best I've had, OK in wet, steer clear of the Conti's be my advice, Dunlop Sportracs pretty good, can't offer an opinion on the Bridgestones. Additionally on my last set of Toyo's got a "flat" one day and tyre did#nt deform 1 mm, sidewalls on them or so stiff happily holdsd wait of a Corrado, was front too from memory, and it's a VR6, changed it but sure could have happily drove home if had to.

Thanks that would be great

My clutch was feeling not quite right yesterday, annoying as got a new clutch, gearbox, and both cylinders, and when checked the plastic pipe connector thing that the pipe your talking about connects on to, on the, 2 month old, master cylinder has sheared right off. Amazingly clutch was still working. Was a TRW too, not cheap. Luckilly I kept the old master cylinder as it's fine, just seemed worthwhile renewing everything so extracting the connector thing from that, as everything else bang on. Don't suppose anyone has an old knackered master cylinder with an intact plastic connector pipe lying around do they, that wouldn't mind extracting and sending the plastic connector to me, then I'll have a fully functioning spare clutch masrter too? Will be bit stiff but heat up with hairdryer and they'll come out.

Funny enough my clutch was feeling not quite right yesterday, annoying as got a new clutch, gearbox, and both cylinders, and when checked the plastic pipe connector thing that the pipe your talking about connects on to, on the, 2 month old, master cylinder has sheared right off. Amazingly clutch was still working. Was a TRW too, not cheap. Luckilly I kept the old master cylinder as it's fine, just seemed worthwhile renewing everything so extracting the connector thing from that, as everything else bang on. Don't suppose anyone has an old knackered master cylinder with an intact plastic connector pipe lying around do they, that wouldn't mind extracting and sending the plastic connector to me, then I'll have a fully functioning spare clutch masrter too? Will be bit stiff but heat up with hairdryer and they'll come out.

Hello, the blue temp sensor is at front of engine just to right and lower than intake manifold where the 6 pipes curl round if know what I mean. There's 3 yellow, blue and black, can't miss them. The TPS is atached to side of throttle body, left side from front, electrical 3 pin plug on it, again can't miss it, only thing close there is a 2 pin connector which is a redundant heater ekement or something which only applies to N. Americam market I think, on a standard set up. Can't remember which pins to check but it'll be obvious just connect till you get an OHM reading. Blue sensors are cheap and easy enough to change but a used VW one is prob. better than a new aftermarket one unless it's a good one.

Sorry just seen ya question. Simply unplugging the blue sensor will make ECU default to 70 degrees and give some idea. If you've a multi meter ohms test it, there's a table on here somewhere as to what should read at diff temps., think 100 degrees is about 50 to 100 ohms or something. The TPS can also be tested with ohmeter. Disconnect plug, at no throttle should read about 100 or so again, rising to 300 - 400 fully open. That might be 3000 - 4000, again google it, think setting I normally use on ohmeter is bout .65 throttle closed 3.65 fully open from memory. Sounds like probably your ISV anyway from your last post, I have a couple of known good spares if you need one. P.S. Check dashpot, check the £0.00 fix first!

It'll deffo be one of the cylinders. Slaves are cheap and easy to get, masters are a nightmare, nearly everywhere will list the wrong one for it. I renewed both, slave was kaput, master was fine, but I'd tracked down one of the last if not the last new master cylinders so fitted it anyway and on bright side I now have a second hand but known good master cylinder if you need one. For a VR6, probs. fits all Corrado's but I've never checked, so can't say for sure.

The blue sensor won't effect the idle like that. Easy to check anyway, simply disconnect it, it'll revert to a set 70 degrees, so try that first. Most likely thing that is, is that someone has adjusted the dashpot right up to compensate for a ropey ISV and dodgy idle .: now you've put a new ISV on it's running OK and dashpot is far too high. Check that first which will cost you nothing. Second most likely is the TPS, that will kick the idle all over as described if faulty.

I've got a known good second hand one if your stuck, replaced mine with a rebuilt one and turned out old one was fine, just hadn't got all air out system, which now have. Also renewed servo, so also have a spare known good servo

Sorry not really right section but the people with expertise to do this may well be looking in here : Hello, As above really, Supercharged 300bhp 58000 mile Golf 4 Motion for sale on ebay, Oxon. Anyone got the expertise and time for a Corrado 4 x 4 Supercharged? If so contact me when you've finished it and I may be happy to make you an offer after you've done all the hard work, haha.

I did this, always a good idea in my book. Remember it was dead simple but can't remember what I did exactly, I'll have look at car when have chance and it'll jog my memory. Make sure you use a feed that's only on when ignition key turned to avoid possibility of leaving it on running after parking car up. All normal auto fan switches and whatever switches fan on after engine switch off if needed unaffected.