Roger Blassberg

If you can wait one day, order on the net from www.sparkplugs.co.uk 6 Genuine NGK plugs for about £25 delivered. Best wishes RB

I have just done mine, at - wait for it - 203k. It was, unsurprisingly, worse than yours!! The top end of the bearing material had been completely feathered to a sharp edge and the rivets had disappeared. Another few hundred miles and it would have been a disaster. The guide rails and the bottom tensioner were similarly worn to yours. It rattled alll right, but not really horribly. Best wishes RB

I don't think you can buy the pulley separately, but you can get the bearing from an engineering supplier. I did it once, long ago, and have forgotten the bearing size and the supplier, but I'm sure someone else will advise you on that. In fact you dont need to take the tensioner off if you just intend to replace the pulley; just undo the centre bolt (undo clockwise as Hasan has advised.) It's a fiddle to pare back the pulley to get the old bearing out; use a sharp knife and take care not to trim your fingers at the same time!! If you take the whole tensioner off, be very careful not to overtighten the three bolts when you re-assemble it; they are threaded into the aluminium cylinder head and are easily stripped by heavy-handedness. Going back to the original problem, which is the noise; have you considered that the problem could be the water pump, the alternator, the PAS pump or (maybe) airconditioning compressor. When you have the belt off, check them for smooth turning and no slack in the bearings. Best wishes RB

You can inspect it, but you cannot get the top tensioner blade out without taking off the gearbox; its bottom pivot point is inside the lower chain cover. The only parts you can change with the gearbox on are the hydraulic tensioner piston and maybe the top guide rail. It's the old type top blade that wears out the most. Best wishes RB

Could it be the blue water temperature sensor over-richening the mixture at normal running temperature, or maybe a very dirty air filter. It's a cheap fix if it is either ( or both) of those.. Best wishes RB

I'm nearing the end of the "chains and clutch" job. When refitting the cam cover, with a new gasket obviously, is it recommended to use joint paste as well as the rubber gasket? The top mating face of the cylinder head is machined flat, but the face of the cover itself is a litlle more rough, i.e. a cast finish. The gasket is ribbed. What do you think? Best wishes RB

I had to drive 20 miles over hilly country a few years ago in one of our infamous sudden late-afternoon snowfalls (you remember, the one when hundreds spent the night on M11 ?) and I got home in the VR6 in one piece. The problem is usually caused by other immobile vehicles rather than total loss of your own traction. The trick is to do exactly the opposite of normal practice - pull away in as high a gear as possible, maybe 3rd, slipping the clutch with minimum revs., then once you are moving, down to 2nd just to trickle along on a very low throttle. If you have to brake, and avoid it unless absolutely essential, keep the clutch fully engaged in gear to keep the front wheels turning. Keep your eyes peeled for buses and lorries and anything powerful with rear wheel drive - heaven knows what will happen if I get caught out in my Jaguar S-Type R, automatic, 530Nm, no LSD - these are the potential blockages. Stop well behind them if you have to on an upward slope, they will slide back if they try to get going. Sorry if this is obvious or sounds patronising; just my 2 shillings' worth. Best wishes RB

The drive-shafts will need to be supported in slings of some sort, and it would be a good idea to put some plastic bags over the inboard cv joints to keep dirt out. But I think that apart from that you will be ok. Obviously without PAS and servo the steering and footbrake will be a bit heavy. Best wishes RB

Thanks to all for the responses. Hasan, Thanks for the offer of VAGCOM. I will give you a call once I have FINALLY bolted it all back together and can energise the electrics. And I may even ask for your help with photos etc if I start to get confused about what bolts where (I think I labelled everything properly but there's always a chance that the system has gone wrong somehow....). Best wishes RB

Yes, but apart from the smoother running and the greater power and the better fuel economy, what has the cam position sensor ever done for us?? But to be serious, I was surprised to find that the wire was apparently overheated (very brittle and broken insulation, oxidised copper strands and a definite break in continuity) despite being tucked away in the injector loom, away from mechanical strain. The surrounding wires are all in good order apart from an adjacent brown earthwire which is similarly damaged. The damaged section extends for about 20cm. from the loom connection towards the multi-pin plug and then down the CPS route. Maybe there was a short circuit sometime in the past which overheated the wires. Thanks for the response; I now look forward even more to getting the old girl running again. Best wishes RB

You may have to fettle the bonnet because the ABF engine is 15mm taller than the other 16V engines. I can't answer your question on the engine management wiring but someone else will be sure to help you. Best wishes and Happy New Year RB

I have discovered that the black/yellow wire from the injector rail wiring loom to the CPS is broken, and must have been so for quite a while; the insulation seems to be burnt and the wires were completely broken up. Despite this the car seemed to be running well before I started the chains/clutch job (which is now nearly complete). Obviously I will re-wire this circuit; what benefits will I see with the CPS doing it's bit? Best wishes and Happy New Year, RB

If you look in the Knowledge Base under the articles on timing chain and clutch replacement, there is a step-by-step guide on gearbox removal, supported by dozens of photos and advice. Best wishes RB

...or maybe the timing cover joint where the head gasket goes between the 2 parts is not oil tight. Best wishes RB

Whilst manoeuvring the gearbox out to expose the clutch, I pulled off the top of the connector to what I assume is the speedo drive, near to the diff. Underneath the cap is a spindle. I have pushed it all back together and it seems to be secure and unbroken. Will having pulled it apart be likely to have damaged it? Obviously I want to replace it if it is likely to be damaged and it would be much easier before I put the gearbox back on. Best wishes RB

Keep at it!! The lever does unbolt, at least mine did....... Best wishes RB

Those readings seem generally low to me. Especially nr. 5 obviously. Maybe you have a broken valve spring or a massive cylinder head gasket leak to atmosphere/water jacket. Is the cooling system getting over-pressurised, even when cold? Best wishes RB

Two more questions; thanks for responses so far. I have just looked at Bentley on the subject of the top duplex chain, and it shows that the chain is directional, i.e. there is a right and a wrong way of fitting it. Has anyone observed this when rebuilding and what would be the consequences of getting it the wrong way round? Secondly I am having trouble getting the oil seal out of the bottom chain cover. I will expose my ignorance by asking which way to drive it out, towards the outside or the inside? Best wishes RB

Well, my local VW specialist suggested a paste called Curit (if your eyesight is not quite 20/20, the name on the box can be a little disconcerting for those of a sensitive nature.....). Has anyone used that? The Grand Rebuild is now underway !! Getting the timing marks all lined up seemed simplicity itself, but twice it was out by a tooth after I had turned the engine over a few times. I found that it's quite easy to leave too much slack on the guiderail (tension) side of the top chain, which allows the timing to go off once it has all straightened itself out. It's essential to get the outer (duplex) part of the inter. sprocket into place at the same time as the top guiderail is holding the chain taut. It is also surprising how easily the camshafts can turn if they are not locked against the end slots. Incidentally, the intermediate shaft timing pointer was about 90 degrees out when I dismantled it. Perhaps it will run EVEN better now that a) everything is lined up and b) the timing covers are all shiny, inside and out. Best wishes RB

Looking through 2cc's timing chain epic article, he talks about sealant paste for the timing covers. When I took off the bottom cover, there was no evidence of any sealant at all on the machined mating surfaces. What have people used when rebuilding? The paste mentioned in the parts list seems to be extaordinarily expensive. Is good old-fashioned Hermatite just as good, or indeed nothing at all? And another thing....does anyone have a source for genuine-looking wiring loom tape? Thanks, Best wishes RB

Well I found another bolt !! It was close to the oil cooler, and once it was out the gearbox practically fell off. So all is well. The timing gear is off, and apart from the top tensioner, which as I said, was a hair's breadth from total collapse, all seems in order. The guide rails are ok and the chains are apparently fine too. But I have already bought the complete set of replacements, so they will go on. The gearbox has been hot jetwashed and will be a pleasure to put back on, unlike the removal experience. (note to self, don't drop gearbox on hand next time....). The clutch and flywheel all look good too with plenty of friction material left and no broken springs, score marks or bent bits, but again I already have a new clutch sitting on a shelf in the garage. Incidentally, the use of a cross-bar engine support really does make this so much easier - and safer. Thanks to those who replied. I'm sure I'll need further assistance during the re-build, especially with wiring although I did label everything and keep bolts and small parts in polythene bags. Best wishes RB

Tandino, yes I have taken out the 19mm bolt above the drive shaft coupling (the one with the head on the driver's side, opposite to the others) and the bellhousing lower plate. Hassan, the engine + gearbox are still in the car. The rear mounting, over and behind the gearbox, is completely dismantled. In addition to the bolt mentioned above, I have taken out one more at the very top, one which has an earth connection from the battery attached, one that goes onto the front mount, both starter motor bolts, one directly under the bellhousing, then the bellhousing lower plate. I have my very local specialist Mike Chapman coming over sometime this week to have a look so we should get to the bottom of it soon , but I'll let you know if I need more help - many thanks for the offer. Yes indeed, I was a few hundred miles from a catastrophe it would seem. As a word of warning to all, it wasn't actually very noisy, but I was just uneasy about the audible "thrashing" noise. And at 205k, it was definitely on the cards that it needed a good looking at, and so it proved to be!! Best wishes RB

I am in the process of removing the gearbox on my VR6, to change the timing chains. I have a copy of the excellent write up from the knowledge base and have followed these instructions, but the gearbox is steadfastly refusing to come off of the engine. I'm sure I have taken out all of the main bellhousing bolts. The only possible thing may be that I have not completely removed the front mounting, but have removed all the connecting bolts in that area. There is some movement between the bellhousing and the engine block if I gently lever it (not actually prying between the mating surfaces, obviously). Is it just a tight fit.? I have a trolley jack under the engine and another under the gearbox. Any suggestions gratefully received. Incidentally, the top chain tensioner blade was completely worn out. Both rivets have disappeared and the plastic pad is worn to a feathered-edge and has come loose. It looks as though I have saved a disaster by the skin of my teeth !! I just need to get that damned transmission off. Best wishes RB

Yes, that looks normal. If you do take the drain plug out, put it back in before undoing the plastic casing. The metal plug strengthens the casing when applying the torque to the hexagon. best wishes RB

1 standard atmosphere = 1 bar = 760mm mercury (Hg) = 14.7psi approximately. Best wishes RB