Johnboy98

A whoping £2,185.76(inc VAT) Found this on Deamon Tweeks http:// [url=http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=ROAD&pcode=BRE1A1.6011A2&app=Y]http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ ... 11A2&app=Y I may have found them cheaper though :lol:

You make me laugh VR6 Edit this and Edit that, get your point across then delete mine you have way too much spare time on your hands! Offensive, cripes DM as i said you need to get out a bit more!

Anyway back to topic I found this link and its a mine of information for brake and wheel setups. http://www.bira.org/info_main.html

Was wondering if these would fit behind my 17" RC's as they are a bit on the large side, Check these beauties out!

PhatVR6, so there roughly £100 to do the both? Thinks mine are a bit goosed after doing 180k.

Reading between the lines I think he was probably meaning CV joints !

I didnt realise that! Note: "4motion" is not equal to Haldex system. Volkswagen also use "4motion" to represent the Torsen-LSD system used by Passat. Therefore, "4motion" is actually a marketing nameplate instead of indicating the mechanical design.

93-110 is the optimal range when coverted from farenheit! you dont want to be at the top end of that on normal driving IMHO

LMAO this was in my post clicky clicky. The temps can be converted here http:// [url=http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm]http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm

Anything above 120 is not good for your engine. Found this info on Mocal coolers The temps can be converted here http:// [url=http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm]http://www.wbuf.noaa.gov/tempfc.htm It is critical to understand that an oil cooler is not designed to last the life of the car. Sound maintenance practice tells us that whenever we are doing a major engine overhaul we should not fail to replace the cooler as it is almost impossible to get the debris and sludge out of a used cooler! You would not rebuild your motor with an old oil pump nor should you reuse a cooler. This genuine Mocal 16 row cooler is a great upgrade. In the past, fitting an oil cooler was mandatory once an engine had been even slightly uprated. The main cause for this was the quality of motor oils available at that time. If the oil temperatures exceeded a specific point engine failure was almost guaranteed. Modern motor oils are generally of a much higher quality, especially the 'brand names', and have far superior high temperature tolerance than those of 10 or 15 years ago. Fully synthetic oils have extremely high heat tolerance. Use of any of these oils makes an oil cooler less of a necessity where engine outputs don't exceed about 90 horsepower. It is as bad to run the oil temperature too cool as it is to let it get too hot. The ideal operating range is 200 to 230 degrees F (sump temp). At these temperatures the oil is working efficiently to produce the best power, economy and release of combustion by-products. If the oil is too cool, these by-products are absorbed into the oil, requiring more frequent changes to avoid bearing and bore damage. It is worth noting that keeping the oil at the correct temperature helps cool the engine; high oil temperatures will create higher water temperatures. Various sizes of oil coolers and fitting kits, including pipes, are available. To help control temperature there is a thermostat MOCOT1 that fits into the engine cooler pipes (can not be used with braided steel pipes) that operates at 74 degrees C (165 degrees F). An oil temperature guage adapter MOCOT2 is also available that fits into one of the cooler pipes, not compatible with the braided steel pipes.

Quality and your still a Jammy Git then.

Yeah I reckon so Kev, not much in it when it comes to the V6 front! Off topic but is that your home garage with your raddo in it? if so its fekin massive yeh jammy sod!

Thats weird its only showing 6 pages in forum categories and Stan as being the last poster! :? Any Mods? No need it seems to have sorted its self.

Found these engine weights on VWVortex: VR6 180 Kgs or 396 lbs 24v V6 173 Kg 382 lbs 1.8T 128 Kgs 282 lbs 1.8 16v 120Kgs 265lbs G60? anyone know this 1?

Yeah all good points got any dyna plots and does anyone know is the engine heavier, lighter? it certainly looks like a tight squeeze in the bay!

Just reading this thread with an interest of eventually going this route myself when the VR engine starts to get deep down probs but in all fairness the performance gains seem to be pretty minimal compared to cost and effort or am I missing the point?

Might be worth asking about a GB? see what theyll do 5 and 10 for! Single is: £185 delivered with DHL

No mate lookks like a quality product and a good price to!!

Yeap interested too! Lets us know Phat!

Could be the top mount bearings are shot on your shocks, jack it up and grap the wheel and try pushing the shock up and down any movement and then either the nut is loose or (most likely) bearind is worn. Change both mounts and bearings. Worked for me as I had the same prob!!

Yeah I didnt need all the Syncs just second and 2 pinion bearings! I just left them to it as thats all they do so maybe thats why the price is cheaper as they are a one trick ponnie! Oh and Happy New Year Peeps :drinking:

How much is he gonna charge for the conversion Trigger?

Yeap there aint many as good as moi when it comes to "Pikey Prices"! :thumb right:

Nah not Stealth hang on .................Cornwall and Devon Transmissions St Austell. :wink:

I paid (delivered) for the Diff £420 for the rebuild of the Box £195 1 x 2nd gear Synchro £42 1 x seal set £17 2 x pinion bearings £34 and to fit it £100 total £808 You dont need to I suppose if you know theres plenty of life in the clutch but I changed that at the time aswell as final drive ratio but thats personel preference.