RS VR6

Are you having powerloss? May be the headgasket. If its the expansion tank...you should see residue from the coolant all over it.

How about stick on? http://www.empiregfx.com/shop/product.p ... t=0&page=1 "Yes these are made from vinyl.. similar to the Lamin-X film.. just not as thick. Yes these go on the outside of your lights like a sticker. Yes they should be applied with a soapy water solution so you can get the best placement and get all of the water/air bubbles out. Yes Like GoKart_16v said they are available without the reverse light cutouts.. you just need to let me know to remove them in the comment box when you do the final check out on the site."

Fresh out of the factory.

Very nice...good choice on the wheel color!

Two from a local show. I mean three... :?

You will need a pair of carriers like this so that you can mount the Boxter caliper to. This is off the Neuspeed site.

If you go to Brembo's website, you can download and print a template that you can cut and place behind the wheel to check caliper clearance.

Here in the states a clean, complete VWMS VSR will fetch about 2000usd.

If you do need to replace the coilpack...there is one made by Borg Warner (P/N E635). It cost me 200usd vs the 400 for the Telefunken one from VW. Its identical in every way to the VW one. I've been using it for the past 4 months with no problems.

100 octane is available out here as "race" fuel. Its goes for 6usd vs the 2.70usd per gallon for the 91 oct. California used to have 93, then 92...now 91. About once a month I'll run the 100 octane...that shits more addicting than crack!! :drinking:

Man...I can't to get my hands on one....or two. Got some BBS's ready to go on!

A vag will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. The coilpack should not fail in such a short time...its a part thats supposed to last over 100k. Find yourself another coilpack and switch it out...then you'll know for sure.

Haha...I forgot...and to make it worse I have a UK cluster in my car! :oops:

Check that you didn't blow a fuse first...before you start tearing into the car.

35mpg!!! Is our MFA reading correctly?

I disagree with that. How can a 7160rpm rev limit and too much advance in the GIAC software be safe? Standard cams aren't even making power past 6800!! It's a totally pointless rev limit to set. Just set to get the hp numbers to sell the kits. We don't use GIAC anymore cause it's pants. All UK supplied kits now come without software. As for 'bolt on'.... the idler bracket needs modifying, the drop tube hits the inner wing, there are no MAF clamp instructions, no guidelines of proper belt tension and the supplied instructions are a joke. I'm not sure whats up with the UK cars, but I've been running my car on the GIAC software with no issues. Like I said...I have over 40k on my kit on the GIAC software with no running issues. Car pulls strong once the boost hits. My fuel economy is rather good too. If I do nothing but highway driving...I'll get about 350-375 to the tank. If you look at any chip tuner that makes a chip for the VR6...the redline will be raised to 7k. As for the timing advance...it can't be too much, because, all we get here in California is 91 octance which is piss poor. I know two other local Corrado owners and we have not had issues with the tube hitting the inner fenders. I did have to widen the hole that the tube goes down though. The only issue I had with my VF kit, was the pulley alignment...I had to space the bracket out to line it up correctly. So I don't know what the issue is with the cars over the pond...pretty much out here the cars run with the program the VF kit comes with. The stage 3+ R32's are doing over 420 to the front wheels with the supplied GIAC software. Their technician can do the complete install in about four hours. They did one one live at a R32 meet. As for the idler pulley I have no experience with them...they are sold with the stage 3 kits...which is not available for the Corrados.

I've been getting this same code for 2 years. The Bently says leaky injectors. I just think the ECU is farting rich. Its given me no problems though. My gas mileage and idle are not affected. I've changed two o2 sensors...this second one was done last week. I still get that code. I've also scanned 4 other Corrados and they too have this code. Their cars run fine. Does your car get poor fuel economy? A bad o2 will cause the run horribly rich. Also check the wires and connectors to the o2. These cars are old and there is alot of heat where the o2 is. The wires and connectors will get brittle over time. I had to replace the conector that connects to my o2. See if you can find a used one that is good and swap it out...that may be your only way of finding out. If it is bad...you should notice immediately after start up.

My VF with the Schrick. It made a huge difference from 3 to 4k...above 4k...the charger takes over. Did 272bhp/230tq on Neuspeed's Clayton dyno. I've put over 40k on the kit and have had no issues. The VF kit is a straight bolt on and comes with everything you need, including software to safely run the kit. The stage 3 10psi kit is when you'll need the extra fueling and the intercooler. VF did the install and I was charged 500usd.

My setup...

I got a quote from a bodyshop for 700usd for a rear quarter panel. I'm sure you can use a front arch...but the porportions are not correct. Just find a wrecked Corrado and get the entire rear quarter from it. When I got rear ended the, part below my taillights was completely smashed in. I found a wrecked Corrado and cut that piece out, and gave it to the bodyshop to weld in. The part where the "RS" badge is, to the middle of the license plate is from another car.

Crazyyyy....all the US cars got AC.

Just be aware that when the AC is on, its going to bring the coolant temp up quite a bit. Make sure that your cars cooling system is in good working order before the install. I love the AC in my Corrado. I could not go through a So Cal summer without it.

I've got a late dash, the car's up at RKE at the moment so get John to take it out for you? I could also get hold of a LHD early vent for you , but it would need to be sent down etc, let me know if you're stuck for one. Thanks Walesy, the problem is I need to butcher the vent (and it won't be much use after :) ) so I don't really want a vent that someone needs back. A spare that someones got kickin around would be ideal. Cheers If your looking for a left hand drive vent(VR6 or G60), let me know. :) I'm sure some of the guys here in the states will be more than willing to get one of these. I can see if there is any interest and see how many people want one.

If your cars anywhere near low...its going to get ruined...fast.:brickwall:

Your absolutely right. :( I was so excited to see the part, I completely overlooked the right hand drive part! :lol: So what are the chances of coming out for a 93+ left hand drive version? :cry: