RS VR6

Nothings hacked...I just went to the dealer and got black mats.

If you have no cracks you should be able to us the old trim. You have two parts: 1, the rubbber that goes around the A pillars and 2, the plastic trim that snaps in around the glass. For some reason the glass shop I went to used some crappy one piece rubber seal that well...looks like crap. :bad-words:

Be glad your cars didn't come with the US spec candle power lights. When I switched over to the Euro spec ones...it was a night and day difference. Also check the grounds for the lights...if they are dirty...it'll cause the lights to go dim. Guy here in the states did the yellow ones.

Might be your valve seals, if its not the piston rings. Check the bottom of your oil cap and coolant reservior. If your HG is blown...there should be oil and coolant mixed togther. Would a blown HG cause oil to come out of the exhaust? Normally if you have a blown HG...the car would overheat and there would be a loss of coolant.

Its on the way out. I'd bypass it asap...or your going to end up with coolant on your feet.

They fit like ass. One side dosen't fit level and the other side isn't flat. I painted the chrome housing...looks a bit better.

Here's a dizzying thread from Vortex about Horsepower vs Torque. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2705665

It'll be the same as a leather wheel...but it won't dissolve like the leather. :salute:

Looks like a nice bit of work...but 360 is a bit hard to believe. Until I see actual numbers off a legit dyno...its going to be hard one to swallow. :drinking:

Normally a bad lambda won't cause the car to stall out...it will cause the car to run super rich. The stalling is probably caused by something else. Did you clean your idle stabilizer? Its posible that its dirty and not opening all the way at idle.

Haha...do you have sweaty hands? :cyclops2: Well...a solution would be to get a steering wheel that made of ployurethane not leather. You can get them dirt cheap off Ebay. :blackeye:

Off the Ross Tech site: "00533 - Idle Speed Regulation: Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded Possible Symptoms Bad Fuel Economy Possible Causes Air Leak between Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor and Engine Injector(s) faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator faulty Throttle Body faulty Intake Air Filter dirty Possible Solutions Perform Throttle Body Adaptation Check Hoses and Pipes to/between Components Check Intake Air Filter Check Fuel Pressure Regulator Check Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Check Injector(s) 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation: Upper Limit Possible Symptoms No Lambda control Engine running problems Possible Causes Short to Ground Injector defective (blocked) Fuel pressure regulator defective Fuel pump defective Fuel tank empty Possible Solutions Check Lambda probe and Lambda control Check injectors (N30...N33) Check fuel pressure regulator Check fuel pump Check fuel level in fuel tank 00537 - Lambda (Oxygen Sensor) Regulation: Lower Limit Possible Causes Activated charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 (N80) leaking/sticking Injector defective (not closing completely) Fuel pressure regulator defective Possible Solutions Check charcoal filter solenoid valve 1 (N80) Check injectors (N30...N33) Check fuel pressure regulator" Its tottaly possible that they are "false" codes caused by another issue. I had the 00537 for the longest time. I eventually checked the wiring to the lambda plug. Turns out that one of the wires was down to one strand. I replaced the entire plug, cleared the ECU and the problem went away.

Its not really a bypass valve per say. Its more of a "restrictor" that goes on the inlet part of the matrix hose. It reduces the flow of the coolant into the heater matrix.

You do know that the 0w is @ startup temp right? Then the viscosity goes to 40 when at running temp. It dosen't consistently run at 0w. Well tell me where you get your findings...until then...all you doing is spouting cr@p. :D

Its normally associated with the oil getting past your piston rings and/or valve seals. Results in white smoke coming out of the tailpipe.

you seem to be cunfusing synthetic/semi synth with thin/thick oil you can get 10/40 synthetic and you can get 0-30 semi or even mineral No...not really. Kev came out and said he wouldn't recommend it. With that I knew he was talking about possible oil leaks and/or blow by. I spoke with many people before I decided to use the 0w-40 on my car. I did come across the issue of leaks and blow by. Some say yes...other say its an "old wives tale". I know people that have made the switch at 100k plus on mk3 VR's, also with no issues. So...I decided to give it a shot myself. I've done about 4-5 oil changes and there are no leaks and no abnormal oil consumption...and no smoke from blowby. Like I've said before...it depends on the shape of your engine. If you have a haggered 170k engine that has no maintenence done...then I'd think twice...but at 100k on a VR6...come on... Mobil's website recommends the 0w-40 for the Corrado VR6. http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/mot ... x?option=1 Off the Mobil 1 website: "Myth: Mobil 1 will leak out of the seals of older cars. Reality: Mobil 1 does not cause leaks. In fact, new Mobil 1 was tested in dozens of industry standard and original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) tests to prove its seal performance. It is fully compatible with the elastomeric materials from which all automotive seals and gaskets are made. If an older engine is in good condition and does not have oil leaks, Mobil 1 provides the same advantages as when used in a new engine. ExxonMobil recommends taking measures to repair the leaks, then using Mobil 1. ExxonMobil also recommends following the automobile manufacturer's manual for the proper oil to use."

Yeah, Sure.... No way a 118K old VR6 engine can hold a 0 weight synthetic oil with no burning or leaks what so ever. The tolerances simply aren't tight enough in the 12V. Say no all you want...but my car is my proof...whats yours?

Rieger...

Leaks and blow by are caused by bad rings and seals...not by synthetic oil. By my conclusions, if your engine is healthy...there is no reason why you can't use synthetic oil on a high mileage engine. I've done several oil changes with NO leaks anywhere...and none of my seals have been changed.

I have it in my car...runs fine. I noticed a drop in oil temps too.

If your topping your oil once a week...your probably burning oil or have a leak somewhere.

How many miles has your motor done? No way I'd use that on a VR that's exceeded 80K. Lol...because someone told you that it'll cause leaks or the oil will get past the rings? I started using it at 100K...and now I have 118k...with no issues.

I'm using Mobil 1 0w40.

I paid around 170 usd. It dosen't come with the finishing ring around the horn button...that came off my Momo Corse. It the Sparco Ring.