BigTartanJudge

Check her out: 4.2 V8 TT, RS6, 570BHP, 630 Lb-ft at 3300 rpm, MTM and QST (Kim Collins)-tuned http://getallof.com/rs6.html and also on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fast-AUDI-RS6-MTM ... dZViewItem A snip at £60,000 buy-it-now, think I'd rather have a new RS4 though, with all the options, still only be about £55k ! Cheers

They look not too bad on the rado, think LowG used to have a set on his rado, see here: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... highlight= Cheers

Sorry to see your selling / sold-up mike, on the plus side looks like a minty replacement though ! Who bought the rado then ? Also, going by what you have mentioned previously above, I may have some "special" wheels (going to be refurbed first and adapters sourced) you would probably be interested in for sale in next few months, 7.5+8x16" too.........;-)

Pretty sure Spencer Tramm's Corrado-based dragster does 9 sec 1/4's at 150-ish ? Chevy V8 468ci (7669cc) big-block methanol fuelled normally-aspirated......... http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... ncer+tramm

Do a search on here, try 20vt and conversion as keywords or something similar, been discussed plenty of times before.

Don't see why the beam pattern would be wrong, as if lens is totaally clear and projector is being used the headlight lens isn't really going to deflect / change the beam pattern as non-directional ?

Yes, you can use the standard Corrado headlight glass together with the In-Pro light housings / bezel. They are the same shape and are clipped together in the same way.

Most garages (independant) charge around £30-£40 per hr plus VAT. So say £37 per hr as average, labour charge for 3.25 hours would be around £120 plus VAT maybe, so around £150 all in, so maybe a bit on expensive side.

It wasn't in last months or the months before that PVW ? Also from what I gather from the article in Dec PVW featuring the Dutch orange 2.0 FSI converted MK2, that conversion uses the FSI managment and wiring loom. It also defo uses the MK4 R32 dash and clocks.

Nope not the same colour, that car is Jeroen Dik's old 16VG60 rado, R32's didn't exist back when it was built and painted ! The blue is too dark anyway and isn't pearl AFAIK.

Yep, I thought it was running the TFSI managment and MK4 or 5 clocks as well, anyways, good luck with it mate !

Pretty similar to Subaru Sonic Blue metallic I think.........just like mine ! Never seen another painted like mine, or in similar shade ! Maybe it's (VW) slightly darker ? See here on mine: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&start=60 http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Cheers

Fair enough, if you wnt me to I will measure the spacings and give you the dimensions to check, if you are interested in borrowing it, up to you really G60SC_stoney..... Also you could use a Gator-Grip universal socket wrench (see here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT ... dZViewItem) or as mentioned just hammer on a slightly-smaller socket over the top of the bolt head, although this method is not quite as successful when used with round headed locking wheel-bolts. You can use the locking wheel bolt removal tools, made by Laser / Sealey / Draper etc, have a look here: http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Wheel-Nut-Tools http://www.incarshop.co.uk/acatalog/Loc ... EAodlTc7FA http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOCKING-WHEEL-NUT ... dZViewItem http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Tool-Shop/Wheel-Nut-Tools http://www.lockingwheelnutremover.com/p ... range.html (as used by AA, RAC, ATS etc.) Also you might want to try hammering a large spike at an angle to try and get the nut to shift slightly, as have heard this sometimes works on the Tri-locks. Finally, if all this fails, you can cut a notch in the head, connecting up the holes then use a flat-head screw driver and something to turn it to get it off or just weld another bolt / piece of metal to it and use normal socket to remove (this MAY wreck the alloy though). Hope some of this helps you.

Fairly sure there was also a dutch orange painted MK2 TFSI converted in PVW a few months back ?

I wouldn't bother nipping over to Jabba at any point tbh to have charger checked / rebuilt. Do a search for Jabbasport and charger rebuild or similar to see why. Better sticking it down to G-werks to get it inspected / rebuilt if required.

I have a spare removal key for this locking wheel nut if you need it mate, just pay the postage and it's yours to borrow. Let me know, Cheers

Yeah, didn't think they were sealed as seem to remember seeing the same sort of clips fixing the glass lens onto the light unit when fitting them originally. Guess someone could make a complete custom unit using a pair of standard corrado lighting units, an HID / projector lens set-up out of say an Audi / BMW of some sort and the glass lens from an In-pro Angel eye kit ? Going to spray the silver inside part of my angel eye unit black and fit a main-beam HID kit when I have funds.

Hmmmn, this is what I can't understand with mine tbh, was sure it was the heater matrix, with the amount of sticky water soaked into the passenger side footwell and towards the back seat. The coolant level is also low in the expansion tank and the level warning light illuminates after 10 mins of driving. Have checked all the ducting (cleared of debris) and door seal / membranes (intact). No steam coming through the vents in dash etc either but occasionally the windscreen does steam up badly. I cleaned and dried the mats and soaked up the excess water in the footwells with newspaper and then disposed of the sodden paper and left her to sit. Haven't driven her in ages, then checked the interior passenger side last night and it's all bone-dry now ? How is this possible, is it just because the system is not pressurised and the matrix is not under pressure so won't be able to leak into the interior at the moment ? Will it just start to leak again and the interior passenger side become sodden again if I start to drive it again now ? Any help / advice appreciated !

Hmmmn, this is what I can't understand with mine tbh, was sure it was the heater matrix, with the amount of sticky water soaked into the passenger side footwell and towards the back seat. The coolant level is also low in the expansion tank and the level warning light illuminates after 10 mins of driving. Have checked all the ducting (cleared of debris) and door seal / membranes (intact). No steam coming through the vents in dash etc either but occasionally the windscreen does steam up badly. I cleaned and dried the mats and soaked up the excess water in the footwells with newspaper and then disposed of the sodden paper and left her to sit. Haven't driven her in ages, then checked the interior passenger side last night and it's all bone-dry now ? How is this possible, is it just because the system is not pressurised and the matrix is not under pressure so won't be able to leak into the interior at the moment ? Will it just start to leak again and the interior passenger side become sodden again if I start to drive it again now ? Any help / advice appreciated !

Replace the mirrors and front bumper = one awesome machine

If the In-pro's are sealed, then how do people manage to paint the inside of the lamp unit black like JBOB did his ? See here: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... eyes+paint

Nice G60 mate, reminds me of my old 16V to G60 converteed rado when I put her back to standard. I have a set of brand new, boxed, FK Konigsports for sale as well if that's of any interest to you (cheapest price you'll find anywhere) ? http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0 Cheers

They actually have 28 days to send out a letter or NIP (Notice of intended Prosecution). And at 35 mph in a 30 mph zone, he is "sailing very close to the wind". They would be quite entitled to charge him for speeding at 35 mph. "Normally" it's an unwittedn rule, but you are allowed 10 % roughly, i.e. 33 mph and above they will do you. I have friends that have been done for doing 34 and 35 mph in a 30 mph zone. In Scotland, apparently there is a loophole, in that civilians (the majority of "scamera" van operators are civilians) cannot appear against you in a court of law to give evidence for a speeding offence, therefore you cannot be prosecuted. Allegedly, I haven't had personal experience of this but have heard of cases where it has worked. As also stated above, they must also be able to produce a certificate of calibration for each morning of the day on which a van is in operation, otherwise all readings are null and void.

I think I still have a Mattig smoothed rear panel blanking plate mate I would be prepared to sell, it will need resprayed (unless car is inca blue) and has a small crack in it (easily repaired). Let me know if you want it, Cheers

As mentioned above, 17" for looks, 15"-16" for handling. Best compromise is a slightly-wider than standard 16" rim, think 7.5x16" is ideal. This is what I have on mine and it both looks good and handles well.