Popeye775

I actually do know someone with one! I will give it a shot. Thank you sir Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi sir, thank you for the reply. I will continuity test the wires today. That will narrow things down even more. I don't think you can use VCDS for G60. Just because the digifant has a different plug than OBDII, and from searching VCDS I only found ones that plug into OBDII ports sadly. Unless I am searching wrong haha

Found something interesting that I wanted an opinion on. With CTS unplugged, I can richen up the AFR to an about ~12-13 and the car will idle fine. This is all with CTS still unplugged. If I try to turn the CO pot to lean it out a bit to get it to around that 14 range, the car starts to sputter and sound misfirish and begin to lean out. Does this mean anything to anyone? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys for anyone following this thread, so here is the plan for the Corrado. I am extremely bummed that this car has just been sitting, but I am going to try and see if anybody near me - that owns a corrado or use to - has a spare stock ECU I can borrow to plug into my car and see if a different ECU solves the issue. IF it does, then I will move my chip over into that ECU and see if the problem persists. If it does, then I know it is the chip, if everything is fine, then I will know it was the ECU. If the different ECU doesn't work, then I am going to trace the red wire going from ECU to the injectors to see if there are any breaks in that wire anywhere. I'm not assuming that it has any breaks in the wiring, but it could. Three questions, First: Is there a way I can test for breaks in that red wire before trying to rip anything apart? Just to avoid ripping the harness apart. Second: The harness connector clip plastic for my injector (plugs into the injector harness) has a break in the plastic. It still plugs into the injector harness just fine, but could this have allowed any loose connection in one of the wires? I think at this point I am just searching for any little thing that could be wrong/causing this issue. Finally: Does anybody know of a way I can test my ECU out to see if it is bad or not? I am not assuming the ECU is bad just because the car starts up first try every time, and doesn't really run lean/misfire while cruising or driving, but Im assuming it could still be a possibility. Thank you to all who have helped thus far, and to those that continue to help try to solve this issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CTS** sorry sir mistyped Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did smoke test the car and couldn’t see any visible vacuum or exhaust leaks. But will check again! The only thing I’m curious of is how that could explain how the car idles fine with the CTA unplugged if it were an exhaust leak? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi sir, are you talking about some sort of exhaust leak somewhere? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey guys, I’m starting a new thread with this problem very detailed. It is in my other thread but I wanted everything on the top post so I could try to get any advice possible and have everything in one spot. Issue: Lean misfire at idle (16-18 AFR with a burbly idle) Things changed: CTS, fuel injectors, vacuum lines, spark plugs, idle air screw o-ring, o2 sensor Things tested: ISV and wiring, CTS and voltage tested wiring (with car running), CO pot wiring (voltage tested with car running), resistance of the air temp sensor and CO pot, spark, fuel pressure, smoke test, AFR, o2 sensor and wiring, co pot and air temp sensor at the ECU end of the harness, main grounds, timing. Details: the car runs lean at idle (15-18 AFR) and has a misfire like sound while idling. While cruising or driving with open throttle, the AFR is pretty decent and the misfire seems to go away. Here’s where it gets interesting. During the first 30-60 seconds on starting, the car will run at a 12-13 AFR and idle smooth. It will also do this warmed up, with the CTS UNPLUGGED. But as soon as it’s plugged back in, it’ll lean out and start to burble again. I will attach a video of the noise as well so you guys can hear it. The CTS is unplugged in this video for the first part of it. As soon as you hear it start to stutter, is when the CTS was plugged back in. Any help would be appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Turning the CO pot down while the CTS was plugged in did nothing at all. No richening up what so ever. This picture is from when it first started up for about the first 30-60 seconds, then it leaned out back to 16-18 and started that burble noise again. With the CTS unplugged and warmed up, it’ll be around 13 and stay there consistently. Any ideas to try next? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds good. I am also redoing the grounds this weekend, just for the sake of having we grounds and peace of mind Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How much lower can the CO pot really be adjusted if it’s at 80ohm already?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure if you remember the video I had posted of the sound at idle when it sounded burbly, but it still sounds like that on idle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

bump I checked the ISV harness connector for giggles and found that the ISV - when grounded to somewhere other than the ISV ground itself - gives me 12v. When I use the ground going to the ISV I get 11v. This sound like a bad ground to you guys? If so where does the ISV ground route to, so I can pull that wire and run a new ground if possible. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I apologize for all the constant replies to this thread but I found something interesting when I checked the resistance at the CO pot, the air temp sensor, and the harness at pins 9&5: CO pot - ~80ohm Air temp sensor - 2.27kohm Pins 9&5 - 2.25kohm (at 22 Celsius) Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Idle switch reads perfectly fine, and the connection to the blue temp sensor is perfect too. Could this eBay ISV be leaning out my idle? The only reason that’s my assumption now is because it idles so well with the CTS unplugged Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

80ohm gave me an idle of 15-18 AFR but good driving AFR Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I learned I am reading the gauge backwards. By a quick google search I found that the higher the number, the leaner. The lower, the richer. I feel quite dumb but anyways. That means I am lean upon idle. Because my idle was around 15-19 on the gauge. So add more fuel I guess? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With it fully warmed up it usually idles around 850-900 with the CTS plugged in and has been idling around the same with it unplugged or once I unplug it. Maybe just a tad bit lower. I will record it right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So set the CO to 500 and then set everything else from there? Meanwhile recording the idle speed with the CTS plugged in? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is also a brand new CTS. I just put it in two days ago Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes factory thermostat is in there as far as I know. The CO is at around 80 ohm right now because that’s where it was happiest so far. I will set it to 500 ohm and retest. The car was completely warmed up, as I had to drive it home from the welding shop haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So how would I be able to adjust it down at idle with the CTS plugged in? because that is where my issue is. With it unplugged it seems good

SO here is where we are. The wideband is installed and started reading. When it is idling, the AFR is bouncing between 14-18.5. When on throttle/starting to drive, the AFR is around 14.5. With the CTS unplugged, the AFR will sit around 13.5-14.5 and the idle will sound smooth. So basically what it seems is that it is becoming very rich upon idle? Does anybody know what the PROPER AFR is suppose to be? From research it seemed to need to be around 14.75, but I could be wrong.

Car was fully warmed up. As far as I know, the CTS must be unplugged in order to adjust the CO accurately. But I could be wrong Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update for you sir, I wanted to test something out. I put stock gapped plugs in the car (.024) and turned down the CO Pot until it idled smooth ( as in the video) with the CTS unplugged. BUT as soon as the CTS was plugged back in, you will hear the idle dip and hear a change in idle. Bad CTS maybe? The other thing that I am a little concerned about is the fact that the CO Pot is at 80 ohms of resistance in the video. From what I have read, 500 ohm is where fuel is neither added or taken out. 80 just seemed a little low, even if it is idling smoother. Ideas? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3RCDoGGEUzU