Popeye775

Not smoothly. Will bog a tiny bit but then will start idling pretty smooth. It still has its little misfire under 2k rpm, but if I hold throttle at ~2k rpm the misfire smooths out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all,I’ve tried finding other forums - to which I only found some but unresolved - on rough start issues. So my 1990 G60 is having a rough start issue. I just fixed the timing - after it had jumped a tooth - and have looked this car up and down. Here’s a list of things replaced so far:DistributorIgnition coilPlug wiresPlugsFuel pump (and relay)Fuel filterFuel linesStarterAll ground checkedAll wire harnesses checkedThe car takes a couple tries to turn on. It’ll turn on for a split second and then die the first couple times. It’ll try to keep itself on but can’t usually until the third try. I have new fuel injectors also on the way as for they have never been replaced and the seals have never been replaced either by the PO. Any advice on this rough start issue? Timing has also been triple checked.

Update: the only thing to fix now is the misfire. I test drove it today after timing it with a timing light and it has an intermittent misfire under 2k rpm. I am going to change out the plugs again. THINGS DONE: Checked plug wires Checked the fuel injectors are getting fuel Checked coil The car has a chip and adjustable pressure regulator that is at 3.5 bar My question is could it be getting too much fuel? Should I try putting my stock pressure regulator back on and see what happens? It is running a 68mm supercharger pulley and stage 3 BBM chip. The cam is going in after this misfire is figured out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

update: the charger was not seized, the timing was way out of wack, and the car starts again. Here is a sound clip of how it sounds. Tell me if anything sounds off, because that weird burbling noise was there before and that is the noise I am trying to get rid of. Car while on

Yes I do. I just cracked it open to find how to align the pulleys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update sir, I set the timing to TDC and checked all of the gears. To which I found the intermediate shaft and the crank pulley timing marks no longer in line with each other. I have uploaded photos showing what I mean. In order to fix this, do I just need to rotate the crank pulley to line up with the arrow on the timing belt cover, and then rotate the intermediate shaft to line up with the mark on the crank pulley?

I do have a spare charger so I could throw that on and check that as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will give that a look this weekend[emoji1374] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi sir, compression checked today and it’s not looking promising. Last month the compression numbers were 120 130 120 130 Today they were 90 90 90 95 Both were done on cold motors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will for sure give it a look! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will give it a shot. I thought I had the ignition timing set at TDC and tried 6 degrees BTDC but I could be wrong. Either way, will give it a shot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh oh gotcha. So if the compression is fine, where would you go from here? I have a new ECU relay on the way, I can get a new distributor if need be, but I don’t know what else this could be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also I apologize but the AA and RAC? What do these two terms stand for? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The chuffing sound it coming out of the back of the exhaust. The compression was checked not even a month ago and the compression numbers came back fine. Should I double check compression? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is really weird because the day before, the car was running good. Then I go to move it the next day and it ends up stalling and then not turning back on

The RPM bounces. Usually getting up to around 200-500 when trying to crank. I haven't paid too much attention to the RPM when trying to start. You think the timing belt jumped a tooth?

Here is the car trying to start

So I changed my o2 sensor, and now the car wont turn on. I was having weird burble issues and the o2 sensor took all of those away. Here is what I posted to the Vortex to try to get it solved. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This seems to be a never ending issue right now. I got a brand new ignition coil. The ohm reading was oddly high (4300 ohm for terminal 4 to 15). Not sure if this could still be the problem, but I went ahead and tested that the ignition coil and the hall sender are getting power. To which both of them are getting the necessary power to them. I checked that they were getting fuel by unplugging the ignition coil and turning the car over in order to get the injectors to spray. Things that I have tried so far:New ignition coilChecked the ohm reading to the spark plug wires (all were 6 ohm except the one going to the coil; that one was around 2.2 ohm)Checked the spark plugsChecked for sparkTriple checked the timingChecked for fuel pressure and that the injectors are firingTested the battery to make sure it was goodTested the wiring going to the ignition coil and to the hall senderChecked the distributor cap for any damageI am running out of ideas for things to test that it could be. Anybody know how I can test the hall sender without the VW special tool? Possibly ignition switch? Alternator? Voltage regulator? I am very confused and very lost. The only thing to have changed from the time it ran, to the time that it didn't is the o2 sensor. Even after I changed the o2, the car started up and ran. It ran better than it had in a couple months. Then out of the blue the next day, it just wont turn on.

Here’s the G60 throttle body. Where should I look? Would it be more underneath? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gotcha. I will take a look today sir! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are you referring to the air screw? If so then I’ve heard the rubber gasket can go bad in there but I’m not sure if that would be causing this. I will check though! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all. I posted this to the Vortex as well, but my Corrado G60 is having an interesting idle sputter I guess you could say. When the car is at idle, it is perfectly fine. But, when I am driving the car and then put my foot into the clutch to come to a stop or downshift, the idle drops. It usually idles around 950-1000, but when I am driving and put my foot in the clutch it drops to around 500 and then brings itself back up. I have checked the fuel pressure when releasing acceleration - it is fine, no drops in fuel pressure - , I have checked the spark plugs, I have tried to test the throttle sensor, and checked the throttle cable as well. All of this seems ok. I am smoke testing the car next week though to see if there are any vacuum leaks. It does also feel a little under powered compared to normal. Does anybody have any other suggestions as to what this could be?

Hi all! Ok here’s the issue: my 1990 Corrado G60 has had this start issue for a while now. Upon the first start up of the day, it’ll take a few tries to actually get it to start. Once the car starts up, it won’t have an issue the rest of the day. Just that very first start is a little rough. It’s almost as if the timing is off or something. But after replacing the timing belt, I made sure to time the car correctly, unless I’m still just a tad off. I also checked my injector harness to be sure it wasn’t cracked or anything and it looks good. Any ideas? Thank you!

Hey! So it seems to be the tensioner pulley, and I am going to replace the timing belt as well while replacing that. When I sprayed the tensioner pulley with some WD-40, the sound was definitely effected. I will check out these other things as well that you mentioned, thank you!!

Hey guys, so I made a pretty rookie mistake. I was replacing my starter (I have replaced starters before just not on a car where it is also mounted to the engine mount) and didn't realize that it was mounted to the engine mount. Long story short, the motor dropped about a half inch. I got everything back up and bolted up but there is now this sound coming from the pully side of my engine bay. Here is a clip of the sound. Any ideashttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZSvl0sFYWw&feature=youtu.be?