Popeye775

Hey guys! Just wanted to give a quick update: I replaced both - the fuel pump and ECU - relays and the car has been doing really well! I have been driving the crap out of it since replacing them and - knock on wood - it hasn't stalled on me, and starts right up. I really hope that this was the fix it needed! Thank you all for the help

Hey Steve! So my relay actually gets extremely warm as well! I just replaced the relay and am going to see on Friday if that was the problem.

Hey guys! Thanks for all the replies, I am out of town until Friday and then I will be able to try all of this out!

It’s going to the mechanic either this week or next week to get scanned and have everything further investigated

Do you think that there is any chance of the relay getting overheated and causing the car to not be able to turn back on once it shuts off? I also do need to check the compression just to rule that out as well. But when I try to start it up again it just sounds like it isn't getting gas. It sounds like it is out of gas when I know it has gas. It is sparking and everything just fine from the sound of it. Fuel pump relay?? Or maybe even injector wiring? I figure that it wouldn't turn on at all or wouldn't run very well if the car had a bad injector but I could be wrong haha.

Ok so here is where it is at. The fuel pump is really hard to hear in general so I don't know if that is the issue or not. I am going to get a new relay and replace it anyways just for precaution. I got the car started and got it to run for a constant 20 minutes. For the first ten minutes I would give it some throttle every so often, and for the second half of that I just let it run by itself and it ran perfectly fine. I then shut it off and tried to start it a couple minutes later with no luck at all. I did however feel the relay for the ECU and it felt extremely warm compared to all the other relays. All the other ones weren't even warm at all. Could this be an issue with the relay getting too hot and not allowing the car to turn back on because it could be collapsing the magnetic field? Or could this still be something else?

I checked the o2 sensor just by unplugging it as a whole and letting the car run to see if that had any effect on the stalling. It had no effect what-so-ever on the car stalling so I figure that the o2 sensor and the wiring harness would be completely fine since nothing changed with it unplugged. I figure with it unplugged it won't be able to change to closed once the car is warmed up, it'll have to stay open. The car would run lean of course but it shouldn't have stalled if the o2 sensor or the wiring harness were the problem I would think.

I changed the coolant temperature sensor and that didn't do anything. It still does the same thing sadly. I also checked to see if it was the o2 sensor but that wasn't it either. I am curious if it is the ECU control relay now or the starter solenoid. It just dies and won't turn back on until it is cooled down. I have also not taken it on a drive with it being like this, I just let it sit and idle for a while to see if it is going to die again or not. How could I check if this was the control relay?

Hey Guys, I'm starting a new thread because my other issue got solved haha. So, my G60 is having a major problem. It won't stay on for more than 8 minutes without shutting off and not turning back on until it has cooled off. I replaced the distributor thinking it was the hall sensor, I replaced the ignition coil pack, replaced the spark plugs, and replaced the wires. The fuel pump and fuel filter have also been replaced within the past couple of months. Could it be anything with an o2 sensor or coolant temperature sensor? Does anybody have any sort of idea as to what could be happening here or have had the same issue before? Anything will help.

OH! I should've realized that's what you meant. I have checked the ECU vac hose, checked for air leaks, and boost leaks. The car - as far as I am aware - was serviced not long before I got it. Which I have barely put any miles on it since then. As for when the Blue plug was last replaced, I couldn't tell you. My starting point was the hall sender. So far I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor (cap and rotor), spark plugs, ignition coil pack, and tomorrow am going to replace the spark plug wires. This is why I am so stumped as to what this could be at this point.

The blue sensor looks to be in good shape luckily

I’ll take a look at it and get back to you!

By blue sensor, are you talking about my coolant temperature connector?? Just want to clarify haha

So I just replaced the spark plugs and ignition coil as well. That made It so that the car turns on and runs for a good 8-10 minutes and then just shuts off. What do you guys presume this could be? It just doesn't want to stay on for more than 8 minutes. Could there be a short in the plug wires or something wrong with the ignition switch?

It runs pretty good for that couple minutes. It sounds fine and isles pretty well. I’ll double check the ISV and idle screw just to be sure though. If the fuel line hose isn’t all the way on could this result in an air leak as well by chance?

I actually had replaced the filte and the pumpr not too long ago but did have to replace the line running to the fuel rail so maybe it isn’t on their good enough? There’s no gas leaking from it so I can’t see that being an issue but it might be.

New issue now haha. The car turns on but won't stay on. It stays on for maybe a couple minutes (not even enough time to warm up to operating temp) and shuts down. It has major difficulty turning back on after shutting off. Any ideas?

Hey guys! So, I got it running. I set the timing belt pulley to TDC and aligned the distributor. Double checked everything and it started! I appreciate you guys helping me out with this!

Yes because that is what I was told to do by a family member who works on cars was to mess with the distributor until it is in the correct spot. Honestly setting it to TDC just seems better and easy to do

Also thank you guys for all your help! It is greatly appreciated.

SO here is where we are at today. Dox I did not see your comment until now I apologize. I noticed the plug wires needed to be moved one place clockwise and now the car is closer to starting. Today I got a MEAN backfire when trying to turn it over again (something to worry about??). What I want to do is what Dox said. Set it to TDC and then set the distributor to the correct position. Can I rotate the crank pulley with a spanner with the wheels on the ground? or do both front wheels need to be lifted in order to turn it? (sorry if dumb question haha)

Hey guys so the rotor was flipped away from the line, so I flipped it and tried again and now the battery just sounds dead. It is a brand new battery that I got yesterday. I have tried to turn the car over probably 20-30 times since hooking up the new battery. You guys think the battery is just drained from the car not being able to turn on?

Will do! Thank you! I’ll report back in a couple minutes to let ou know if that worked

Everything is connected and it is not damaged. I will double check for spark. I am curious if the distributor wasn't lined up correctly and threw the timing out of whack.

Hey guys! So here is the issue. My G60 was having stalling issues when it got up to operating temperature so I got a new distributor in order to replace the hall sender. The car sat for about a month and a half before I was able to work on it. I also replaced the battery because my old one was in pretty rough shape when I tried starting the car after replacing the distributor. Now here is my issue: my car won't start at all after replacing the distributor. I made sure that the wires were going to the right places and everything like that, but the car won't turn over. It almost sounds like it is out of gas but I made sure that there is gas in it. Is this just a timing thing since I just replaced the distributor? Or do you guys think this is something else? Thank you!