Kevin Bacon

I think the freezing just stops the poly melting and clogging the blade up but if it cuts OK at room temp, even better! I just think people have pre-conceptions about rear turbos. Chief among them being lag because of the pipework length. Plus the other thing that's a bit of hassle is having to use an electric scavenger pump for the oil drain. I remember speaking to Julian at BalanceMotorsport about it a good 4 or 5 years ago now. He tried it on his Pug 205. He said it was no laggier than a normal turbo setup, which is good news as that's a little 4 pot. We have socking great 3.2 litre lumps, so tonnes more exhaust gas to spin it up with. I'm thinking a GT30 size might work better for a mild boost setup and I was also thinking of using a ceramic bearing turbo, so no need to worry about oil feeds and drains. TBH, a cheap old Chinese job is perfect for an experiment like this! I'm sure I've read the stock injectors are good for 320hp, maybe 350hp if you use a 5 bar regulator. That's why I would be aiming for no more than 8spi if I did it and I want it to look bone stock under the bonnet too! Or how about a couple of K04 turbos? Should be able to grab those for a £100 each from a scrappy. There's bags of room at the back where the 4 Motion / R32 rear silencer normally hangs :D Ah, you're doing it in a Corrado. I keep thinking you're doing it to a Bora because of your user name!

Tyres are better now than they've ever been! They all have to meet standard load and wear index ratings, but uneven wear is dictated by the car or how it's driven. I've never had any uneven wear issues :) Is your TT lowered? My R32 (similar chassis setup) has Pilot Sport 3s and there's about 3mm left on them. All 4 have worn evenly. If yours is wearing the inner edges and it's standard, you might have worn control arm bushes? It's very common on that platform to wear the rear tyres if it's lowered, or if the alignment is off because of wear. P.S. I've had droning from the rear of my Corrado when it had cheapo GSF bearings in it. They had the required amount of play, but when taking them out, the shells were scored and the bearings discoloured. Cheap shyte metal!

Yep, Big Ben has it now! I met you at a Stealth Rolling road day, Christ, must have been 2007 or 2008? I think you and I put down the best hp of the day :D

Steak knife, lol :D I read somewhere that it's best to freeze a poly mount over night before hacksawing it. Nice idea on the rear turbo. Thought about that myself a few times to send a nice and gentle 8psi up to the front without cocking about with spacers and things. This company have been doing rear turbos for a while now - http://ststurbo.com/ The exhaust note is epic with the turbine so close to the tailpipe!

I'm going to use a picture of his mum to sell some BDSM products.

Sounds good. AGU used to be THE 20V turbo to have, because of it's 'big port' head. Then they started sticking AGU heads onto BAM blocks. Then they eventually realised the AGU head actually makes little to no difference and just starting sticking complete BAMs in again! The 2.0 FSI / TFSI / TSI engines are now going through the same kind of "use this head on that block and get 4 billion more hp" type discussions :D

Yeah good shout on Bar-Tek. Have you seen how cheap their R32 Schrick cams are? :D Anyway, I digress. 280hp as a daily is fine on the AGU. As mentioned, my mate did that to his MK4 GTI. Bigger manifold, bigger side mount and the K04-01 turbo (from the Audi B5 RS4) and it made 280hp and around 300 torque all day long. Stealth mapped it after AmD made an utter pigs ear of it and he's put 30-40K on it since then with no issues. The motor is original too and well over 200K. Used the original clutch for over 60K of that too!!

Adapator plate - phew! I suspected as much because he suggested refitting the OBD1 ISV and pipes. That wouldn't be possible if the throttle flange was OBD2!

Need to see pictures of it but as above, the bolt spacing for OBD2 is different. Hopefully the guy just had an adaptor plate made up, rather than welding an OBD2 flange onto it.

Cheers for the kind words chaps :D Doesn't have to be a fancy tubular manifold, just something like this - http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-components-18t-exhaust-manifold-high-flow-stock-fit-18t-p-784.html With the AGU you will be limited by the strength of the internals though, and it's an old engine with old management, old cable throttle, old injectors etc etc. The BAM is stronger internally, has decent management, decent injectors and DBW, so you can add cruise control etc if you wanted. It's your choice though :D The AGU will be fine so long as you don't exceed much more than 300hp.

I reckon either the MAF is shot, or you have a massive air leak downstream of it.

Another thing I've seen on 1.8Ts with bigger turbos is the exhaust struggling to escape the cylinders, which can bend a rod. The ports on the AGU fanimold are ridiculously small. So you'll need an aftermarket high flow manifold if you want to get serious. IMO, you'd be better of getting a BAM from a TT or a Leon Cupra R engine.

Probably best to ask that on UK-MKIVs to be honest but my mate put a K04-01 turbo on his AGU and made about 280hp with an uprated side mount. They can't really take much more than that. They have the same rods as a 16V! BAM is a lot stronger.

She'll come back to me when the new man can't satisfy her in the same way I did ;) Be warned Mr Aqvila, she is a high maintenance mistress :D Yeah 2 weeks would do it! It has a static current draw of 1 amp. It should be 0.1 amps. I never got round to pulling all the fuses to see which circuit is drawing the current but from reading related threads on it on here, it's likely to be the central locking relay box.

Actually, some basic man maths puts an R32 at around 375hp from 8 psi of boost from a turbo, and about 330-350 from a charger, depending on parasitic losses.

Hmmm, possibly not. I remember the old VF Engineering R32 kits ran 6 psi on stock 11.3:1 compression, but they probably pulled the timing way back to compensate. For a 12V, I ran 12psi on mine without a spacer and stock head bolts, but I'd recommend a spacer & ARP bolts for anything over 8 personally.

You had a Q7 engine in your Bora?! Blimey, that sounds fun! How big was the engine? I knew R32s weren't terribly rapid before buying mine, but I'm in it for the long game :D Yeah that was what I had in mind too, around 350hp with a turbo or Rotrex. 8 psi from his royal turboness would get that easily and it's well under the stock intake bursting pressure too! I think you can even run the stock injectors at up to 350 horse too and it won't stress the MAF out too much either, so yeah, shouldn't be horribly expensive to do. LOL, coming from the country where FedEx come to them to pick it up! Lazy sod.

How long had the car been left for the battery to go flat? I put a big old Varta in just before selling it! I shall be monitoring this thread :)

You wouldn't get fuel or spark if it was the crank sensor but definitely get it scanned with VCDS. Complete failure to start usually is crank sensor or immobiliser related though. Possibly ignition switch too.

Not if the person sending it puts it down as a gift or returns on the export paperwork.

Bloody hell, I'd be ripping that down (in a hazardous waste suit / respirator obviously) based purely on it's flimsiness and lack of weather sealing :lol: I could be wrong, but wasn't it repeated exposure to asbestos dust that caused the health problems? Brake pads used to be made of asbestos (and bloody brilliant they were too) which meant lots of dust potentially drawn into car cabins, but it was never exposed as an issue in passenger cars and buses?

Best of both worlds. Beefy grunt below 4000rpm, beefy grunt above 4000rpm :D I've been giving thought to a nice 8psi turbo kit for my MK4. Not being able to pull away from Vectra CDTIs until 100mph is wearing thing now :lol:

If the engine continues to run after being force started, it sounds to me like a bad battery or bad earth. The fuel pump and / or ignition coils aren't getting enough juice during cranking. The earth could be fine to the starter motor as it's a chuffing great strap direct to the battery, but the ground stack under the battery could be corroded up.

That's what you notice the most, improved throttle response. If you have ~ 200hp to begin with, you won't FEEL another 5-10hp tbh.

Pet hair seems to weld itself to sofas and carpet! You're not wrong about them yanking carpet off it's grippers. Small rugs that aren't firmly attached to the floor, socks, money, pens and small pets can all end up in the Kirby, never to be seen again :lol: