MarkGolf

Hi Guys, I've got all 3 vibratechnic mounts, aside from the engine looking like it's sat on the ****, resolved with a shim I made, I find that the engine can be wobbled by hand and if I rev the car, it moves more than I would expect, not enough to hit the bonnet but this just seems a bit loose. Everything is tight as can be. Is this normal for this setup or is there a problem? Thanks, Mark

I've noticed it do this before but its not happened enough to annoy me like today.. It seems that everytime i touch the throttle, be it soft or hard, the car will splutter and want to cut out, sometimes actually cutting out, I'll restart and when it eventually restarts it'll just not want to rev even with my foor down, it'll then get past the splutter and rev up! I'm not sure what could be causing this.. My air filter being all the way down by where the horns are, walbro pump, blah blahh... Everything is brand new as of about 1000 miles now, new coilpack, schmimmel leads, Denso plugs etc etc (iff it is electrical) It is an OBD1 from a Corrado Anyone have any clues? I still have the OBD2 plug next to the ask tray, would VAG COM still work through this if I could get it... Help help, i want to make it to Holland next week! Thanks

Hi, I'm curious to know if there is a difference in the Corrado and Golf VR6 shifters? I did a search and found differences in the towers but im interested to know if there is somethign else which gives a better feel.. I only ask because I have a corrado shifter and it feels like crap (Stick in pot of paint) I have a gruven short shift installed which I thought would fix things and I've just ordered a new bushing kit. Two friends have VR6 Golfs, one with 50k and one with 130k and their shifter both feel much better, they slot straight in and they've never had bushes changed or the like.. My shifter has covered 92k.. Just wondered if there is a difference between shifters to give a different feel or is mine probably just worn?! Thanks

Hi, I know alot of people on here have Mk4 rear calipers. I need to adjust the handbrake as I have a spongey pedal at the moment. In the car, the cables are fully tightened and the handbrake still comes up fairly high, how do I adjust the bits on the rear of the mk4 caliper? Cheers

AHHHHHHH!! It really is one thing after another on this bloody thing.. I cured an air leak I had the other day and I thought I'd start her up and get her upto temperature and go up and down the road.. So I turn car on, let it idle, rev it a bit and it rev'd fine as it always has.. I pulled out and went down the road, turned around, put my foot right down, it starts to go and then CUT, engine dies and clocks reset.. I turned it off, back onto ignition and noticed no pump, speedo needle hovering around and a crazy clicking so I thought it was the fuel pump relay, dropped the fuse box to find it was the ECU relay. I had a spare 109 which I suspected was blown from a previous problem and it just clicked in the same way.. The 109 realy is from a Corrado as I have a full Corrado setup in the car.. I had a relay from a 16v GTI which I thought I'd try out, the fuel pump came alive when the key was just in the ignition but as soon as I turned the key to the usual live position, the pump would turn off..At least I know the pump works.. So, why would the relay blow, can I by pass it? Does anyone have any 109's, got a feeling I'm going to need a few! Thanks!!

It does it just sitting on the spot, the car will rev perfectly.. It is 100% in the engine, after doing 1 of many test runs, the inlet manifold was only held on by 2 bolts and it was pretty dark, upon each 'pop' a flash of light could be seen through the join of the upper and lower manifolds.. The idle is very lump too! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g_2EBlAusU Since that video I've fitted a brand new coilpack and removed my denso plugs and fitted the rated NGK items.. It has NO misfire now, just a lumpy idle, overfueling and the popping! I'm stumped, it doesn't even sound like a VR6 when it's rev'd :s I did strip the engine down on Saturday, with the timing tool in place on the cams, the timing marks on the crank pulley lined up perfectly so I assume the timing is fine.. I have brand new schimmel leads, new plugs, new coilpack so the ignition side of things is fine.. The only 'old' items are, MAF, Lambda, TPS and CPS..

Hi, My newly built VR6 sometimes sounds a 'POP' noise.. It's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from but it is from inside the engine, nothing surrounding. It's not continuous or at regular intervals, just now and then.. A friends seems to think it's possibly an air leak or a slight misfire but to me there doesn't appear to be a misfire.. Any ideas? ThANKS

Does anyone know why there are 2 different types? Thanks

Cheers, all wired up but not tested as yet! A friend of mine who was round mentioned that I should just join all 3 wires together and join to the fan lives... He's normally very good with wiring so he has put some doubt into my mind.. :?

Hi Kev, I'm running 2 9"s... Do you know what colour the speed 1 wire is? I know I have 2 thick and 1 thin live's.. Red/Green and red/? and the thin red/white... Cheers!

Hi, Whats the best way to wire these without it looking like a bodge job? Am I right in thinking that I need to join the 3 main live's to the fan live? cheers

I'm trying to get my piece of crap car to start, it just turns over and over and over! (It is a Corrado lump/setup in my Golf ex 1.4) I'm getting a spark, I have fuel in the fuel line as I found out painfully, but after a few cranks, I decided to pull the manifold off and check the tips of the injectors which were dry as a bone and no smell of fuel at all! Could someone please tell me anything and everything that could relate to these not working,ecu, some sort of pulse sensor, what pins on the ecu control them etc etc!! I have all the correct relays, 109 from the corrado.. Good earths, loom has been extended but connections are all there.. Cheers!

Hi, I need help pretty urgently! Basically I'm getting NO power to the fuel pump, nothing at all! Can't seem to find why it's not being triggered.. Need to see where Z1 goes from the fusebox.. I have a Bentley but does this cover the OBD1 Corrado? HELP HELP! If anyone has pictures of the 3 white loom plugs too, it has been mentioned that some pins look like they are missing from mine.. Thanks (Also after a 4bar fuel pump but i'll put up an ad in wanted) cheers

Trying to bleed the brakes on my Golf, it's a full new system, all dry throughout! Basically I can pump the brake pedal and NO fluid is being taken, I can feel air coming out of the vacuum pipe, doesn't appear to be any other air leaks.. The servo is chrome, the m/c was removed from the corrado I had and it was wokring when it last worked.. I thought the chrome has probably blocked something but the pedal moves. The last one I had was actually bloked and wouldn't allow the brake pedal to move! Anyway, not even the clutch cylinders are pulling fluid from the bottle, they just swish it around so I'm miffed, do I need to get it vacuumed? Cheers! I've always been able to do my brakes but thats just when I've done a fluid change or fitted goodridge lines, never done a full dry new system...

I've basically just put my car back together and minus the starter motor which has failed, it's ready to start! Out of curiousity I wanted to see if I could hear the fuel pump working or get some sort of idea that something was going on.. I turned the key expecting to hear it whizzing away but nothing! A friend had his car round which is also a VR6 which actually works and he uses (unlike mine) and his was dead silent too.. Now, even without my starter motor plumped in, I would have thought the fuel pump would prime and start circulating fuel or soemthing? Can anyone shed any light? I'll get my mulimeter on the end 2 pins on the fuel pump plug sometime this week

Did go down to 12.4 or so.. To be sure, I borrowed the battery from my M3 and the starter did the same thing, just alot faster! Not too clued up on starter but hoping it's a solenoids problem! It just shoots in and out, I would have thought if the solenoid was ok it would just hold the cog out rather than pule it in and out... Damn annoying!

http://s45.photobucket.com/albums/f99/M ... V00856.flv

Turned the key with the starter removed and the cog which turns the flywheel just shoots back and forth and sounds like a machine gun. It doesn't spin! I can spin it by hand though...

Defo not the batt, putting out 12.86V at the battery and starter motor.. Have pulled the starter off and checking it but all seems ok tbh! The bit that shoots out is possibly a little stiff but not too much force is required to pull it out so I'm not really sure now! Did try the hammer trick beforehand too!

lol! Yeah Got a new Optima but it's at my g/f's parents house in San Francisco!! Flying out there to see them with her on the 10th, knew I should have booked it for this month! :brickwall:

Found this too which is pretty good, logical but helpful http://wwww.clubgti.com/forum/archive/i ... -4442.html

Got battery on charge so will try again in a few hours

Just tried to fire my car for the first time since it's buildbut starter motor just clicks! The starter has been pulled to pieces at one point due to chrome bits so is the problem with the starter motor being jammed or a low battery? Cheers

Cheers buddy! It'll be run N/A to start with through it's run in period e.t.c and for a little bit after.. What are the benefits of 5w over 10w? thanks

Hello For my 3.0 VR which will be rotrex'd.. What really is the best oil, now I know I always hear about Synta Silver but is it really the best stuff for an engine which is driven quite hard and rev'd high? 10w-40 or 5w-40? Also, what plugs, again, now I've always believed a spark is a spark so I've got the recommended NGK ones but would I be better off getting some Denso iridium things? Cheers!