MarkGolf

I just relaised I didn't get the centre nuts with my kit. Re-used teh old ones but went over the picture and noticed 2 x nuts

Whats the situation with this... What could hppen with using a normal Golf VR6 one with no metal plate on the top....

cover comes off...

Here it is! Not arrived here as yet

I dind't buy that one, I bought a chrome one from germany and the guy said it came from a Corrado VR6 so I assume its got the same features as the Corrado one I just sold in terms of being 'high flow' when compared to the Golf items and that it will fit my standard corrado T/B!! It bloody better! lol I paid £260 for my chrome one inc shipping and sold my standard polished one for £210!!! REASSUREEE MEEEEE

Good stuff! Mine has it, phew! Cheers

I just bought a manifold similar to the above one.. I have a 94 Corrado lump and wondering (bit late now) if my throttlebody will fit ok.. I don't know if the above manifold was for another variation of fitment like the different between eary and late VR's blah blah cheers

That's what I thought! PM-ed you Paul

As the title really... Are all 2.9 intake manifolds the same, i.e, would one from a golf syncro work with a stock 2.9 corrado T/B? Thanks

I got done by Caludia! Owes me £110, got £105 back from ebay! Owes a aguy I know over £1000!! I got my fidanze from gripforce, came quick and was only £210!! To those reinforced clutch arm thingies from EIP actually do anything???

Perfect!! Nice one, shuldn't of bothered smoothing my bay..lol Thanks!

Is anyone running this setup?? I wanna see pics of VR's with the short intake and S/C as I want to see the layout of the pipework to the throttble body! I'm thinking about getting one of these but dont think i'll get away with getting the pipework to the throttble body from the charge.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1

Umm, quite sad but Im actually a bit put off at the thought of loosing the VR noise, especially since I haven't even run the Golf with the VR lump as yet... That aside, im quite tempted to go for this until my house/porsche purchase has settled down (then schimmel) Seems to be the best of the bunch on ebay.. May even make one like this out of a normal Golf 2.8 mani.. Just not to sure.... Would like to see figures on the dyno of the differences between a short intake against a normal corrrado intake.. Thanks Advice and info still appreciated... (Recommendations on TB wud be good too)

Just wondered, I came across a few of these manifolds on ebay, I know they are normally used when doing a turbo conversion but can you use them with an N/A and S/C VR? I personally can't see why they can't be used but then Im no genius... I'm quite up for trying one out if no one really knows! I want to buy a schimmel but with a retrim and apartment coming, cna't afford one!

Could my chains be fucked? I did buy them brand new from GSF... I forgot the make but I still have one of the boxes somewhere (Blue box if that helps) I kind of think it could be a dodgy chain but then again, how can it be.. NO MATTER how many times I turn it, the timing mark is ALWAYS 3mm out when spun anti clockwise, I gave 16 rotations to find this! When it comes to anti clockwise rotation, its perfect EVERYTIME! I know this is wrong, but I did it as a test.. Maybe I need to take the chains off and fiddle with the sprockets, pull them back slighty and hope this makes up for the 3mm.. Bed time, getting a headache!

Hello Its a bugger, I just don't know why it goes wrong when being turned clockwise but is 100% perfect when turned anti clockwise! Only turned it anti clockwise to see what would happen Paul which then gave me the weird outcome of being perfect.. Would this indicate that there is a probably with the chain tension? Not had time to work on getting it right but I really am stumped!! New chains, new tensioners, no slack in the chains.. I just can't see where its gone wrong.. 3mm out after turning crank 4 full revolutions clockwise Perfect when turning crank 4 full revolutions anti clockwise When turning anti clockwise, the lower tensioner FULLY compresses, thats the only difference that I can see between turning clockwise and anti clockwise! Going to have another go after work tomorrow, I'll probably end up pulling it apart and starting over, even though I've done this already! I have spare sprockets, may try those out for the sake of it! This is more of a head fuck than trying to work out a womans mind!

The engine crank pulley side directly in front of me.. Front of engine is at my right hand side and rear of engine is at my left hand side.. I had a go at trying to see what was giving the minor 3mm movement but couldn't quite see.. All I coudl see was when turning the engine clockwise, the LOWER tensioner compressing a little, it didn't do this when turning the engine anti clockwise but that is due to the direction of the chain movement so I understand that..

Right, just been out fiddlin with the engine.. Everything is in line with each other, all timing marks point in the direction they are meant to and all correlate.. When turning the engine over CLOCKWISE, no matter how many revolutions I give it, the crank pulley timing mark is always 3mm past the timing mark on the block before the cam locking tool sits flat and slides in and out comfortably! I can however, bring the crank BACK 3mm so it all looks correct and the tool still slides in and out comfortably!! However, if I turn the engine and match the crank pulley timing marks up as text book suggests, the tool requires a little effort to get it to slide into the cams.. THE TWIST! If I rotate the engine ANTI CLOCKWISE, it is PERFECT! I can stop the crank pulley on the timing mark and the cam tool slides in and out perfectly EVERYTIME, 2 revolutions, 4 revolutions, 6 and so on.... Does this indicate anything? Im not sure if I can leave it and assume its OK... Thanks

iI've followed a bentley and Russel manual.. The engine is hanging in my garage, all brand new parts bar the sprockets. New OE gasket.. The timing marks are all aligned, chains are tight, tensioner bolt bled and fitted and doin its job properly, everything is textbook! As soon as you give it at least 2 full rotations, the markings are all slightly out from the block markings... 5mm on the crank pulley.. If you redo the timing over and over again, you get the same result. If you advance the intermediate sprocket, the timing goes WAYYYYYYY out and same if you reverse it.. I can't win! Cams are coorect and OE corrado, chains are OE VW, tensioners are OE, head hasn't been skimmed as its near new... What is wrong!?

No one know?

I can't quite seem to get it 100% correct.. I have the cams locked with the VAG tool, crank shaft and intermediate shaft are all lined up to correct timing marks, the top cover is placed on and tension bolt inserted, the chain is perfectly tight... So I give the crank 2 full rotations and I got to put the cam locking tool in but its VERY stiff to get it into the cam grooves. To get the tool to fit in freely, the timing mark on the crank shaft pulley has to be about 5 - 8mm past (Clockwise) the mark on the engine block.. Is this ok?? Everything bar the sprockets are brand new and if I move the intermediate sprocket one tooth back/forward on the chain, the timing is then WAY out... This is obvious anyway as one jump of the tooth on the intermediate sprocket equals quite a large jump on the crank shaft pulley timing marks Please advise! Thanks

Not 100% sure on length as yet.. (Whats everyone else had?) Can I bin the standard oil cooler? I'll be inclined to go with you :D goin le man ths year?

Hi, I've got a 13 row cooler and that is all.. I know I need a sandwich plate and hoses. I plan to pop down to think automotive this week and get myself these bits, but, is there anything else I need? What is the thing in the bag and can I bin the standard oil cooler? I have no clue when it comes to the best set up for oil coolers so any advice is good advice! Thanks p.s, what length hose do I need?

Whoopss A VR6 :D Anyone?? VW best?

Sorry is this has been done before.. But, what are the best ones to get and a rough price? Just rebuilding my spare block Thanks