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matt_corradovr6

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Everything posted by matt_corradovr6

  1. the rado was smasahed in the rear 3/4 and written off, decided was not economical to repair but i now have a new toy to play with!!!!
  2. yeah i never done this but my old man has had some canny cars and of course people have damaged them and he has got the insurers to pay for all sorts even petrol for when he went to look at another car to buy!! just actually a nightmare to find outr what is going on and i go on holiday friday!
  3. no not yet will get some on. its agreed value is 3500 with my insurance, so i want that back, and got a few on the trader of similar price. will wait and see. bit negative but might mean on to faster things!!! :)
  4. anyone know how much a new rear 3/4 and door would be? mega. one body shop quted about £1300 for labour and paint, no parts. two places said that it would be a write off, and the sill looks a bit bent, and it feels a bit loose when driving. :(
  5. if they do the same i will definately buy it back. its not mint but its not a dog. whats an engine and gearbox worth? its done 143000 miles and been maintained well, had chains and clutch done bout 20k ago and diff rebuilt
  6. ok cool. thanks dinkus. will they still pay me out for the car? i have an agreed value on it.
  7. my corrado was hit on saturday in the rear quarter and door and two body shops have written it off. How do i go about buying the car back to break it for parts?? it has leather interior nad the front wings tail gate, dash etc are in good nick and i'm sure that someone would want them as parts. just don't know how to go about gettin the car back once thay have taken it away? :( :( :(
  8. the key is stiff wehn turning and doesn't unlock the door at all. i'msuspecting the barrel is knackered. is it easy to replace trhem, maybe from a scrappie with the keys?? don't really want it in the dealers as car not really worth it
  9. My girlfriend has a 98 polo open air and the drivers door lock no longer unlocks the door, so you have to unlock from the passenger seat. just wondering what coul;d be the problem and possible solutions. new barrel and key? and if so how difficult and how expensive? thnks matt
  10. when i get up to about 80 i get a bit of a wobble in the sterring, not a great deal just a bit of vibration. then if i go a bit quicker it seems to go??? what could cause this?? suspect some sort of bushes but :? nothing came up at mot?
  11. mine looks like that apart from all the dents and stone chips ha ha
  12. B@@@er. they are gsf. i'll have to add it to the growing list fuel pump+filter tyres sump steering wheel wheel bearings front w/bone bushes tax i love my corrado
  13. will unbalanced tyres cause a drone too??? i have it coming from the back but the bearings were checked by a mechanic and deemed ok?
  14. a 220+bhp rado vr6 running 14.7 at santa pod and goes off the clock on the speedo. how quick is this in realtion to other n/a rado's??
  15. i had the same and found steering wheel was loose. nip it up tight job done.
  16. Cheers, my mate got the one from the dealer and says ita pierburg so the same i guess, but how can i tell if its a 4 bar one?? is that the uprated one. when my buddy had his rrded at storm dev it developed about 220 bhp n/a and they reckoned alot of the increse (it was 211 before) could have been down to better fuel pressure. ta :D
  17. I think that my fuel pump is about to expire. I have enquired at GSF and they have 2 for a 94 vr both around 90 quid. VW have one at £146 ithink, apparently uprated? the GSF one is Pierburg, not sure what the oe one is or if there is any difference in quality? Any help would be appreciated. Matt
  18. Fuel pump? lack of fuel pressure and no go?
  19. how do you get the switch out?? mine is knackered. lights go on, but not off again. switch feels flaky, doesn't click anymore.
  20. by passed my heater matrix for now with a nice bit of plumbing
  21. anyone got a pic of the heat exchanger and the temp sensor and where they are as my oil gets relly ho too.
  22. do these kits come in different lenghs etc ( any one have a pic?) cos i looked in b and q and the one they had was too long and did not bend enough before it split and had a fixing on the end to screw onto another fixing made of nylon
  23. heater matrix has blown and car is sat doing nothing. what is the best way to by pass the matrix so that the car can be driven. i have read about using 22mm copper pipe, but is it ok to use pipes soldered to create the right shape so that the coolant pipes remain in shape and the coolant can recirculate . was thinking 3 sections of 22mm pipe joined by two 90 degree sleeeves, soldered as per household plumbing. would this take the pressure and the heat??? :? :? :?
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