dubweiser

Possibly position 4 on the relay board..but dont quote me on that lol

efil4sbud,i didnt have to smash the old switch out mate,i managed eventually to get it out properly with no damage (apart from a couple of screwdrivers)And cheers jim,I didnt bother putting the screw back in.I put a cable tie around the back of the switch/electrical connector block and up around the steering lock.To be honest,i dont see the need for the screw.The switch cant move anywhere once its in place,and besides that,the electrical block connector pushes up onto the switch and clips in place with them two lugs on it,so surely it shouldnt be able to move.Why the need for the screw?or am i missing something.Plus,there was no way i was going to put a screw back in until at least it had been tested (if the weather ever gets hot again)incase i had the same arse on trying to get it back out.

isv?or microswitch like you say,or vacuum leak somewhere?

It wasnt my thread,as i said it came from another one on the forum.However,you can adjust it on a 2litre because i got mine set up up like this years ago and it has run fine since.

Did you check the isv?Its worth cleaning that to see if it helps.Also from another thread with similar problems...."If the engine isn't hunting when cold or hot, the CO is correct. 16Vs run best at 2.0 % CO. To achieve 2.0%, disconnect the famous "red lead" spade connector behind the coil (see fig:1 below) (after the engine is at temp), pull off the breather hose and block the airbox hole. Start the engine and the revs should plummet, if they don't, the idle valve is shagged and you're idling off the bypass screw alone. Now, with the engine running, turn the idle screw (fig: 3) up until you get 950rpm +-50. If the idle wanders or is lumpy (engine visibly rocking), insert your LONG 3mm allen key into the CO screw (fig :2) and turn it anti clock to weaken. Just prior to the engine cutting out, turn the key clockwise in 1/8th turn increments until the idle smooths out. Eventually, the engine should settle to a nice, steady idle. This will be 2.0% or very close to. Switch off and reconnect everything. Take it out for a run and when you dip the clutch, the tacho needle should gently fall to 1000rpm, not plummet. If after all that it's still missing and rough, investigate air leaks around the inlet manifold and the various vacumn hoses. If you ever need to find the controller for the ISV it's the black box with 'VDO' marked on it that's clipped to the back of the ashtray or (if someones been fiddling), shoved behind the dash in a random fashion! If you're really unlucky and the above instructions don't sort out your particular idling issue,check that the three senders on the end of the head, under the distributor are working, 2 of these control the ISV and the other is the temperature gauge sender - the senders are all the same so as long as your temperature gauge works, you can swap the wires to make sure all 3 senders actually make the temp gauge register, obviously if one doesn't work, there's your faulty sensor."

Thats crazy lol.Surely whatever way round the dipstick is?,the oil in the sump stays the same level so will give the same reading???

Its hardly aggrevation to drill a few holes.Took me no time at all and who doesnt like induction noise?Take the snorkel out and stick a cold air feed to it aswell from the front of the engine.Bobs ya fathers brother.Doesnt give a great deal of power increase if any,but every little helps and if hes gonna combine it with other mods then itl all add up.And sounds great aswell.Dont drill too many holes at first and see how the sound is before you go mad with the drill lol

http://wiki.the-corrado.net/16v_tuning_guide.html

Yeah you can fit a panel filter after its been drilled.Its just the same box but with holes in.Wont give much power increase though.Remove the snorkel from the box aswell.I drilled mine ages ago....sounds nice but doesnt really increase power much if any

Its normal for the level to rise in the expansion tank when the engine has been running.The water heats up so expands so the level rises.Then it will drop back to normal when it cools.Thats what the tank is for.If it didnt expand into there,then it would burst out of the radiator and all over the floor.Nothing to worry about mate

Im not sure there should be steam coming out of it.To make then that means there must be water somewhere to make the steam and you dont want water in your crankcase..That sounds worrying to me.Is your head gasket ok?

Finally! Got the fecker out.3 smashed screwdrivers,one scraped hand,a bad back,lots of swearing,and a mixture of about ten different size screwdrivers and various wangling of the steering wheel up and down in various positions and its out!All that for a tiny little feckin screw.Thank you vw.So,i read about cable tieing it back in.Anybody know exactly where abouts the cable tie should go?Cheers for all the advice fellas

Ok mate cheers.I need a new plan of attack.Its so bloody frustrating cos i can see where the screw is by using a mirror but just cant get to it as it seems quite far up/back

How did you get in at it mate to smash it off?

How do you tap the screw round with a hammer when ya cant even get in at it with a small screwdriver?The gap between the side of the switch and the lock housing is mm.Im trying to do this from the top.I can see where the screw is by using a mirror and looking back up towards the switch,but cant get a screwdriver that far up to get at the screw.How do you get a flat screwdriver and a hammer in any where near that?

Well,there aint a hope in hell a screwdriver will fit down the side of that switch into where the screw is.Two screwdrivers now smashed,watchmakers set all smashed and no further forward.Piece of crap

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No worries mate,i wasnt sure myself either lol.

2 litre 16v mk2 golf?Did they make them?I thought they were 1.8? so dont know if the sensor will be the same ---------- Post added at 8:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:28 PM ---------- Just checked eurocarparts driver,use discount code parts20 and takes price down to £66 ish

Ok mate,good luck hope you get it sorted.Dunno if its of interest but i got my lambda from eurocarparts (i know a lot of people will say get one from the dealers )but i seem to remember at the time money was short as always and it was a fair bit cheaper getting one from them and touch wood...several years later its been fine.Might save you a bit of cash mate

Do you not know anyone local that can come to you mate that has a plug in machine?I was lucky and know a couple of lads that own a garage near me and they help me a lot and they plugged theres into my car and it showed the fault for me.

Nice one mate,thanks for that.Hopefully will get chance to have a go over the weekend.Thanks to lizzie for an extra day holiday! Whoop whoop!

Thanks jon.I have a set of those somewhere.Do they fit without having to bend them?That is great news if they do

I was the same mate when i had that problem and in hindsight the easiest thing to do instead of chucking money away (and to stop you tearing your hair out like i did for weeks trying to solve it lol) is stick it on diagnostic machine.t took five minutes after all my fanny on to find out what the problem was.Fault showed as being the lambda.Could of saved myself cash and heartache by doin it straight away.Hope you get it fixed mate

It stopped mine from starting mate.Sometimes it would be fine and then the next time it wouldnt start.Sounded and felt like it was getting starved of fuel,then next minute would be ok.Then sometimes when it did start,i couldnt get the revs up above maybe 1500rpm or so,again it sounded like it was being starved of fuel.I went down the route of getting all the ignition electrics checked,got new leads,rplaced fuel filter etc and still no difference.Then i got the lambda replaced and it fixed it straight away.