sambo

10%!

How do ladies and gents, just felt like having a go and try top speed of my 2.0 valver(on a private airfield 'course), and it nearly redlined in 5th! Run out of space but it was still pulling! Clock was showing 142mph! :shock: Only mods i have is a perf filter and a kr cam, oh yea and 158k miles. Anyone else had a go at trying top speed? On a private road course :wink:

Back to the topic, i was told by a local well established r/r rally specialist that in most cases on most cars removing the cat makes ef all difference especially vw as they are very good(flow wise). Whenever they de-cat the car they do a r/r sess before and after, sometimes car even looses torque!

Welcome, if you want help with anything you are in the right place but you first got to ask a qstn! :wink:

Engine i'v got has tasty mods and it will run itb-s so vr power will be there its just the fact i also have a mk2 i wanted to stick my lump in!

I have complete engine with 3k on the clock since full rebuild on my garage floor with manifold and all that, this may be deciding point if i should put it in! If i do it means keeping the car, but i wanted a vr. Hmmmmm....decisions,decisions

Ok i knew for a while that my exhaust is leaking on the rear joint of the CAT, but i'v also noticed my manifold has two cracks. Will this affect performance/fuel consumption? Its a 2.0l 16v C. Cheers

yes i did and you could hear switch clicking, anyway i'v just put throttle body together and cleaned out connections on the plug and put whole back in the car. Started the car and warmed it up took it for a spin and all its well! :D :D Reset my mfa and it was showing 27mpg after few miles round town, which is much better than i managed on m-way last week! Well happy cheers for all input you all

Well today i'v priced up new microswitch assembly, £58 +vat! So i decided to get it open and check what could be wrong. Its a sealed unit so hacksaw came in handy. Got it open and all thats inside is two microswitches! One for fully open th body and one for closed th body. Nothing to go wrong really, tested ok with a multi meter all the way to the plug so i think only thing it could of been wrong with it is the actual connection. Will clean it out, reassemble and try it on the car. Will update. p.s. what a rip off ey? Over £60 for 2 switches!

Ok, i'v just removed the throttle body and i'v discovered microswitch is a bit more complex than i thought, it is in fact also a throttle pot sensor. didnt know they used em on ke-jet with motronic ecu. No wonder my idle was all over the place. Gona try fixing the broken wire first and if it doesnt work out will have to buy a new one. Anyone knows how much it costs?

I'v just had another look at all things relevant and as i was fiddling with a microswitch wire, idle went to normal! Yey, i think its a bad connection or a broken wire, result anyway, will post back ones i remove the throttle body for further inspection

They havnt got a thermotime switch but a proper water temp sensor that varies resistance as it warms up, might disconnect that and all and check how it goes, cheers for all replies lads

Fuelling ey? ok than, i think i'l disconnest 5th injector first so i can rule it out but than where do i go from there? It is heavy on fuel 25mpg at most!

isv - cleaned micro switch checked,ok lambda is the only other thing beside isv that could be faulty, i think i will try and borrow one of my mate and try it, see how it affects the idle. Any other possibilities? I just run the car for 25 miles with isv disconnected and idle remained at 1000rpm for most of the time but then itwent up to 1500rpm for a while! I am confused now, how can it change with isv disconnected?

I think i'v read somwhere ex mani-s a very difficult to weld, not sure tho. Your electrics should be fine with batt disconnected

are motronics ecu-s "inteligent" like digi on your g60? I thought they are not as clever as that, could be wrong tho?

Some good times there boys! Best i managed was 16secs at inters last year in my 2.0l valver. Maybe just needs a good remapp?

It is heavy on fuel, 26mpg at best and it is a bit lumpy on idle, will sort it soon! Cheers

Was it the same strip, same conditions, same timing gear? It all has effect i guess

Sorry, 2.0l 16v

I have a small leak on joint just after the cat, will it affect how car runs and idles?

:mad: Stupid idle is driving me mad now! Every time i start my car it idles at different speed. Sometimes 800rpm, other times 500rpm but mostly it goes up to 1800rpm! Just now car was fully warmed up and it idled at 1500rpm, if i pinch a vacum hose to isv, it drops to normal which tells me isv is fully open. Checked voltage to it and it had full 12.5v. Surely it shouldnt be getting voltage this high ones engine is fully warmed up? Does ecu control it or is there a sensor that controls the voltage directly? Please help as the mot is due and its also driving me bonkers! :mad:

18mpg.........now that rado thinks it's a dodge viper! I thought mine was bad

Thats it! I am gona get a vr after reading that. anyone wants a slightly thirsty but very tidy valver? :wink:

I went by calculations not the mfa, in my previous c with my rebuilt 9a, ported/polished head 264-s cams runing on k-jet, it used to average 32mpg, that is with hard driving most of the time! On a slow m-way run 80mph i used to see nearly 40mpg! So i know these engines can perform well and be economical at the same time, so something is deffinetly not right