sambo

Today at scrappy i'v spoted th bodie that seems wicked, honda accord v-tech, looks like with a bit of modding to manifold it would bolt on quite nicely, its huge and looks allot like fire breather!

I had same problem with my headlight switch, both inner bulbs gone, was quoted £46 or something stupid so i decided to fix it. All you need is a steady hand and patience as the job is fiddly. Go to maplin or cpc(they do mail order) and purchase 2 very small bulbs 12v, 65mA, and solder them in, hey presto switch that can be seen and found!

I'v strpiped out my previous valver, not sound deadning and carpets tho, and at inters it did 7.3 sec to 60mph and 16sec qtr mile, in damp conditions with blocked fuel pipe. I think i,v lost about 100 kilos! I'm on the lookout for shabby C to make a proper stripped out racer, i loved the way it went, handled and stoped!

If i ewas you i would get second opinion, and also try adjusting axle first, you got nothing to loose :!:

I think you should replace shocks in pairs only, also check your bushes. Mk2 valver rear shocks are same i think

Do chek all vacum hoses for splits/ leaks, and also all conectors for clean connections. Also take your idle screw out and clean it in petrol including making sure throttle body is clean. Do check the"crap flap", air meetering flap for cleanliness as it tends to get caked in oil drawn from breather pipe. Something mighte be sticking or chocking. Hope this helps

To be honest mate you cant brake nothing or make it worse by loosening mounting bolts, if its anything like mine axle will actualy "pop" back into position where it was after you loosen last bolt. Just use tape measure and a good old naked eye to alighn it as good as poss. U 'l be fine :D

Not sure i would wona be shimming rear stub axles but there is allot of play on mounting bolts ones loosened, so it is deffinitely adjustable! Mine is spot on now

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9v would be the voltage, its good 3.5 v down on what it should be! The pump should still run but not as fast. Deffo electrical problem, check all devices again for poor connection like fuse, relay and all earth connections

Now i know that after suspension change i should take the car for camber/tracking alighment but to be honest i think i got lucky because car doesnt pull to any side, brakes straight and handles as it should. You guys recon i should get it done anyway?

Yea it has spring loaded steel ball built in the shaft, you know the kind that lives on the end of the socket rachet but biger, box looks identical and was 5 speed, the mounting holes are identical to :roll: Think its just the stupid ball preventing the tower from sloting in. Didnt get the cables and the shifter tho :oops: By the way how do they come out of housing? When i broke my last C i couldnt get the damn cables and shiffter out :?:

Spotted a mk4 in brakers today, not sure what model it was, took off shiffting mech of the box, but when tryed fitting to my 02A box its not going all the way in, i'v noticed that shaft is different, it has a spring loaded ball built in the shaft and seems a bit shorter, so im gona try and make one out of two. Also cables end connectors are different. Maybe i got wrong shiffter :?: Help Phatvr6, more details :?:

Stevemac..... you was right! Slackened all 6 mounting bolts and hey presto, lots of movement in all directions, got it centered as good as poss., than fitted my adjust. koni-s with eibach springs and eibach arb to it, and new pair of FK Konigsport fully adjustable struts up front with bonrath uprated top mounts. Handles like a lotus elise :D . Next step is going to be poly bushes all round and front eibach arb, should be even better :mrgreen: Thanks for all help

Cheers Stevemac, Will take axle off and compare it with other spare one i have. I'v just striped my spare axle of all bits so i can paint it and fit all good bits of "maybe bent one". I have new polly bushes already fitted to my spare axle so hopefully it will qure the problem. Think i will fit my adyustable koni-s and eibach arb at the same time :D

Does anyone know for sure if rear axle has any play in mountings so i could try adjusting it? Has anyone done it? Help please :(

Dinkus:....Definitely get a 4 wheel alignment done to see how far it's out. If the other wheel is also out by a similar amount then you can twist the whole axle around on the mounting bolts, but otherwise it's rahter expensive Come to think of it when i said other side is fine i'm not so sure now because i was concentrating on n/s wheel. If i stand behind a car and look down the side of each rear wheel, n/s is toeing out and if i look down the side of o/s rear wheel it points to middle of front wheel even tho i got 20mm spacers on rear. Makes me think that whole axle has moved and its not paralell with front subframe. Sorry if my explanation isnt clear :oops: , but just trying to establish most probable cause before i start spending money :|

I had a 4 wheel alighning laser thingy on and it shows that n/s wheel is out by quite allot but other side is fine, thats why i think it is the trailing arm thats bent :( Like i said have got whole spare axle of earlier valver, are they same?

It was pulling away from rest, turning sharply left, but didnt realise the wall was there! So it was a quite sharp angle and it made whole rear end jolt!

How do folks. Few days ago i hada little accident, hit rear lower qtr panel against stupid foot high brick wall at petrol stat :( Damaged panel quite badly but also bent something as my rear n/s wheel isnt pointing straight (toe out) so my steering is affected. Not pulling to any side but steering wheel isnt centered straight, if you know what i mean. Anyway was advised that it could be stub axle, changed that but no joy. So is it axle trailing arm thats bent or the shassis? What is easyer to bend? Help please :cry: I have early 1.8 valver C rear axle i could use, is it same as 94 2.0l valver one? Thanks

Deffo worth doing, i fitted one to mine and its a different car to drive :D Gone is the asthmatic feel and now it has mk216v kind a reviness. Oh and 157 lb/ft torque :!:

I had koni/eibach top adjustable set up on mine, with poly bushes all round, eibach arb-s and strut braces. Handling was awesome even on softest setting due to arb-s controling the roll but only down side was the ride hight, hardly any lower than saggy standard set up :roll:

I am looking to graft 4 throttle bodies of a bike on my 9a valver, 1 per manifold intake tube, 42mm each butterfly, should be able to pass more air than air flap can supply :mrgreen: Should be interesting, as it will be effectively k-jet on throttle bodies :!: Just need some spare time :(

Done now, lots of penetrating oil and a whack with a soft hammer!

Just tryed changing my stub axle, all unbolted and came off apart from stuborn abs sensor which is stuck within rusty stub axle! Any advice how to remove it? I'v cleaned it as much as poss and soaked it in wd40. Can i try gently knocking it out? Thanks