JBOB

Mines a 1.8 :D If your sender is missing then the wire to it might be earthing somewhere. Mine goes from the sender over towards the back of the airbox.

My car was doing this when I first got it. Its was the sensor on the front left of the rocker cover, its plastic sleeve was missing and the braded fuel line was touching it making the fan come on. Hope that helps :roll:

:lol: :lol: :lol: Their that good then Steve :lol: Ive still got the electrician coming round tomorrow to give the car a once over 8)

NO id wasn’t VRVW as id rather cut my :!: off and eat them before they ever touched my car :lol: I know the owners ex girlfriend and lets just say that the court date is nearly here :x B******

Some very cool pics mate 8) Im not a big fan of red C's but yours looks cool 8) I knew I recognized the back ground in the second pic :D A friend of mine (Who i haven’t seen in a few years :oops:) lives not far from you in Fremmington (im not sure if that’s how you spell it :lol: ) There’s a really nice fish and chip shop along that row of shops inst there :roll: :lol:

That’s what I thought Steve but the only people to change the rotor arm is my brother who’s an Audi mechanic and also has a 16v Corrado so he knows what he’s doing and a garage in Bradford that did a service for me :roll: The only reason the garage had it was because my bro was in New Zealand for 6 months (lucky git :lol: ) I cant really remember how long ive had this [problem but I dont remember asking the garage to check it out for me so must have been when they had it :x I cant find a good garage in West Yorks and driving 200miles to Amersham Audi to have my bro work on it is getting a bit silly :(

Everyone keep your fingers crossed as I think its fixed :D I got the new dizzy today and told the G/F that it was very important that I get it fitted ASAP so I couldn’t go shopping with her :lol: First thing I noticed was that the old one has some very deep scratches and a bloody big dent in the metal casing inside (Bad pics below :oops: ) Fitted the new one made sure all the timing was a close as possible (never been very good at timing :oops: ) and fired it up.........started first time and went straight to a VERY steady 1k rpm :D :D :D got the timing sorted with the strobe and once warm did the valver set up procedure I found on the net. The car now not only idles perfectly but sounds and drives much better 8) Im not sure if the electrics were affected by the dents in the dizzy but everything seems fine now. Big thanks to Steve for helping me out so much and next time your back in Leeds Ill buy you a drink or two :D

Thanks for the offer Bobby but Ive bought it today :lol: Should arrive tomorrow and ill try to find some time over the weekend to get it fitted :roll: £40 inc del brand new still in its VAG box cant be a bad deal that 8) Ill let you guys know how I get on :D

Thanks Steve what would I do without you :D Bet your glad you dont live in Leeds anymore as Id probably be round most weekends :lol: :lol: Ive got a local sparky to come and have a look on Monday. Ive also spent most of this afternoon cleaning ALL (That I can find) of the electrical connections and checking the wiring then went to check the idle and found that it still shivers :lol: but turning all the electrics makes no difference anymore :roll: :roll: So im gonna buy the dizzy seeing as its only £40 and then see what the sparky has to say :D

I was told that if the Hall sender is faulty then it can cause idle problems once the engine has warmed up. Have i been told a load of BS :lol: My cars idle does seem to be worse once warm !!!! Im gonna get a sparky to look at it as soon as I get paid, moving house is expensive :lol:

Right I haven’t had time to sort an electrician yet as Im just moved house :roll: which also means that im on dial up til Monday when BT turn my BB on :roll: Its so slow :lol: The problem is still there but ive been advised that it could be the Hall sender causing the problems but TBH i dont know what symptoms a dodgy Hall sender would cause :oops: Ive also been told that its easier to change the whole dizzy than it is to change the HS alone :roll: The good thing is though that a mate down in London has a brand new VAG 16v dizzy still in its box and only wants £40 I haven’t a clue how much these are from VAG but id bet its more than that :lol: So can anyone say that the HS could be causing the probs and should I get the new dizzy :D

This maybe :oops: Corrado Database (Yellow)

Im lost :roll: From what ive read on this thread corradowales was having a friendly p*** take of jamescorrado due to the IMO very childish threads that have been on the forum lately (and im not trying to start an argument with anyone !!! ive purposely haven’t posted on those threads for a reason) I think you may have gotten the wrong end of the stick Critical_Mass Critical_Mass Have you called Neil, Im still waiting for my money to clear before I can get it done. Bloody banks :lol:

:lol: Anymore ideas though Steve im stuck :oops:

My favourites

"shiver" That’s the word ive been looking for :lol: Ill keep the clocks in mind Steve but Id have to find some 16v ones as I dont think the G60 revs as high as the valver :( Might borrow them from you just to check though :D Well ive had a good look over everything today and have read that the idle should be about 950 but mine is shivering around 1050. So i did the 16v setup that I found on the net (engine hot with the red/black coil wire detached) but I found that the idle screw is wound all the way IN so wont let me adjust the idle down any further :( If I detach the ISV the revs drop right down nearly stalling and stays down if I plug it back in so could it be a faulty ISV ???? While the engine was warm i tried turning on all the electrics like in my first post but it makes no difference now the rev needle now just shivers :lol: also if you get really close (But not too close :lol: ) to the exhaust or engine you can hear a very slight missfire/jump along with the revs shivering :(

Excuse the stupidity please Steve :oops: But do you think that my clocks could be the problem ??

The alt is a recon one that’s about 11 months old so should be ok. I did get the multimeter out today and I checked the voltage between the large output bolt on the alt and the nearest earth and it was 14.2 at idle but I didn’t check at speed but 14.2 at idle sounds ok to me :oops: Which part on the alt is the regulator Steve ?????????

Bobby + stevemac Thanks for the info guys ill give them a call first thing tomorrow 8)

I found and cleaned up (Near mirror polished :lol: ) Only TWO small brown wires and the coils earth at the back right of the head and cleaned at the coil end. Bolt at the back of the battery and where the same earth bolts to the engine (Between front mount and starter) Both connections at the alternator. I made sure that everything was connected at the battery and that nothing else was loose. But TBH i couldn’t really check that the wiring was all intact as they are all covered in the plastic covers Ive also replaced the air intake elbow thing that I found to be ripped :oops: (Pics below) But still the cars idle is moving the rev needle a small amount same as my first post :mad: Have I missed an earth point somewhere that could be the cause of this ??

You cant name anyone in Leeds can you Steve

Phil K Most older Audi's have them I think!!!!!! nick vr6 Ive only ever seen one C in a scrapyard in Hudds. That was a valver in Breaking VW's (Paddock) about 6 months ago. They do have another C in the garage but he wont sell or break it and wont say why not :roll: I got these from Cooper Bridge spares who have quite a few VW's but never Corrados, which must be a good thing really 8)

Oichan's Push Button 8)

:lol: I know :lol:

That was it sorry :( All of the dials and most of the interior is already gone from the car so I was very surprised that these were still there. Also I forgot to say while I was taking them out I removed the ashtray and there was a £20 note and about £10 in change 8)