Rob_B
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Content Count
1,293 -
Joined
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Days Won
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Everything posted by Rob_B
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I would imagine that this has been resolved by now! looks like it was originally posted in 2009
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Last x2 fixed column tubes, cowlings and fittings. NOW OBSOLETE!
Rob_B replied to Pat_McCrotch's topic in Suppliers Forum
Are the early cowlings available at all? -
a 12"?
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Go big or go home! Like your style and would love to see this completed! Get cracking and don't stop until its done!
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It's an easy job to do. Will take two minutes to cut the section out. No getting underneath. I've had one out on the side of the road before after it broke, it's not a problem. Well worth doing though!
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Think it would have to be an evo for me. Really fancy one. Although 5k is a little on the low side I think
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My first question is have you got any det? The MBE set up does not use a knock sensor so it is mapped conservatively from Qpeng. If you have a crap injector or weak fuel pump then this is not covered by the ecu. Get it put on a dyno and get some afr readings. Secondly, is your map specifically for an auq with a k04? I don't think you are running too much boost, I think you have an underlying problem. No reason why it should go bang if it's fuelled properly
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A little higher, maybe an inch
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Do you have a race/rally place anywhere near you to get the parts from? All you need to find out it what size the threads are on your calipers and get a banjo bolt and fitting. Then a female fitting for the other end. Can't remember what thread the brake pipe fittings are but it's a standard size. Measure the old pipes for a rough length of pipe. Easy peasy. £40 in bits
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My friends golf had a toggle switch installed in the glovebox to cut the fuel pump. We didn't know about this... Took a while to figure out why the car suddenly cut out and wouldn't start again. Something must have knocked it off in the glovebox! What about just disconnecting the coil lead under the bonnet? Won't start then
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I'm going to go for immobiliser
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That is easier if you unsure about what you are doing
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I can't remember exactly what fittings you will need, but demon tweeks has all the parts. Get a couple of metres of hose. No special tools required. Disc thickness will be determined by the gap between the pads in the calipers, just use a vernier caliper to measure it
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I made mine myself, fairly easy
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Nope it's all g60 stuff, so electronic speedo
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A good friend of mine is a knife maker usually producing loveless style knives. Very talented bloke. Google I R bailey. Website seems to be down but he has plenty of stuff on british blades
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Right, I'm trying to find an irritating squeal from around my clock area. It only happens under full load, at around 3k. Not when you rev past 3k without boost. I've tried.... Disconnecting boost gauge, changing clocks, disconnecting headlight switch, disconnecting spoiler control module, disconnecting front speakers and head unit. Any ideas?!
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Kev that is about as simple as I've seen an explanation. Still takes a couple of read throughs for me though. Joni, I can't compete with that info! All of my info is based on personal experience with no training on the subject, just trial and error! Lol! I like that info though, will come in useful
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By adjusting the sampling time of the error you can get better control. You just have to make sure that your sampling time is longer than it takes for the loop to make an adjustment and settle back down. If the sampling time is too short then the loop will make an adjustment before the last adjustment has taken effect which leads to large oscillations
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Kw here to
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When you use pwm without a control loop do you find it's not very stable?
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D is derivative. It should be used to control how far past the set point the process value should go, but tends to add complication when tuning the loop. I usually stay away from it but they only way to find out is to play with it. Do you want someone who can map dta to play with it then?
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That's a good road trip! Glad it was a success and you got around safely
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Very good
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I hit a dear in my Corrado, not pretty