andy

From washing the bonnet?...

As already said, could do it much cheaper as a home mechanic, however I wouldn't say that was expensive to get someone else to do it. I would put money on Toyota charging double that. If you think VW parts are expensive, have a look at Jap stuff!

You should be able to et a 2nd hand one or even an aftermarket one for a fraction of that. I wouldn't go near VW for a part like that. My 20V A4 audi daily had a new cat for the last MOT, it was £100 fitted, brand new. Obvioulsy not an audi part!

They offered me £50 for my Audi A4 that just happens to have just been sold for £700 to the first person who saw it. Absolute scumbags in my book.

Its beaconing, and I'm in IT (ish) too, its a new one on me. I will check! I'm slightly afraid of opening a can of worms....if they delve into my browsing history any further!

Someone must know something more about this!

There's more to it than that Jim. Why would they rebuild a PC because I was visiting a website? They did say something had been downloaded from this site that was now beaconing it. I should have said that in my original post. I've not conciously downloaded anything. Something has come in the back door whilst on here, was the jist of the converstation. I'm curious really, they told me to watch what websites I visit, their policy for non-work-related sites is pretty flexible to be honest, ie its fine, just don't take the p1ss!

Less than 2 months into a new job, i get a call from IT security...... Your laptop needs rebuilding, due to it beaconing a non-work-related website..........Its "the-corrado.net" says the voice. I wanted the ground to open up! How has this come about? I'm not green on networking for a minute but thought I should mention it and see if anyone has any further explanation on the subject.

Just been quoted 220 quid fully comp, not gone up at all this year.

Most of that is what I did, it does make me doubt the value of the bentley manual, all it gives is a torque figure, which apparently is vastly different from VWs. Another thing, how exactly do you lower the vehicle, without the wheels touching the ground. I can only assume by 'lower' they mean the wheel is nearer its normal operating position, i.e car lower relative to hub centre. I suppose that means placing blocks under the wishbone/lower ball joint and lowering the rest of the car. Can't say I ever done it like that!

An update on this, I slackend everything and retorqued to the correct figure and everything seems fine. Funnily enough the torque figure I used last time was very similar to the the correct figure. First time round I didn't have a torque wrench that went high enough (for 225Nm), I did it as tight as my existing wrench would go (approx 160Nm) with the intention of coming back to it with a suitable larger torque wrench. On retorquing them last weekend, 90Nm plus 1/8 turn it felt very similar in overall tension to what I originally set it too. So in summary I probably wasn't too far off, its always difficult with angle-tightening to know what kind of torque you're actually applying. They all run uber smooth now and I'll check them again before long.

I'll take a pic tonight of how it looks as standard as I have no cowlings fitted atm. I can only describe it as above though really.

No pics yet but I've had a look. I seem to remember the bolt would have fitted across where the big spring is in the adjustment mechanism on the lower left hand side. You are effectively just clamping the hinge into a fixed position. I'm not sure if you need to remove the spring, probably though.

I'd check your wheelbearings. Jack each corner up in turn and grap the wheel at quarter to three and waggle, also half-twelve. See if you have any excessive play or knocking. There should be nothing at the front and virtually nothing at the rear.

I'll take the "Drivers side dashboard undertrays, two tiny screw holes where the fusebox clips have been replaced, good condition otherwise - £25" please. Let me know your payment details.

My mates car (Corrado VR6) failed the mot on this, and the play was no where near a cm. We took the cowlings off and put a bolt across between two points, each side of the 2 moving parts. Obviously there was no available adjustment then, we had to set it where he wanted it and fasten the nut/bolt. It was so simple and really effective. Really improved the steering feel in much the same way as a fixed column would, but took about 10 mins and cost about 10p. I'll have a look on mine later to see if I can see the points we used, I seem to remember there were suitable holes already there.

We used to use solvent cleaner (from an aerosol, but thats not really relevant) in an ultrasonic cleaner to clean rf connectors at work, worked very well.

Yes. However I seem to have used the figure for non-vr6 models which is 225 nm. I fitted new bearings a couple of months back, I read the figure for non-vr6 models in error. I've been driving round for 1000 miles on severely overtorqued bearings. I've just checked them today (as part of something else) and the drivers side was loose (properly loose) Nut was hand tight, loads of play. It might explain the awful ride quality I have been experiencing? The passenger side one has no play and feels good, neither bearing has made any noise or got hot. I'm wondering the best way forward.

Can anyone confirm its 90Nm (66lbft). +1/8 turn I think I may have made an expensive mistake!

Dr, you have 100 per cent re-iterated the point I had made. Exactly!

PO19 4WT, time is in the post further up.

Yes it would have a lower maximum flow rate, assuming perfect (minimal) spacing and no one braking etc. Junctions, lanes merging etc prevent this ideal scenario. The point I'm making is that bad driving is getting right in the way of achieving anywhere near the maximum flow rate. As I say in the example above, lots of people trying to go too fast for the conditions means more braking, unecessary deceleration and acceleration, and acheiving a really naff average speed. On more remote motorways, higher speeds are more easily and safely achievable, but only because the volume of traffic is lower. I'm only (theoretically) suggesting it might help on busy stretches of motorway. Variable limits would probably be the best (theoretical) solution, but then driving in this country simply isn't good enough!

Don't get me wrong, I rarely stick to the 70 limit and I do like to get places in a reasonable timeframe....ahem I have often pondered the benefits of making motorways and main routes say 50mph. I reckon there would be less accidents and less of this bunching thing that causes havoc on the motorways. (speed up, slow down, speed up.....etc) You would be able to predict (hopefully through more predictable conditions) how long it would take you to get somewhere with greater accuracy and save fuel. I think in some cases you might get places quicker. Every morning I join the M27 and do the bunching thing for 5 miles, my average speed is well under 50. Because everyone is trying to do 80, then they spot a brakelight on the horizon, slam on the anchors, speed up, slam on...grrrrr! If everyone was doing 50...ish. Merging would be easier, better stopping distances, less need to slam on etc etc I think it makes a lot of sense. Lets hope they never bring it in!

Beat me to it! I took mine apart and greased it the other day after 6 years of stiffness. Its like a new handle now, opens with my little finger! Why didn't I do it earlier!

This morning I received a Calendar (postmarked yesterday ;-) ) This evening I have received a refund. Thankyou _meth , we got there in the end. Thankyou mods/admins for your time/effort.