VEEDUBBED

Also take into account what kind of steering wheel you have fitted,if you still have the original wheel you may be ok but if you've fitted an aftermarket smaller steering wheel you'll be in trouble whilst parking,u-turns etc,i've tried it myself when i changed the rack about a week ago and the steering was awful heavy...

When you press out the shaft using a hyd. press,the hyd. ram forces the alternator shaft out of it's bearing,the screws don't retain the shaft,you could also try heating the alt. casing around the bearing part then with a copper malet try tapping the shaft through but i dowt that would be sufficent to shift the shaft.

Have you tried clamping off each brake hose in turn?,it has been known to happen that the hoses look fine but under braking they may bulge slightly because the inner wall of the brake hose is damaged,give it a try. By the way,if you don't have a brake hose clamp you could use a pair of vise grips with 2 sockets on the jaws to protect the hoses,good luck mate.

You'll need a hyd. press mate,re-attach the spindle's nut to protect the threaded bit and apply pressure until it pops out. Be carefull because the aluminium can be fragile,cheers,Andrew.

Nope,the VR6 p.steering pump won't work because the bolt attachments are totally different and the pulley is bigger,also the banjo bolt is bigger. I've fitted the VR's 'ZF' steering rack into my G60 corrado,that works but you have to change the inner steering arms because the original VR ones are too long, the g60 arms bolt up ok.

I'm in the process of re-building my g60's bodywork and after removing all the car's glass it's time to glue the glass back in,isn't it strange how it's always the small things that f@ck you around,well i'm left with the front screen to fit but i need to know what size does one have to cut those small rubber distance pieces that are glued onto the screen?,in all there are 6 of 'em to put back, i bought the spacers from the local stealer only to find that Vw in all their wisdom could'nt be bothered to pre-cut the bloody things,they gave me 6 3 inch long rubber blocks..,If any body can help i'd be very gratefull,Cheers,Andrew.

Hang on guys,i just had the same problem regarding my green corrado g60 i'm restoring that has terrible paintwork,over here in Italy it's illegal to re-shell a car,so i went and bought another corrado of the same colour with an electric sun roof hoping to do a simuler job that pablos is doing,removing the roof of a corrado is NOT a simple job,there are spot welds every were,inside the gutters,alongside the rain gutters,inside the shell,across the windscreen frame,most can't even be seen easily. Think very carefully before doing a job like this,i ended cutting up a perfecty sprayed corrado shell and restoring the original shell after thinking about it for nearly 2 months...

As long as it's not a R.Bently manual,Sorry,but that manual is an overpriced,badly wrote "technical" book,my opinion of coarse...

Well, last weekend i changed the rack on my G60 because i'm renovating the whole car,so without the engine and g.box in the way,i noticed both steering rack gaitors were split, i had a spare VR rack and swapped over the steering arms,thats when i noticed the adjuster for rack play opposite the output shaft,i don't need to use it 'cos the vr's rack has only 15000 miles run. The TRW G60 rack also has this adjuster but a special VW tool is needed to use it,the adjuster is for that precise purpose;removing un-wanted play within the actual rack,loosen the locknut(ZF rack) and just nip up the adjuster. If i find a way around using that now obseleat VW tool,i'll post up the procedure

Has anybody ever tried using the play adjuster on the rack?

Nope,the two electrodes on the plugs come ready gapped,are the ht leads ok?,check the metal plug caps carefully for tracking against the head,have you checked the rotor arm,cap,coil tower?,Cheers,Andrew.

The track rod's are the same parts for both VRs and g60 racks,i don'y know why ZF's engineers decided to make the steering arm's inner ball and socket bigger than the TRW g60 racks one,maybe because of the increased weight/track of the VR6 model?,all the components can be swapped between the two racks but the Bently manual states that the steering components should'nt be mixed,well i've done this swap and the car's fine,make your own conclusions...

At the weekend i swapped my '92 G60 steering rack with my spare mega low milage VR6 rack,the G60's rack was made by TRW and has 22 output shaft spleens,the VR's rack also has 22 splines but is made by the German manufacturer ZF. I had to swap over the steering arms because the corrado VR6 has a wider track and the inner ball joints are bigger compared to the G60 TRW rack's arms. The TRW's inner arms bolt up no prob,the other difference concerns the diameter of the protective rubber boots,the small end which is clamped on to the steering arm is a couple of mm's bigger when you compare it to the G60 rack but just pull the clamp tighter when re-assembling,hope this helps in some way,Cheers.

yeah,and if you have to change it you'll need the same part/no. of spleens because the small shaft's UJs are welded to the shaft,so you can't mix 'n' match.

Today i retro fitted a spare VR6 ZF steering rack to my G60,i noticed that the ZF rack has a facilitiy to remove any unwanted/ecsessive backlash/play within the rack(,the TRW rack hasn't got this)try loosening the locknut and remove any play that can be felt,it may help.Hopefully it's not the small colum shaft connecting the rack/colum,380 euro from stealers....

Carefull of the year of manufacture,:from VIN number 50 N 012 001('90?) 36 teeth(spleens?) from '91 onwards 22 teeth.The shafts aren't interchangable and cost 380 euro new from stealer here in Rome,you lot could probably get the part cheaper 'cos over here their all thievin bastids within the vw spares dept.

The 9A 2.0 idle valve is also alot more barrel shaped and won't fit within the 8v's rubber retaining ring,it's also the same valve fitted to the ABV VR6 motor.

Why not try spraying some lubricant inside the plug lead's connectors such as silicone spray?,sometimes the leads on my valver used to get stuck because of water ingress.Try it.Cheers.

Unless you have A/C,then don't remove the slam panel,if you do have A/C you'll have to re-gas it,over here it's a major PITA because freon is no longer available...and is against the law.

Hello mate,def. remove the front slam panel because it was designed to be removed for that job,do you have a hoist?,if you have the poss. of using a hoist it's real easy,if not try getting hold of 2 jacks which is safer than using 1,after draining the engine's coolant remove the block's thermostat,that way you'll drain all the coolant thus avoiding it peeing out making a mess all over your workspace. Be carefull when you loosen the inner driveshaft cv joint's bolts,if you don't insert the torx bit properly you run the risk of damaging the bolt's head,then try getting the buggers off...!,clean out any muck BEFORE inserting the torx bit. The same thing goes when/if you try loosening the 30mm driveshaft nuts,the bloody nuts have been made too thin so make sure you have a good fitting socket to avoid damaging the nut's flats,pigs to remove if damaged...,1 other way of avoiding that is to disconnect the wishbone's bottom ball joint(3 13mm nut/bolts) and pull both hub and drive shaft away from 'box as a unit (recomended). You could also remove the entire engine/'box/subframe/s.rack all at the same time,thus avoiding the joy of trying to re-connect the 6 17mm exhaust/manifold's nuts which,due to lack of space,are real bastids to put back and are often siezed...as are the cat's nuts/bolts but with no engine in the way they will be a piece of cake to deal with,this way is also usefull if you come across any s.rack gaitors that have split. Obviosly,i've no way of knowing your experience/workfacilities,but if you run into any problems look me up on the forum and i'll try to help,hope some of this helps you,Cheers,Andrew.

Hey struan,I've got loads of those green clips and more than likely have a few conneetor clips,if you wait untill thursday i'll send them down but give me your address again mate,how many do you need?

Hey Wonga, do you need any bits for your car mate?,i've got loadsa bits.cheers,Andrew.

Ive changed quite a few alternators on my corrado,i've been from a 60 to 90 amp and even retro fitted a 120 amp alternator of a vr6 model,all the alt.s are made by bosch, what iv'e never understood is why does the alternator warning light never go out on first start-up unless you rev the engine slightly?,as an experiment,i fitted a 120 amp alt. lifted off an Alfa romeo 164 v6,result?-instant charge with no warning lamp/led delay...,opinions please.

NOS?,a second hand NOS system shouldn't cost too much seeing as there 500 euro new...(instant 25/50 ponies..).

Get hold of a few meters of wire and then rig up a 12v test light(corrado/golf side indicators work great) and connect the light with 1 terminal on the 5th injector's feed,then put the other terminal to earth,start the cold engine and see if the light lights up,the test light should go out after aprox.5 secs,but it has to be very cold for it to function,you mentioned that your motor runs very groggy with the connector disconected,that's strange because on my 2.0 9A motor i tried this and it made no difference at all,the engine started regardless.