beavis

Just noticed the red circle... LOL.. The vent from the charcoal cannister vent into that hole... Blank if removed

Earth for the ignition coil if your refering to the m6 nut on the top next to throttle cable mount

Yes 1.7k ohms is very high/lean. At idle. The senders tend to fail to a higher value as the internals degrade. They usually have a date stamp stamped into the white part of the plastic. If it has 09/91 etc stamped into it it may well be time for a new one.

All adjustment on the CO pot is done whist all other senders are plugged in to get an accurate reading and obviously when the engine is warm. The mixture becomes rich whist the blue temp sender is unplugged as the mixture is not burn't correctly as the ignition timing is retarded to a fixed constant with no ECU trim.

When you work it out the OE looms are pretty cheap. The pin connectors for the end of the loom work out at a good £7 on their own, if you then add the price of the wire and fresh plugs and a good hour or so to silver solder it all together it is as cheap to buy one from the dealers. The only time it is worth cutting and shutting this loom is when fitting a aftermarket management system such as Emerald and changing the injectors from batch to sequential firing.

Yes, AFR figures are way to rich. Target AFR should be around 11.8:1 on full boost really. I always see the best results in tearms of power when this figure ismaintained whist I'm remaping a car. The Map sensor really needs to be upgraded if you are hitting over 1 bar of boost as the ISV will bleed off boost and the ignition advance trimmed back. This has nothing to do with the infomation on the chip and is a simple switched failsafe circuit that trips in when the Map sensor hits 5v voltage The rallye ECU being abe to cope with more boost/bigger map sensor is a phalicy. I always reconfigure the wide open throttle switch actuation with turbo lumps running Digifant. The wide open throttle switch as stock is actuated when the throttle is wide open and BRV shut. This is fine with a supercharged lump as there is always boost there at WOT. Things are slightly different with a turbo lump as you got wide open throttle, but there is no boost until the turbo is actually spooled, so the ECU is seeing no boost on the map sensor but is throwing in fuel as it anticipates boost at WOT as the throttle switch is actuated. This creates a massive rich point in the transition leading to a very laggie power delivery an a car that is prettymuch impossible to map. I get around this by disconnecting the OE config and actuating WOT switch via a pressure switch. This provides as stable and realistic feed back of info to the ECU.

The wiring harness has never been listed for G60 application. If you ask your friendly parts chap to look for a 'PB' engine code item and order that part number you will get the correct item. They are around £40. The majority of G60 injector looms are on their last legs now afteryears of being subject to heat.

Pins 1&3 ..The two outer pins of the Pot are the ones to test the base resitance, regardless of the temperature this value is fixed. To adjust the resitance, screw the adjustment screw anti clockwise to lean the base mixture off which increases resistance and vice versa to richen.

The Profile you have Henny took a little 'trial and error'.. I found the grinds that 'did'nt work' earlier on a shelf of the store room. The Shrick 268'/276' give a good spread of power without robbing too much low down torque and the finish of the cam is OE. The Piper 285's are very strong top end, but a little to much top end and you end up spanking the hell out of the charger to enjoy the benefits of the cam. The Newman milder P1 cam we have had ground to our own spec work well in G60's stock valved 1.8 G60's and P2 for 1.9 G60's. Avoid Kents, I have not yet a G60 with a Kent cam that has left me questioning if it is any better than stock and if you obtain a Piper ensure it is the G60 version of the 285 and not the 8v 'PB' normaly aspirated version that has far too much overlap for the G60 engine.

I had a fan assembly on my 115/16 row Mocal Cooler. I used the Mocal fan mounting plate which attaches very neatly to the cooler. An Electric Fan mounts to the plate. I wired it to secondary Heated rear window switch on a relay so I could switch my main radiator fan and Oil cooler fan on whist sitting in traffic and cooling things off in the pits after ragging it on a trackday. The Fan mounting plates are just under £30.00

It will all be worth it when it romps up the road with an Intercooler that actually does somthing to aid cooling.

I've got 2 rods sitting here next to me on my desk. One is a PG rod which has '037' part number which corrolates to the start of the G60 rod bolt part number and is a m9x1 thread. The other rod is out of a '9A' lump I belive and had '048' part number on the rod which would corrolate to the 16v part number for the rod. The PG rod bolt is a larger diameter and the nut has a shoulder at the bottom where it pulls dowm on the cap of the rod. It is adviserble to replace the bolts as if you compare a used and a new bolt you can see where it has stetched and if you interlock the threads the old bolt runs off and sits on the high part of the thread on the new bolt. The new bolts need to be pressed home into their location in the rod and then torqued down. Using a new bolt ensures uniform torque on reassembly. At least if you use new bolts you know that you have done everything possible to avoid a failure in the future. For the few pounds it costs for bolts it is a good fail safe to avoid spending out twice on gaskets etc which you risk the gamble of if you use old components.

There will always be a slight trace of oil in the boost pipes from the breather system if you still have that recirculating into the boost return system a very small amount that will pass though the chager oil seals as the seal is not 100% and a small amount will pass though the seal. However if you have large quanteries of oil passing though then you may have an issue with a oil seal starting to fail. This may be because the lip of the oil seal is not sealing aswellas it should due to the tension spring becoming displaced on the rear of the sealing lip or the sealing lip itself has become ineffective due to excessive wear or hardening due to heat build up over a period of time. At 20,000 miles on a smaller charger pulley with 'entusiastic'driving it may be time to get the unit fulley overhauled or at least inspected and at least the small timing belt and oil seals changed if the bearings are in good condition.

Regardless of what brand of chip you are fitting it is worthwhile checking the condition of all the senders and ensure there is no damage to the loom. Ensure everything is on perfect working order before fitting a chip and pulley. Have a read of this ... http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/guid ... gement.pdf

There is no gains at all to be had by reducing length of the BRV arm so the BRV butterfly shuts before the main TB is at wide open throttle. The full throttle microswitch should contact as the BRV valve shuts fully. If you adjust the BRV to close earlier the engine is seeing full boost with no full throttle enrichment lading to the engine running lean at this point for a split second. The throttle pedel will feel like an on/off switch with no progerssion making the car hard to balence on the throttle whist cornering.

We use an Emulator which allows us to change the value of each load point on individuel maps whist on the move. You can attempt to do it with a hex editor, but if you have no idea of where the fueling or ignition maps are or what you are trying to adjust the process will be a little futile. Dimsport supply race 2000 software for around £3500 if you care to use that brand, hardware will set you back another grand or so.

There is not a specific loom listed for the PG engine. The repalcement digifant loom part number is 037 133 339, they are listed at £55

Use the original bearing caps as they are matched to the block from the factory. Replace all the retaining bolts with new OE items as reusing them is not ideal as you will not get accurate torque readings when refitting them. Bearing shells from VAG cost a small fortune, we get the same items for a fraction of the price as we buy them in bulk and you do not have to pay an extra 40 quid for VAG to put them into their own box.

http://www.bonrath.de/

Yep, I have to agree with the pedestrian safety thing and would like to point out we did not fit the first intercooler.

If customers want to get the hole saw out and want to hack their bumper out then that is up to them. The lower grill does act as a natural air dam and at speed then the volume of air passing over the core whether it be mounted on the outside of the car in the airflow or in the position where we fit them is negligible. As an example although not a Corrado but a Polo G40 with a G60 charger on >>>>> The customer decided that he wanted to fit the biggest cooler possible, it worked well. But after several tugs by the Law for his 'snow plough' intercooler fitment he opted to fit one of our coolers that sits behind the bumper. The intercooler we fit to the Polo's is the same as the corrado ones. With the intercooler sitting behind the bumper, again with a few rows exposed by the grill and the rest of the air being fed from the air duct of the bumper. The efficiency of the new cooler provided exactly the same temperature differential of post intercooler inlet temperatures as that of the old snow plough. G60 charger, 65mm toothed pulley and 23PSI. So I would have to disagree with you. There is plenty of air passing though the lower grill, hence why corrado Rads keep the coolant temp down effectively even though only a little is exposed to direct air flow as such from the grill. If anybody wants a snow plough intercooler conversion I can supply one for £50 and give you some free ratchet straps to mount it in direct air flow :D I was answeing to the title of the post that asks what fits 'into' a G60 rather than 'onto' a G60

Large surface area is the key rather than overall volume. You do have more room to play with differnt options with the RS bumper, but most owner owners we deal with want to keep the car looking original and keep the OE bumper. Our front mounts don't require any body mods at all barring 2 small holes bing driled to secure the cooler. Although it is nice to get as much of the core exposed to the air flow as possible it is not really a major issue as a lot of air does get rammed up though the lower grill. There is that much air turbulance going on at the front of the car exposing 100% of the core directly in the airflow is neither here or there. This is how we mount our kit http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/gallery/index.php?cat=gallery&anime=IntercoolersG60&images=7&id=0

Thats and essential part for the OE baffle box. Just replace the whole item for a RS outlet.

Secondry shaft bearing Exhaust housing bearing OE scroll centre bearing Dodge end bearing with plastic race.. for the bin OE diameter pulley Timing belts Apex strip

If your car still has the OE boost return set up returning boost into the right hand side of the charger then this noise is quite normal. When you back off the excess boost pressure is vented back as the secondry bypass butterfly opens. The boost flys back into the charger and the noise you hear is the returned boost passing over the top of the charger inlet. It is essentially like blowing across the neck of a milk bottle.