beavis

As mentioned previously, it is imperative to ensure you have a solid foundation to your car before you even consider tuning it. It is both false economy and asking for disaster if you spend your money in the wrong area :shock: . Once you are happy that the car is in tip top form then divert your energy and funds into extracting power out of the car. You have no worries about running a 68mm pulley and it compromising reliability after the charger has been rebuilt and it deemed that the unit is structurally sound to cope with the higher average rpm generated by using smaller than stock pulley. The bearings and materials we use in all of our rebuilds have been up rated to cope with the extra loads exerted on the charger too take the extra punishment. I’ve recently had a few customers call telling me they have been offered ‘cut price rebuilds’ by other company’s, lol read ‘cut price materials’, reputation and reliability is not worth risking using lesser quality product to reduce price. Your car will respect you as mush as you will respect it. Owners who have stock pulleys and drive their cars a little ‘over enthusiastically’ reduce the service interval on their charger more so than a charger running a 68mm driven sensibly. To surmise you should look to (guidance only) Rectify all running problems/leaks/excessively worn components Rebuild the charger (possibly port as well) Oil cooler (search the forum threads to read the merits of this mod) Smaller pulley combined with a quality chip Front mount intercooler conversion. The most important thing for you to decide is what you ultimately want the car to be like and what you are going to be using it for. Talk to as many fellow Corrado owners as possible to get a general unbiased consensus to what modifications/improvements will be of most benefit to you.

Darren gave your car a swift kick whist you were not looking... hence why it pullled well. :)

Too right..cannot hear anthing with my ear defenders and the compressor running. You could clear the workshop of all tools into the back of a trannie van and do wone with them, i'd be oblivious to it all unitl I stopped porting to make a brew.

Unless you have £$£ to spend on bespoke rods such as 'Arrow' units save your pennies. The stock G60 items are hard to surpass in tearms of build quality and strength. Substitute rods may have more desirable dimentions, but you will compromise strength in favor of this using off the shelf items.

Chill for the time being on the cam front.. You will need one for the x-flow so just wait until then.

Furki's guide to Road kill.. da fuc 'Cats can jump over cars like that'.. Do you have a bread of 'Stunt' cats in Crawley? The one I hit in the Mini the other week just made a 'Thud'' as it hit the front bumper, got out expecting to see a fluffy, bloody mess.. but just found a dazed moggey that picked itself up, then bur'nt off into the nearest garden and a mashed lower mesh grill I had to spent 5 minuite re clipping on. Gonna aim for it in a corrado next time to make sure its the cats skull hitting the hard reinforced plastic that makes the thud.

Sorry, have just read above annd reallised i've reitterated what Gav has said..

Is the ECU actualy priming. The ISV should buzz have power etc. Are you testing for the spark whist turning it over on the the starter motor? Try removing the disi and rotating it by hand with the ignition set in the 'on' position. You should hear the injectors pulse and also a spark be generated. This may sound overly simplistic, but ensure there is enough juice in the battery to turn the starter motor AND generate a spark. Had issues with starting G60's after bleeding brakes with the ABS pump, there is enough power there to turn the starter motor no problem, but not enough current to generate a strong spark at te same time.

Nice to know you got back safe and sound mate... The test facility was a little dryier this evening, although very poorly lit up by the head lights of a Golf Rallye.. just have to use the 'cats eyes' as Braile.

Yes, same take off plate, but the stub out of the oil take off housing attached the block needs to be trimmmed down in length so the sandwich plate can be attached to it.

I thought you were selling your Corrado and buying another RST Dan ? :wink: :wink: We hopfully should be bringing some of these exhaust over from Germany in the new year . Bastuck systems. They are a German skool exhaust system that are very popular over there. We have fitted a few systems to Polo's over the last year. We have been very impressed with the quality and low noise levels of. We have not been keen on getting envolved with fitting exhausts as unitil up to now we have not been equipped to fit them properly. Won't be such a eveil job now when we get our new two posters next week :) ..

:wink: Big, efficent cooler's..We like

Oil coolers keep things a lot happier. The money you will spend on a oil cooler you will save in the future by not having to replace engine oil seals prematurly. I serviced a charger last week that i'd seviced last year and 18k mile ago, the oil seals in it looked like they had been baked in the oven, coincidently his car was in with Ian Birch while'st I was servicing his blower having the lower crank oil seals replaced as they too had been baked in turn contaminatig the clutch. He is fitting a oil cooler soon to prevent a repeat of the woes he has just suffered. Bypassing and removing the original water/oil cooler eliminates all the complications of not being able to use or modifying a G60 filter to fit. Removing it will cost an additional 20 odd pounds to the fitment of the cooler to replace the coolant hoses with non water/oil cooler t-piece items............ Then intercooler :wink:

Got semihelical gears in our G40 slut track beast. Sounds quite agricultural, which is not a bad thing. That shifter is quite gucci.. :D

Why not just one big efficent one with good cooling airflow passing over it? A better option than 2 coolers.

Yep, injectors are a very hard worked but dismissed component forn servicing. Many large Bosch dealers have the facility to clean and check the spray pattern onn injectors. This addresses problems with physical blockages in the units but does not address the problems of the small electromagnetic coil failing in the unit. Injectors are obsene money from VAG, about £87 + vat per unit!!! It is possible tom souce them from abroad for cheaper, proberbly looing in the region of £190 per six.

Looks like you had a weak/failing injector. We have seen 5-6 G40 engines and a couple of G60 lumps with the same type of failure. Look at the colour of the piston crowns. All have uniform carbon deposits on them barring the failed one that looks like it has had some serious detination going on. A good injector will atmoise the fuel leaving a layer of unburnt fuel on the piston crown which effectivly cools the crown. With a paritally blocked injector it will cause the one cylinder to run lean and effectivly superheat the piston hence the damage. A injector may be supplying the correct amount of fuel, but if the spray pattern is poor and not atomising the fuel you will get the same damage as the fuel will not burn efficently. If you have not already, replace that paticular injector and consider having all the injectors flow tested. Replace them if at all in doubt. I've know of a couple of people melt a piston, rebuild the engine without getting to the route of the problem and then two later having a identical failure.

Ye.. The sacrid Snap-on water clip pliers.. They save hours and damaged knuckles..

Darren had one on his old 'RIP' Corrado. From what I remeber it was a squeze to fit in and required a lot of hacking the front of panel and boost hoses ran close to PAS hoses. The Sprinter cooler is a very effective item, but not really suitable for the Corrado unless your really chopping up your car about.

Were you parked up in Brighton last week?

Personaly, with a Corrado G60 i'd be inclined to fit a larger intercooler before doing anywork to the engine. The standard intercooler is the limiting factor on the cars. You will stilll need a chip if you have not already got one to suit the spec of the engine and injectors you have at the moment. I was just suggesting that if you do upgrade the injectors i'd go no larger than 300cc (red) injectors.

I'm not disagreeing, but there are more than one way to skin a cat. We too have a copy of the Bentley manual which is a wealth of information. Many procedures must be adeared to to get the correct results, other prodedures in it are very longwinded and over complicate simple procedures. All cars we set up pass MOT emmisions within the factory spec so the overalll goal is achived. The bentley and VW workshop manuals also say to condem a Supercharger if it is not Boosting to factory spec's :wink:

I agree with the blue temp sender being off for ignition timing adjustment as in this mode all ECU ignition advance correction is removed which is imperative to accuratly setting the base settings. Ignition advance and CO are very much interelated from the aspect of when you adjust ignition advanc/retard this ultimatly affects CO/AFR readings so thefore the CO pot has to be adjusted to compensate. As far as removing the CO pot to set the CO mixture i'd have to disagree. With blue tempreture sender unpluged the car runs a lot leaner, typically 17-19:1 AFR assuming the car is running the desired 14.7:1 AFR with the sender plugged in. Therfore if you were to adjust the AFR to 14.7:1 with blue plug disconnested you would (do) see very rich AFR such as 11-12:1 AFR with the sender plugged back in. The CO potentiometers adjustment is basically just the base adjustment of the air temp senders resistance, the ECU detects changes in resistance, but is ignorant to whether they be manual or actuated by change in tempreture across the sensor. Is it a dodgy American training Video? I think the most important thing to note here is that CO and ignition timing are interelated and should be set together, but to ultimatly get the desired CO/AFR readings the CO has to be set with temp sender ON. I know this may go aganinct the grain of what VW video might say, but this is how you get the desired CO reading. I know that if you do it the way that VW describe with the adjustining the CO with the plug off thhe overall effect is that you end up with a car that runs pig rich when you plug the sender back in. The AFR gauge reads the truth so i'll follow that over VAG info.

Hmm.. is it too late to change your order?.. 400cc injectors are complete overkill on a G60 unless you have hybrid engine spec with a head that flows high CFM. The stock, or even ported PG/1H head does not physically flow enough to require the fuel that 400cc injectors provide. 300cc injectors running a 3 bar reg are more than adequate to provide enough fuel for 99% of G60 engines, even those with bigger CC and major engine mods. Removal of carbon cannister is a good mod. Not necessarily to give you increase in performance, just cleans engine bay up and shorterns vac hoses so there is less hose to be prone to vacume leaks. Cams in G60's are a little subjective. All cams do is move power about. If you gain BHP top end, you will loose torque midrange. The PG head is not the best flowing head topend so it is a little counterproductive fitting a cam which works at higher RPM as when the cam comes into its own the head stops flowing. It also means that you have to rev the engine at higher rpm to get power from the engine which is not really the best for the charger. The stock G60 cam is a good all around profile that may not give ulltimate BHP, but gives a good across the board wall of torque, which is what the engine is all about.

That thing Pimps well hard..