beavis

We get asked regularly by customers what to check when their G60 is feeling a little poorly. I've put together a brief step by step guide of things to check when your G60 has got the hump. All the checks can be carried out with a cheap digital Multimeter from Maplins that will set you back about £10. It is not a bad idea to go though the check list even if your car appears to be fine as you may have a small problem that has not raised it head yet. As they say prevention is better than cure. The PDF tutorial is here http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com/guides/Diagnostic%20of%20G60%20engine%20management.pdf If you are still unsure about anything drop me a mail and I can give you further guidance.

If your adament the timing has been set correctly then it may be worthwhile getting your fuel pressure tested as the pump may be slowly failing not supplying enough fuel to the rail, hence the pinking.

Under what conditions does it pink? High load, low RPM or thoughout the rev range?

That does look like a victim of pinking. It may be worthwhile checking the spray pattern of that injector as that may be the route of the problem if it is just localised to one cylinder.

Too much agressive right foot.. you need some finesse. The mounts look top doller..very impressive pieces of kit.

Take your dumpvalve to the pub with you and trade it for some beers, then go home and route your boost return to air so it makes the same noise and is acutally effective. 20,30,50mm whatever, it will not dispose of air as the boost return valve depresses air pressure at a far quicker rate than the dump valve can.

The most tallented 'Misrible old bas****'in Littlehampton... No service with a smile but the end result is spot on.

Ahh.. good.

That chip has fueling maps for 300cc injectors and the ignition curves will be wrong for a 8:1 compression engine as our rebuilds are 9:1. Yor car will feel slugish as it is running too lean as the duty cycle of the injectors is too low for the green 250cc OE injectors and not enough fuel is being supplied. I would advise getting a chip suitable for your set up or getting a custom remap. We only remap cars when the owners have done all the engine modifactions that they plan to do. If you have a flowed head or cam then 300cc injectors are a good idea.

Where is the injection nozzle going to be located?

If it is the chip out of the ECU that was in his old yellow car and is the one for the higher compression 1.9 engine then that map will not really be suitable for use in a 1781cc low comp engine. Are you running the orginal injectors?

Keep your FPR standard 3bar. If you need more fuel then uprate the injectors to bigger items such as 300cc reds. We do not like to map cars with aftermarket FPR's as it causes complications with the spray pattern the injectors produce and puts extra stress on the injectors making them more prone to failure. If you are going to spend your money on anything buy a new OE fuel pump to ensure you have enough fuel being delivered to the rail.

It is wise to run G60's on the best fuel available to you, 98 RON is preferable. You need to get your fuel pressure tested to eliminate/point the finger at your fuel pump. Pressure at idle should be around 38psi, instantly rising and holding to around 55-60psi on boost and not dropping back from the peak pressure as the RPM's increase. Fuel pressure is tested with a suitable gauge tapping off where the end of the fuel rail where the fuel pressure switch is normally plumbed into.

Standard injectors running stock fuel pressure will almost certainly be running 100% duty for the car to be kicking out that power.

Yes, their will be three people about most of the time to answer the phone at the unit rather than previosly just myself and where ever I am with my Mobile. I'll give you a call on Monday Rob.

so how come you dont actually get there till midday You never complain when were putting your car back together at 8pm because you've broken it. LOL

It has only taken about 2 and a half years for BT to decide that they can actually run us a line into our unit from the road. The new PSD contact number is 01903-723981 Their will be a transition to this number over the next few months. PSD opening hours are 9am-5pm weekdays and 9am-2.30pm Saturday. Many thanks

We do it in a couple of different way. We either use the MF2 to control a valve to bleed off boost or use the MF2 unit to send a signal to the ECU and then remap it to retard ignition timing. Digifant can be manipulated to handle other inputs, but if you do it crudely, like Keith says you will just end up throwing the car into failsafe mode. I would still advise to map it safely with the water off for a road car, there are too many other factors that can compromise safety otherwise. The new dash gauge is quite a useful piece of kit, once it is set up.. Then left well alone. As mentioned common sense is the best failsafe factor, the water will last you a while if the system is set up correctly, if you are getting though it in unacceptable quantities then the system is poorly set up and running inefficiently.

I went to see Justin and Richard on Friday, two very knowledgeable chaps. The 2D system uses water more conservatively than the 1S system and will calculate when to inject water when it is necessary rater than at the upper threshold of boost. It is possible to get the car mapped relying upon the water injection, you can use less fuel top end and dial in more ignition advance. But as mentioned before, this really does need to be combined with a fail safe system which will retard ignition timing accordingly. For a fast road car I would personally get the car mapped on the upper threshold of the ignition advance and use the water injection as safety when you have it turned on.

Your car is Dan Shalor's old car is it not? The engine in that car is very fresh and has responded really well to tuning in the past as it was pretty low milage and had previously been owned by his Mom if I remember.

The exit of Eau Rouge is a bit dubious to say the least. You enter it at about 90mph going uphill, aim for the inner kerb, hope there is enough track to catch you as the car goes exceptionaly light on the exit... oh and by the way, all you can see is 'sky' rather than where you are going on the entry to it, cross your fingers and hope for the best. Armcoat is about £400 a metre to repair if you hit it.

We brought a Audi A4 TDi earlier in the year as the Cooper 's' was costing us a small fortune in fuel to use daily. We paid just over 2k for a P plate saloon with 110k on the clock. It has now done £130 and has not skipped a beat. 62 litre fuel tank returns about 600-660 miles and up to 700 on motoway only runs. The A4 avants TDi's hold their value a lot more than the saloons.

'Twin pass coolers' like the one shown are a flow slightly less than a well designed single pass cooler. In saying that we are talking about a loss that insignificant that you would hardly notice it from the driver’s seat, if it were a race car then it may be a consideration. Realistically if you are going to build your 16vG60 with the alternator in the position of the Air con pump then utilizing a twin pass cooler is the neatest solution as space constrictions between the alternator and cross member do not allow room for a boost hose. We built and installed a custom intercooler for a 20v turbo a few weeks back. After a few hours of sizing things up it seemed that a twin pass cooler was going to be the route to go down to provide the neatest installation. The inlet/outlet and header designs on that cooler could be improved, but do not be put off by the principle of the cooler.

Full details HERE

This is the custom set up we have developed for the G60 that is large enough to be effective without the need to hack the car about to get it to fit or excessivly long pipework. PSD G60 cooler pics