jezzaG60

Your welcome to try my "full gimp" for size some time Tim.

Rolling road results do seem to vary a great deal from one set of rollers to another. The most important thing from a rolling road is consistancy. If you are looking to see what gains mods have given you, always use the same rolling road. The losses vary between different types of rolling road as some are single roller, others are twin, i.e your tyre has 2 contact patches. this will clearly effect the rolling losses. Don't by any means think that "wheel horsepower" figures are the be all and end all. You will see variations in the results by changing your tyre pressures, wheel size, tyre size or even the amount of tread on the tyre. Some rolling roads perform a purely inertia run where the vehicle accelerates the mass of the rollers and then a simple calculation is performed to calculate the torque. Other rolling roads apply a load to the rollers to slow the rate of acceleration to give a better resolution to the test. This is where another flaw with a rolling road test can arise. The engine is having to accelerate the flywheel, transmission, driveshafts, wheels and rollers. If you can remove mass from any of these then the acceleration will be faster and hence the result will be higher. I think this is where people can be mislead in to thinking that a lightened flywheel adds power. If you want an exact figure for you engines output, put it on an engine dyno. If you want to compare your car with your mates, take it to the same rolling road, better still, take it there on the same day. If you want to keep track of how your mods are effecting your performance, pick a rolling road and stick with it. If your being fussy, keep a note of your tyre pressures. Keep the same size wheels and tyres, same transmission etc.

Yes, a ported head will be less of a restriction and hence you will see a lower boost pressure. There comes a point when an engine is flowing well that pressures in the cylinder during induction will begin to match those in the manifold. At that point you need a bigger charger!!! Right, another plot. This one looks a little confusing. The top 2 were some runs from yesterday, did the 2 because i remembered to change the trigger speed on the rollers so one of the plots shows what happens from 2k. The difference in the top 2 was a change in cam timing. You can see the torque curve has shifted down on the lower run. The next plot down shows where i was at the other day with 268bhp Put the bottom one on there just for a bit of interest. That was my car waaaay back before i pulled it all the bits to change the engine. Just an 8v with a few little bits and a 68mm pulley. How things have moved on!

Yeah, i have used water/meth injection before, most recently on an R32 turbo. I just don't feel its necessary on this application. 8psi sounds quite low to me. Mine makes a solid 10psi pretty much through the whole rev range. Could be that you have a cam timing problem there. You want to be careful driving it round if you only have red top injectors in there, by my calculations they only have enough fuel for about 240bhp........ Do you have a wideband lambda connected up? Oh, a few pics of the mess that is:

Yeah, i did consider water/meth injection but i'm not sure the gains would be significant enough for me to bother with. I'm running such a large intercooler i don't think i've seen the charge temps go above 20 degrees! Like i said, i've got a few more ideas to play with but i think i'm pretty much there. Power is peaking just below 7k so there is no need to rev the engine as hard as i thought i might need to. My other option may be to try a smaller pulley but i don't think it would be so much fun with the revs more restricted. I'll take an engine bay shot tomorrow.... nothing much to look at i'm afraid, i think i would describe it as "functional" at the moment! No lightend flywheel at the moment. I have thought about it but at the moment its quite smooth and the paddle clutch is ok, bit worried that a lightend flywheel would ruin that!

I guess you haven't looked at many rolling roads..... More often than not the rollers are pretty much smooth steel rollers. All the rolling road is is a tool to measure the torque produced by the car wheel. If you get much slip between the tyre and the roller then you will have a wildly inaccurate reading as power is just a function or torque and rpm (power = (torque x rpm)/5250) The only problem this can add is that you are going to increase the losses as the tyres effectively stick to the rollers. This is why the rolling road software carries out a run down so it can add back the losses and give an approximate flywheel figure. I could have not sprayed the tyres and just added some wieght up front but this will have a similar effect as you will increase tyre deformation and hence increase the losses.

Running 20vt plugs. Really happy with the gains today, best bit is all the extra torque its making!!! I've not taken it on the road since it was making 248.... and it seemed pretty rapid then!!

Well i've been playing with fueling, cam timing and ignition. Biggest gains have come fromt the ignition timing, added 5-6 degrees pretty much throughout the rev range. Playing with the cam timing hasn't really netted the gains i was hoping for, i think i've either hit a restriction in the inlet/exhaust flow or i've reached the limit of the power i can make from the G60's air flow on a 69mm pulley. Transmission losses were coming out fairly high, around 50bhp i think. Several reasons for this i think as i'm running 17's, we are having to spray belt grip on the tyres to prevent wheels spin and the transmission has only done a few hundred miles so its still very tight. I'll try and remember to get some at the wheels figures. Not so worried about the actual number at the mo, just enjoying seeing the gains and the consistency of it.

Well, had a little more free time this afternoon.... so decided to have a bit more of a play with the mapping. I've upped the fuel pressure to nearly 4bar and put in a lot more ignition timing. The results.... 7 or 8 dyno pulls all over 280bhp :D The best run iirc was 286bhp and 258lbsft. Unfortunately the stormy weather put an end to my fun and has given us a power cut at the workshop. I didn't get a chance to try a few more tweeks i've got planned. Not sure that there is a great deal more to come but if i get some free time again i'll see what i can do. I've done some runs from a lower rpm so i'll get them printed out and put a couple more up. I'm pretty happy with this power level but its getting frustratingly close to 300!!!!

Yeah, your probably right.... already planning on pulling it to bits again to fix a few niggles and get some more bits powder coated!

I think the spec is written elsewhere in the thread but here it is again: ABF 2 litre bottom end, Scat Steel Rods, KR Head (heavily ported by myself) ABF cams, Cut down S2 manifold (modified and ported by myself) ABF sump with baffles added and a windage tray, SLS toothed belt kit (69.1mm) modified to align all the pulleys, SWG twin inlet kit, Audi 1.8t fuel rail and 3bar pressure reg, Rover 385cc injectors (now maxing out so will up fuel pressure) Tezet 4-1 exhaust mainifold, De-cat and supersprint system (2" in places 2.1/4" in others!) PSD stand alone charger oil supply, Emerald M3d Standalone management mapped by me, G60 Auto throttle body with tps. Large front mount intercooler with my own custom end tanks to make it twin pass, All the bits have been gathered over the last 3 years so its nice to finally have it together and see it make some good numbers. Also happy in the knowledge i have a few more tweeks to make so there may well be a bit more to come out of it!

Don't worry about all the questions..... nice that someone takes an interest for a change!! I'm using the throttle body from a G60 Auto, i had it sent over from the state. These have both the throttle switches and a throttle pot. The switches may come in handy one day if i ever get round to fitting a nos kit. lol The engine is very smooth, really impressed with how well its running on the current map considering i have made very few adjustments to it. The 4-1 is very close to the tunnel.... practically touching! Its really meant for a short block motor but it came up on ebay at the right price so i thought i'd give it a go. Its made by Tezet, never seen another one the same but i have heard of the company making 4 branches for a few different cars. I'm almost excited about the project again so hopefully i'll make some time to do a bit more work on the rollers. I'll have to see if i can dig out a 4 bar fuel pressure reg and then see what i can do to get a bit more power out of it!

I've not really driven it too hard yet, been nursing the charger a little bit and i still have some other little bits and pieces that need lookin at. That said, acceleration seems pretty frantic, the level of torque seems to be just right for it to be just trying to break traction in 3rd, makes it a bit of a handful with the Peloquin!! Looking forward to getting all the niggles sorted and actually driving it round a bit!

Yeah, the emerald is great. We have done several 20vt conversions with it and we also used to run a caddy on itb's with it as well. Does everything you need it to and more really. Idle is fine, pretty smooth. I'm not running an isv, idle control is purely done by the ecu adjusting ignition timing. If it were a problem i could add an isv but i have no issues with it tbh. Not running a knock sensor and no egt on there. I have got a wideband kit on it and i've got that fed to the ecu. Feature of the newer emeralds is that you can set target afr's or set it to auto-tune to a desired level. It takes a while to do that so most of the mapping i do live, i leave the wideband to sort the light throttles and cruising sites. Not sure why the plot scaled to start at 2.5k, i'll have to have a look at that when i get 5 mins. All figures are at the flywheel.

Running on emerald.

http://www.clubgti.co.uk/forum/showthre ... bf+kr+cams This has everything you need to know about ABF and KR cams. I was running dual kr exhuast cams with a vernier sprocket on the modded inlet and a vernier pulley. I did have a bit of a play about with them but was never really happy. Seems to make more power on the ABF ones. I got 5 mins this afternoon and the car has a few miles on it now so i chucked it on the rollers to see how things were coming along. After a few little tweeks this is where we are at: Discovered a few problems: FIrstly the 385cc injectors are hitting 91% duty cycle with my 3bar pressure reg. So i need to find myself a 4bar and re-scale my fuel map. Poking about underneath i've had a closer look at my exhaust system, its a supersprint system thats been on there for years and it drops down to 2" towards the end. Going to borrow a bigger system and see if that frees it up at all. I tried addin a couple of degrees of advance and saw some good gains so i want to get a tank of optimax in there and try upping the advance a fair bit more. Boost seems to be pegged at 10psi pretty much through the entire rev range. So..... basically i think there is a fair bit more to come. :D

I've got a lovely Holbay Engineering billet crank with a 94mm stoke, knife edged, cross drilled etc. For sale now as i'm not going to get round to using it. Nice combo of a longer than stock 2l stroke but not so long as to be lazy like a tdi crank.

I'll let you know once i've put it back on the rollers. Just got to get some miles on the charger and iron out a few snags. I need a bigger radiator and i need to sort out a better solution for the block breather.

I'll probably map mine to 8k. I'm on a 68 toothed belt tho which i think equates to 69.1mm. That said i am running a stand alone charger oil feed and i probably dont do more than 2-3k a year. Probably plan for a re-build every other year. I've also got a diesel 5th so motorway cruising is going to keep revs well down.

Wow.... my thread back from the dead.... De-locked handles are an easy mod, usually done using passat rear handles. You need both the handle and the latch mech to make it all work. Incidentally i've got a set of painted ones that actually came from a Seat of some description. Currently they are white but it would be easy to have them painted another colour now and no special priming would be needed. P.M me if your interested in them. I love the look of the de-locked and colour coded handles, i think its the best thing you can do to update the look of your corrado. Well, update on the progress of the car. Yes it is all up and running. I had it running just before E38 last year. Had a bit of a play on the rolling road. It was making about 240bhp @ 6000 rpm which was as high as i was taking it while i was checking out the mapping. Its currently running a map which we did for a 1.8t rallye and seems to be working quite nicely. The engine was holding torque nicely so i'm expecting power to stay climbing as and when i rev it harder. Judging by the way things were going i would have said 260-270 @7500 should be easily possible. Bear in mind that this is only a base map currently and i have made very few changes to timing and fuel. I was having major issues with the toothed belt set up, think it only managed about 30miles on 2 belts. Soon after this i sold the original engine and charger so i had to send my spare charger to be re-built. I had a small delay (3months!) in getting it back so the project went a bit dead for a while..... Anyways, end of jan and i've got a fresh charger back, i've come up with a new toothed belt routing, swapped the duel kr exhaust cams for a set of ABF cams and as of today i can go and tax the thing and start putting some miles on it. I've had a couple of sneaky drives of it and everything seems to be going well, i love the wey the 16v jus seems to pull harder and harder. Managed to ration myself to about 4.5k at the moment till i get some miles on it. Major things on the to do list are to re-locate the battery to the boot as the tiny one i have to run to clear the boost pipes jus can't seem to start the thing. The poor car is in desperate need of a clean and some TLC. Hopefully i'll find the love again and get back on it!! If i remember i'll take a pic of the engine bay with everything in, its all really tight in there now!

Quick bit of education for you...... If they are thinking Big Block Chevy then you will be looking at around 7 litres, the 5.7 is only the baby small block! I've got a mate in the first year at Brookes doing one of the motorsport courses. Awsome looking facilities they have there.

Looking good. Quick question for you...... Where did you get the panel to repair the battery tray area??

I take it they have just had your car in and code read it??.... Is it a VR6? If so most MAF's are now less than £100 from VAG. The engine speed sensor fault code will come up if the engine is not running.... so you may not need one of them. i seem to remember they are around £100 if you really do need it. They lambda thing..... someone has probably at one time fitted a cheap universal sensor, these usually mean cutting off the original plug so it may no longer be possible to plug one straight in.

It was a tacho signal that we got from the climate control output. We were wiring in a boost controller which controls boost on rpm.

If you search on Vortex you will find something about this. There is a signal from the ecu which usually goes to the climate control. I'll try and remember when i get to work to see if i can find what pin it is. We used a signal from this to wire in a boost controller on an R32 Turbo