vdubjb
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Everything posted by vdubjb
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1/2 the corrados in the states are in california...
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head gasket, or waterpump...
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2149084&page=1 :D
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http://www.corrado-club.ca/tech/schrick-stock-eip.pdf
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VR6 belt tensioner bearing replacement - how to.
vdubjb replied to PhatVR6's topic in Suppliers Forum
I just bought a replacement from the guy on Vortex, quality product. -
What sort of mods required to get a VR6 upto 220/230 bhp
vdubjb replied to V3DUB's topic in Engine Bay
on every RR I've done, the 3 pull has always been the highest. -
http://www.notlooking.co.uk/video.htm
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http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.asp ... 876ED5&p=0
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red yellow, blue and green
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http://www.crank-scrapers.com/
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mintex c-tech's are another way of catagorising 1144's...
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You guys have bigger ones than we do, I can only imagine how nice a 68mm would be w/ my BVH and 268°'s
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strictly foreign lights. horrid, and I believe you have to hack up your lighting harness to get them to work.
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Are any of you guys using Cat cams? They are getting very popular here due to the low cost, great gains. The company is actually based in Belgium.
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The stock flywheel sort of stores energy coming from the engine. Having it be haevy, makes it easy to shift the ccar slowly, like on hills. Reducing this weight will make the engine run through the rpms faster, but it also means that when you close the throttle, it will dramtically lower the rpms as well. Stop and go and starting on hills will suck arse. Another issue is heat. The stock f/w is able to dissipate heat through mass. Removing mass increases the thermal load on the flywheel. If you arent racing the car, I'd say dont do it, if you are having the clucth replaced or any kind of tranny work, then have a few pounds removed, but perhaps not too radical.
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schrick isnt considering the fact that you can add standalone to the car. If I could find the dyno (rolling road) chart, I'd paste it here. The car makes power w/ schrick 268's and boost. It has been for quite some time. Dont be lulled to sleep by conventional wisdom. http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2004988 I suspect that drag racing is a bit more popular over here.
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greenstuffs are pants on heavy cars, even more so if you use slotted rotors. Ferodos', Mintex c-techs.
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it's a misconception that you need to run a mild cam for F/I. You just need to be able to fuel the cam more carefully. A well known guy here runs boost with 268°'s, but he runs piggyback fueling. Dyno was over 400hp, with an additional 40-50 hp at redline with the 268's. Overlap was no problem. I suspect the cat cams or any other will be just fine with boost, so long as you pay attention to your fueling.
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With our horrendous currency, I suggest you buy them from here! TTTuning.com . 2.5inch fully stainless, rolling road proven. :D
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80mm is low as fook! I was lowered 60mm and I nearly destroyed everything under the engine block!
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ah, had no idea...
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How do you tighten the bolt so that the orifice in the line is lined up with the one in the bolt?
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Indeed, the shocks came w/ the springs. The springs bottom out. They are supposed to be 40mm, but the quality control is so horrid, they are moe like 60mm. They are not stiff enough.
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I wouldnt even wear a Weitec tshirt after my current experience. The springs are too bouncey and they allow the front end of the car to crash and porpoise over any significant bumps. I am tearing the springs out and putting Neuspeeds in after 2 years of pain and destroyed suspension components.