Rpmayne

That black box sits between the throttle assembly and the bulk head. There's two air pipes going to it and a barbed pin which fits into another pipe just for support. If you look round that area you should see the remains of the fittings. I blew mine up and bought the whole thing for about £20. Its only a box with a bit of foam in it. Easy to fit.

Well the sensor wasn't the problem, and it does it when cold now. Just got back from being towed again :( Finished work, tried to start car, turns over but not firing and I could smell unburnt petrol again. Jacked the car up and changed the sensor (keep all my tools in the car now, feel like I've bought an Italian car). Turned it over and it ran. Thought wicked, shut the bonnet, put the tools away and it stalled. Started again and went for it.. got about 500yds down the road and nothing. "Hello, me again, any chance of a tow?". This time the rev counter died. Should have be doing about 2000rpm, let the clutch up in gear, engine turning but now revs reading. Now sitting on my drive f**cked again. :x Thinking about towing it into the garden and planting a tree in it, except the sunroof probably wouldn't bloody open. By far the worst car I have ever bought, and getting worse! :cry:

Update to this problem.. Received the new crack position sensor, removed the old one which had no signs of mechanical damage and replaced it with the new one. I took the new one out again to check it was sitting correctly and it had a layer of fine metal dust on it, was standing up cos of the magnet. Thought the oil might be too dirty (2nd change after the rebuild) so changed it again. Problem still there. Had another thought.. How does the rev counter work? When the engine dies the rev counter still displays the engines decreasing revs. If it gets its signal from the crank position sensor it must be ok. Now I know the oil change didn't fix it (hopeful I know) I might just change the sensor tonight to eliminate it.

Have just this second ordered a sensor from the b**tard stealers for £140.00, just gonna try that now because the amount of time the garage is spending trying to sort the problem will probably cost me that. There was a strong smell of unburnt petrol when the engine had got hot, stalled and on turning over to restart. Should get the sensor tomorrow morning so i'll find out either way then.

Cheers mate!

The problem is I don't know anyone who has a VR6 near me. Might give a few scrap yards a ring to see whether they have one. Its the sensor mounted on the front face of the block yer, bottom right corner?

Alright all, the VR's still down the garage having made no progress with the problem.. Just a couple of extra clues if anyone can help. Sorry to keep asking so much but I'm having difficulty finding people who have worked on VR's: 1. Very consistently stalling when hot, oil being over 70deg. C. 2. Sometimes starts again. When it doesn't I can smell unburnt pertrol out the exhaust. 3. VAG-COM doesn't always report errors at this point. G28 Engine speed sensor occasionally occurs. I'm thinking that everything else is working other than the sparks if there is fuel being delivered. Doesn't splutter when it stalls, just completely cuts out. Same when starting again, all or nothing. Could it be the Coil pack?? Must be some problem common to all of the plugs. Does the VAG-COM get any feedback from the coilpack to tell whether its working or not? Thanks!

You should be able to find where the wires have been cut put in series with the alarm switches. The easiest way is probably to trace back from the main unit, and where you see a coloured wire chopped in half and put in series with two black wires (or otherwise depending on the alarm), remove the black wires and reconnect. If you're going to do all that though you may aswell fit the new one, orthough it probably needs to have a fitting certificate for the insurance.

I'm borrowing a mk1 1600 from the local garage at the moment while the VR6 is in for work. Tatty round the edges but the drive is wicked. Driving like a hooligan with the back wheel lifting hasn't stopped me grinning (as mentioned earlier, something which seems to have been gradually been lost over the generations). :twisted: Also owned a mk1 1800Gti Lhasa green (how common on here?) and still regret selling it. :( I've been very tempted to buy another one after that and get rid of the Corrado. The VR is a brittle, dulled down car in comparison. Maybe its me but I like the heavy clutch and brake, a good old solid linkage gear change and the lively responsive drive. Wipping the Saxo / Corsa lot in a 20 year old car to me is far more rewarding than a Corrado too. :) I honestly think you should keep your mk1 then get something else for your family / comfort. Original and still the best. (off soap box with another pint.)

I blew my ISV dampener box up when the fuel was primed for too long. My was a terminal ECU fault which kept the fuel pump priming and the injectors open constently. This was cured by a new ECU. Your problem doesn't sound that drastic though, could be a injector problem flooding I suppose.

Are the hangers a bolt on job then? Didn't think they made VR6's as early as 1990, thought they were all 92' onwards so had the later hangers. :?:

Thanks people, I've passed on the comments to the garage. Thinking about it the block has been painted and I used some sealant around the o-ring. Maybe a bad earth but thinking the bolt would still make contact. Didn't realise how much those sensors are, buy inductive sensors at work for about £30.00. Definitely won't buy one to rule it out. They are going to check all that for me and hopefully that will sort it. Thanks again!

Just been on the phone to a Bosch tuneup garage and they said that the crank sensor would cause the symptoms. Apparently the ISV and lambda would cause a few more problems like rough running aswell which I'm not getting, its just all or nothing. The garage the cars with has ruled out the ignition somehow already. I'm thinking I might just buy the crank position sensor.. Phoned VW, they don't keep it under that name.. Is it known by anything else such as engine speed sensor or knock sensor? Cheers for the help!

The VR is fine when cold and warm, but when its been running for a while it starts to cut out with no spluttering, just dies.. It then will not restart until it has cooled down. Have taken it to a local garage but they need more to go on. The ECU is only giving a crank position sensor fault which is generated once it has stalled. I can't see why this would be the cause only when hot. When its running the engine is smooth with no obvious loss of performance. Has anyone had any problems similar with some clues I can give the garage. Thanks!

That was the last code from the car before it stalled again. Communications with the ECU was also lost and the car would not restart. Any ideas?? I know this could anything, the only things I got to go on are; - Only seems to occur when the car is hot - The engine has always occassionally stalled at idle.. Now does it when running. - Intermittent, between stalls the engine seems very healthy - Sometimes the engine can be restarted straight away, other times it needs to be left for over 10mins. - The code mentioned above and the VAG-COM connection being lost.. Possible loss of supply to ECU? - Maybe the alarm?? Its a laserline, Italian website, all .pdf's in Italian. Any ideas how Corrados are immobilised? Want to link the alarm out to take it out of the list of causes. The Laserline site doesn't recognise the Corrado as a VW car.. Typical, great having a classic (rare, so not much consumer interest hence not much support.. Gimme back my mkII golf!!!)

If you have an exhaust with bar hangers on it, does that then mean if the car has bar hangers also it will fit? What's the alternative to bar hangers, the sort of hook type?

Form looking at the codes list I think mine had the following. The engine wasn't running though so would this error come up anyway? 00281 Vehicle Speed Sensor - No Signal (G68) Would a problem with this sensor cause the engine to die intermittently when warm/hot? Whenever it has cut out, leaving it for a while (10mins and above) and trying again has made it start. Take it this would be a stealer option only..

Does anyone know where to get a list of the error codes for a VR6? Local garage told me which errors they read but I need a list to remember exactly what it said? Another question following if so...

Will give it a go tonight, cheers. This car has been a test to say the least. Most things have gone wrong, some self inflicted but on the whole the car had beened flogged to near death. Just can't understand why so much has gone wrong, and now understand why sourcing VR patent parts is so difficult, stealer seemed the only option most of the time. Re-bore - leading to oversized pistons and rings (82.5mm), Guildford auto's Hydraulic lifters worn - Replaced Broken upper chain tensioner - Replaced along with guides / chains / tensioners top and bottom Alternator belt tensioner bearings knackard - replaced whole unit Alternator putting out 18v - regulator changed, no op, energiser cable had shorted, bought un-needed VW alternator. Leaking water pump - right laugh to change that, so much engine, so little space Worn valve guides - Replaced by specialist Valve stem seals Plugs oily from knackard engine Bottom end rebuild - Big ends, mains, little ends, all seals - by 16VG60 Head gasket Dead ECU - probably self inflicted This is scaring me just thinking of the list so far, and now its down the local garage because it broke down 15mls from my house and had to be towed back. :( Had cut out a few times when running, this time wouldn't start again.. That was until it got back to the garage. :mad: To make it even better I hadn't done the bonnet release cable bolt up properly so the mechanic couldn't even open the bonnet to have a look. :oops: Won't go into what he had to say about that.. Surely it will all be over soon, beachy head isn't far from me, just not sure whether to get out of the car or not yet.. or if it will even get me there. :)

Anyone got any ideas how to release the two bonnet catches if the cable has broken? Tried taking the grill off but can't get my hands round the lights to get to the catches.

Thanks for the help, found out what it was. The blue control wire going to the ignition and dash had been rubbing against the oil cooler braided hoses and shorted out. :roll: Re-soldered the wire and tidied up the loom with some new tape, now charging ok and it shouldn't happen again. Thanks.

The battery warning LED stays on.. Have found LED's can be sensitive to over-voltage (or rather the increase in current) in the past. Just weird cos this smoke incident happened about 2 weeks ago and the battery warning light has only been staying on in the last week. How easy is it to take the dash out? About as easy as working on the engine? :?

I haven't got anything on the blue wire.. If I run a temporary 12v from the battery to the alternator connector and run the car, I should be able to check the output then yer? Thinking this is related now, I had a duff alternator putting 18v out, thought it was the regulator so changed that. One morning I try to start the car and mysterious white unhappy capacitor smelling smoke came from somewhere around the dashboard. No fuses gone, no evidence of burning looking up from the foot well, I drove to work. Bought a fire extinguisher at lunch time and thought nothing else of it. Think I might have to have the dash out to look for more evidence.

Sorry mate, what's DOA mean? It's early and I'm probably being more stupid than normal.

This is driving me mad. :x The big cable to the starter motor then battery is connected, the big earth to the gearbox is connected. I've got battery volts between the alternator pin and the engine / battery earth. The earths and supplies are fine. Brand new battery and alternator. Alternator belt is spinning it aswell. When the engines off the battery reads 12.97v, when the engines running it reads approx. 12.10v. Tried taking the cable off the alternator, running the engine and checking the output. 0.5v :( This is all leading me to the only other connection to the battery. What does the small blue cable connection do? Bentley says it connects to the dashboard, I was thinking its just for the warning light? Any ideas? Any help will save this VR6 from a complete battering with a very large torque wrench and one very dis-satisfied owner. :mad: Cheers!