Rpmayne

VR6-er, thanks for the link. I have already ordered the rings and shells from VAG though. Not even sure how much they have cost me yet, getting to the point where I don't really care and let the credit card take the battering. I've rebuilt a 8v golf head (stem seals, springs, lifters, head gasket etc) and taken an engine out of a 16v although I used an angle grinder which meant I didn't need a hoist. Long story but wrote that car off, cut it up into bits and took it down the local tip. This VR6 is the biggest job I have taken on, just be prepared for the list of required bits to spiral out of control. From an original estimate of about £600 I think its going to end up nearer £1500.00. Kevhaywire, suppose I should really get this oil cooler after doing all this..

Incase anyone else is having trouble with this; Although I had used the unistall then deleted the main directory when it failed, traces were left in step 3 of the instructions below. I'd advise saving the registry as another name as a backup just incase. Once I did the following it installed no problem: If you want to totally delete the presence of the cd on the hard drive: 1. Search for, and Remove the lines in the software areas of the registry that contain "Bentley", including children. 2. Search for, and Remove the lines in the software areas of the registry that contain "vwcr" (check carefully on this one) 3. In winnt\system32, remove all entries of vwcr*.*, and rb*.* (check carefully each one) Empty the recyle bin, restart, login as administrator, empty the recycle bin again, shutdown, restart again, empty the recyle bin. There is a vestige kept in memory which re-applies an amendment the hosts.* file, hence this naff step.

VR6-er, on the coast near Brighton. I don't see too many Corrado's round these parts. Will have a good look round the site, the new rings and valve guide work should be done by next weekend so in the meantime i'll read a much as possible. Think I got the crank timing sorted.. The ground tooth on the crank sprocket lines up with the join of the crank bearing housing and the bottom of the block (90deg. CCW from vertical), and the intermediate sprocket has an arrow pointing upwards meeting with a line on the block. At this point pistons 1 and 6 are TDC which sounds about right.

Mate, you'd be lucky to get 3000rpm out of that car. Is was a bit pot luck which gear you ended up selecting from the bowl of nut soup that was the left stick thing though. By the end it sounded like a cross-cut gearbox. :) Back to the ally bits, has anyone else noticed what poor quality they are compared to a 16v mk2 golf inlet manifold for instance. Air holes, horrible casting marks (hidden on the underside granted), thin, the look of more magnesium than aluminium in the mix. There seems to be abit of cost cutting going on. :?

Nice one, i'll have a look tonight. Not going to get the engine back together until next weekend at the earliest so have time to do the tarty bits. Have no car to run around in now, a garage lent me a Rover 214GSi with a blown head gasket as a courtesy car. Took it back yesterday with a blown gearbox. :? Maybe I'm doing something wrong! :roll:

Has anyone else bought the Bentley CD-ROM from ebay? I had it running on my PC with no problems, then I got short of space so had to temporarily remove the program. I did this through add/remove programs, then it said it failed so I deleted the directory. Now when I go to setup it asks for the language to install, but once its been selected nothing else happens. In desperate need of the information with my motor apart, I know it wasn't the best time to be removing the program but never thought I would have trouble re-installing it.

As I have my VR6 in bits at the moment I got the inlet manifolds and cam cover sand blasted and polished. I'm after some sort of clear lacquer that will withstand the heat and won't come off with oil / petrol etc.. Any ideas?

Just incase anyone else is experiencing similar problems mentioned above, the cause could be the same as below. Just to recap, this is a 87,000mls '93 VR6 with a full service history. As can be quite clearly seen, cylinders 1 and 6 and f**ked! I took the head down for new guides, and although they were worn (not to limit), I was advised that the valve stem seals were actually doing their job. So wheres the oil coming from then?? (I asked with a sinking feeling).. Piston rings. Bugger!!

Well, the engines out and the head is now off, what a state. 1 and 6 were noticeable worse as far as oil and coke was concerned. Have also found the heads been off before.. The timing chain fixed guide had been overtightened so breaking the fixing hole surround (in the guide), a bolt was missing from the cover, and the inlet manifolds have been ported. The timing chain tensioner was also worn and broken where the bottom pop-rivets are. Now in the process of getting the valves cleaned, guides changed and valves reseated. Just have one or two little questions if anyone can help.. 1. The piston bores are all comming out at 82.00mm. The honing marks are still visible aswell. Does this sound like the bores are ok? 2. Whats the best way to clean the top of the pistons without getting all the dirt down the bores? 3. Crank Timing. How can I make sure the crank is TDC? The flywheel had to come off so I could mount the engine and look at the chains so I've lost the flywheel TDC mark (moved the crank to check the bores). There is a ground tooth on the crank chain sprocket but when piston 1 (and 6) are at top this mark is about 90 degrees back from top. 4. Cam timing. Just want to check really but if both cams are in the correct position for cylinder 1 TDC, the cutouts in the end of each cam should be inline and their bottom edge should be inline with the heads top edge.. ? (so allowing the VW official setting piece to fit, which I don't have) Ta

I give up.. tried 2 more VW specialists with no joy. Jabbasport even advised me not to buy them as they have known a G60 kit fitment with nothing but problems. Apparently the pipes kept popping off! Maybe I'm too used to Golf parts being so easily obtainable but this is too much.

Having a nightmare finding anyone with stock.. Demon tweaks don't have any and Venom motorsport said they have stopped selling them completely because of the rediculous order times. The search continues...

Cheers, tried hose direct but they haven't got any in stock either. Might buy PVW tonight and go through the trade sections. Will post if I have any luck and anyone else is after any.

Henny, I take it its strong enough to undo the gearbox etc while its attached to the stand? Will it take the VR6? Kevhaywire, gonna do the gaskets and bolts from VW as you say now, don't want to regret it later. Phoned up a machine shop near me, £75.00 for pressing new guides and reseating excluding the guides, although they will sorce them. Does that sound ok? Cheers for the help!

Does anyone keep this kit on the shelf? I'm getting waiting times of around 12 weeks, some not even comitting themselves to that! Preferrably blue which seems to be the most common colour anyway, I'm having the whole engine out and was thinking of replacing these at the same time. Also, is £225.00 for the kit about right? Ta.

Right, being brave this weekend and removing the engine for an overhawl. Smoke on overrun, oily spark plugs and an alternator problem have prompted this work now. Have another car to use for a while aswell so time should hopefully be on my side for a change. Below is a list of parts I think I need so far with prices. I have tried to use GSF as much as possible except for items which I thought weren't worth chancing. Saying that I've used GSF head gasket sets etc before with no problems. Head gasket set (VW £135.22) Hydraulic lifters set (GSF £111.00) Valve guide set(GSF £15.00) Both chain tensioners (VW £45.52) Head bolt set (GSF £14.00) Spark plug set (GSF £15.00) Sachs clutch (GSF £82.00) I've added the clutch as its original on 82,000mls and thought I may as well do it now. The prices above exclude VAT. The total including VAT comes out at £490.84 I was quoted at least £500+VAT labour for the above so I'm going to attempt it myself. Does anyone know of any suitable way of mounting the engine out of the car to do the clutch and head? What do people think on the list? Still seems expensive to me, and that is excluding the chains which I would have ideally liked to have done aswell. VW prices would add about £100 more..

Has anyone taken the complete engine / geabox out of a VR6? Planning on doing the head, tensioners, clutch etc in one go. If the engine and gearbox can be removed / installed in one lump, doing all the work in the warm then installing it complete seems good to me. Is this possible, and are there purpose made engine stands to do the job? Also PhatVR6, any luck with the timing, chain / tensioner tips? Cheers.

I'm abit worried now, 1 and 6 means the rings? Mine started misfiring then constantly running rough. Turned out being the 6th spark coated in oil. Replaced it and its running ok although using 1litre/1000 miles and can very rarely be arsed to idle anymore. Starting to sound rattly now aswell from dropping the clutch to keep restarted it while rolling. I sort of expected abit better from a car which has done 85,000mls with a full service history, reliable VW's :shock:

How are they gonna find out? Unless you have a very expensive claim I can't see them taking your engine apart to see whether the cams are different or surfaces are abit smoother than they should be. An induction kit might be abit obvious though.

Will look forward to those tips, mine is going to need new valve stem seals so any information on how to remove the chain / tensioners / re-aligning the cams etc would be most appreciated.

Cheers for the reply mate.

I know there is the club gti forum for this sort of question, but seeing that a few of you have gone the same golf to corrado route as me, does anyone know whether springs from a '90 16v gti will fit a '89 8v? I thought the only difference between them is the 20mm lower ride height of the 16v. Just need to make sure. Cheers.

Supercharged, I got the garage I bought the car from to fit new disks and pads all round before I bought it. They fitted Lockheed parts which I thought were standard fitment and pretty good.

I think I have managed to warp the front disks on my VR6. Get a faint squeak when driving, squeal when braking moderately which turns into judder through the stearing when braking hard. My question is can I just get the disks skimmed (only 6months old) and then use the same pads, or will they also be deformed from the disks. Can they be reconditioned, crudely using fine sand paper or something? I can get the disks skimmed for nothing, know new pads would probably be best but as usual the pennies are abit tight. Ta

My old mkII golf 16v did the same thing, the sensor on the oil filter mount broke down. If you have the same problem, remove the plug and you might see some oil residue round it. New one needed if so. I think the sensor is supposed to be closed to earth when the oil pressure is good. If the alarm sounds constantly now, remove the connector and short it to earth. If the alarm stops its the sensor, if not it could be the cable.

My mate fitted a 4-1 magnex manifold and complete system to his 16v mkII golf and got 160bhp. (up from 139) Very noticeable improvement, 140mph on the clock. I also fitted a similar system to an 8v mkII golf with induction kit and got 130bhp (up from 112). These were dyno readings, not sure what the power actually was before but the driving was definitely more fun. :D Possibly lost abit of bottom end with those manifolds though.