Rpmayne

On the rare occassions i'm not nailing it the stereo comes in handy. Has to be bloody loud to drown out the VR anyway. :) Have got a 10" sub in the boot, components at the front and a 4x100w amp driving it. Sounds ok, just missing the low to mid range which the 6x9's seemed to do pretty well.

After getting though 2 sets of kicker 6x4 direct replacements (1st set replaced under warranty, sound good but reliability is shite), can anyone recommend some other replacements? Used to run 6x9's or 7x10's in old cars but didn't want to butcher the rear shelf this time round. Do miss the mid-range though. Has anyone managed to find some good direct replacement speakers (40wRMS or better), or managed to fit some larger speakers under the original grilles?

The block of metal with pipes coming out of it being a supercharger. Think the guy at Euro car parts was taking the piss mate. :)

The pistons will probably be 82.985. Pistons that cheap.. Wait until you start redoing everything else though to keep up, all the bearings, gaskets, oil pump, head work, chains/tensioners. Afterall, if you're doing the pistons you may aswell do everything else plus some... I seriously regret not working the figures out better before I started. Look at how much you can get a re-manufactured VR for, then work out the hassle you'll avoid if you pay someone to do it on an agreed price. Then look at your parts list. Even sourcing the right bits is a laugh. With the money plus mistakes I made, I could have had a reconditioned 2.9L with a turbo now. :shock: Live and learn.

I think the difference between the piston and the bores is 0.125mm. The originalpistons which came out were stamped as 81.985mm, and the bore (unworn part) was 82.00mm. Think you've got to be abit careful how big you go with the rebore, any more than 83.00mm and problems like ovalisation can occur more easily. Speaking to Stealth they didn't think the extra 0.1cc (83.00mm) capacity would make alot of odds, plus thats the final rebore size so next time its new block time. Hopefully that will be along time away though, theres alot of info about this on the Vortex forum somewhere.

Stealth sell the Mahle (original make and quality) pistons and rings set, I bought a set of oversized 82.5 pistons for about £600.00.

One question, why don't VW fit lighter flywheels as standard? I thought the engine breaking effect would be reduced with the reduced load on the engine not slowing it down as quick? And the quicker engine response leading to a less smooth ride when cruising? Just interested really, must be some down points, there usually is a compromise somewhere.

If you do want to do the piston rings, I have enough for 5 of the 6 for sale. You'd just need to get one more set. They're original VW, can't remember how much they cost me now, £180 for the set sounds familiar but will check. I was just going to re-ring mine but had ovalisation so went the rebore / oversized pistons route. 16vg60 did the bottom end rebuild and one of the new oversized piston rings was damaged in transit, so rather than wait around for a replacement we used one of the VW ones.

Have you tried heating them up with a blow torch or something? I did this on a mk2 golf and they came off no probs, it was getting the bushes out which was the nightmare.

So do mine, although turning the stereo up seems to sort the problem. Can't really be arsed to fix it, like the sunroof intermittently working, and the rear spoiler, and the heater switch, and the rear view mirror fell off (blamed that on autoglass).. Just don't use them anymore. Good old Corrado, if only everything was as reliable as a... By the way, 190 merc, E-reg, 120,000. Not a sound, solid as a rock. Always thought there wasn't much between BMW, Merc and VW in the build department, very very wrong.

Thanks for the info, will have a look at the Halfords option a keep an eye on ebay. To be honest I thought the original VAG one would be over £200 so its not such a shock. Think I'm starting to get used to the Corrado cost of things, at least the credit is.

Not really a tuning issue, more a de-tune but does anyone know the best place to get a roof rack for the Corrado? Going canoeing / cycling more now and need one, was hoping one off a skoda / seat or something would fit instead so hopefully costing abit less than asking for a Corrado one. Thanks.

So maybe there is one good point for the VR6 running so hot then. :wink: Saw a tv program about F1 engines and the exhaust was almost see-though it ran so hot. Mad.

A mate had a 16v golf mk2 with a full magnex exhaust and 4-1 manifold. After a head rebuild with everything else standard it put out 160bhp, and felt very quick compared to my 16v without the manifold. He didn't use any tape though. I'd definitely buy it if its under £100, new ones are over £250 as I remember.

Do the later Corrados have the mph, digital revs etc? I remember reading somewhere that this only works with pre '93 cars or something? My speedo is out by about 10mph through the range aswell compared to gps, the top speed and 0-60s i had don't look so good now.

I don't think the Milltek is really that loud at all. Is quite deep at idle but above 2500rpm ish it quietens right down, no louder than the OE exhaust, just sounds deeper which I think's good. I don't like loud exhausts either and I think the Milltek has a long way to go before it can be classed as loud.

Does the decapped remove the full stops aswell? :wink:

Si B, I had a Jetex system on a mk2 8v and thought the fit was excellent, and sounded good but not too loud. It had a little rubber bung on the top of the back box to stop it hitting the floor, and a different rear hanger to make fitting it alot easier. Had a Scorpion on a 16v mk2 and it was louder (still sounded cool) and the fitment was nowhere near as good. Used to hit the rear axle with or without people in the back. The car was lowered 40mm but the Jetex never did that with a similar setup. Had a Milltek fitted recently to the VR and I think it sounds pretty cool. Just abit deeper and louder than standard, goes very quiet midrange so no droan on the motorway, usless going over 120 when it gets abit louder which is understandable. :)

I've seen two types of sunroof motor, one with a flat screw head for manual operation, and one with a plastic cover you slide 90deg. then use an allen key for manual operation. Each had a different connector on the motor although you may be able to rewire it to work. Not sure whether they are mechanically interchangeable.

The original EPROM carrying the fuel map information etc was soldered directly into the board in my ECU. I think most installers would unsolder the original then fit a socket so the chips can be interchanged without soldering everytime. If you have got a socket in your ECU you should be able to just remove the ecu from the car, undo the 4 screws heatsink end then slide the board and heatsink out. Try not to touch any of the board, and earth yourself aswell to stop static damage. Carefully levering a screwdriver between the EPROM and the socket should remove the chip square enough. Also be careful to fit the chip in the correct way round. Theres usually a dot marking pin 1 on the EPROM or a semicircle mark one end, also meaning the top left pin is pin 1. It depends how much solder is on the pins, but if its just a thin layer the socket should take it ok. Any more and you may need to use a soldering iron to heat the solder to remove the high spots.

You may be able to use a tap wrench long enough to hold the EZ-out extractor, only problem is the chuck might be too wide to fit down the spark plug channel. Will have to see what you can get hold of, a local machine shop to you might lend you one for a small fee. Or find a socket and extensions which will fit the extractor.

Just been reading a few help pages, and the dis-similar metals of aluminium and steel can teld to 'weld' themselves together if some anti-seize compound hasn't been used. A few people have had this problem (google search), and a few go on about an 'EZ-out' extractor tool. Probably something like the reverse thread tool on the link below: http://www.gandmtools.com/photos%20251-300/0300.html No drilling, screw it in the leftover part of the plug until its tight then it should start undoing the plug... Is the theory.

Don't know how a stud extractor is going to get the plug out, unless he's going to drill and tap the plug with an opposite thread, screw a long piece of stud then use the extractor to unscrew it. Main danger is getting swarf on the piston I would have thought, or drilling the head spark plug thread by mistake. That's if theres even enough meat inside the plug to get a thread and stud in. Head off is easier for the spark plug removal, but you're going to get into.. while the heads off, why don't you... If your VW specialist has been good in the past I'd probably let him try. If it doesn't work then take the head off, last resort like. Harsh luck, hope it goes ok.

The engine in mines a '94 ABV and I've got the black clip on pickup for the cam position sensor. Can see it when the sensor is removed, and has got a crack across it as it happens. Maybe yours is missing Robbo so the sensor has nothing to pick up on. Hoping mine is going to stay where it is for a while, and not get stuck under a cam or something stupid. :(

Haven't checked the pressures recently but last done it was 36psi front and 32psi rear. What do you run? Not sure about the condition of the bushes, is there any easy way to tell whether they're shot? No knocking so assume they are still there. :roll: