Pickard1

Have you tried adjusting the gear selector cables? It might solve one of your problems instantly. :lol: I think the suggestion that the 8v engine is poo isnt really correct. You can count on one hand the number of owners on here that have had a pg engine (not discounting the charger) fail. Assuming the temps are correct, i.e no thermostat or oil probs, it seems to be a pretty bulletproof unit. Mine too is a daily drive and embarking on an engine swap is likely to leave you car-less for some time! Edit: another point is economy. My brother runs an ABF golf. to get anywhere near g60 potential with that means completely screwing the MPG figs. Fair enough his golf is about as fast as my C, but he's lucky to see 20 MPg due to all the fettling. If your doing 240 miles a week then your really gonna feel that in your wallet.

Im not sure what your problem is, but if the oil light is beeping you need to pull over and stop driving ASAP. That means the oil pressure is low. Oil starvation will wreck your charger and engine. I currently have a mystery oil leak too. Im gunking the engine tomorrow morning to try and isolate where its coming from, as the whole engine is coated at present.

Ok, cheers guys. Sounds like all is as it should be. I was concerned I had broken something :oops: I will try again next weekend with some penetrating oil.

Hi, I have been leaking from the plastic flange at the expansion tank end of the cylinder head for a while. I have brought a new one and came to try and fit it today but couldnt get the old one off. According to the ETKA description it is held on by two M8 allen head bolts. Mine appears to be held on by two studs coming out of the cylinder head with nuts fastening the flange on. Followed by an earth wire and then some more nuts holding that in place. I have tried to undo the nuts but everything is corroded and the whole lot statrted to turn. Now I'm worried that ive sheared off the stud inside the head.... Any ideas how this should work?? :?

You want to check that the door moulding is correct. They seem to have changed it at some point, the stuff i was supplied with had a different surface texture. I ended up having to replace the whole car due to missing one piece as the new stuff didnt match. Dont know if anyone else has found this.....

If you have hot top hose and cold bottom hose it sounds like the thermostat. I had similar symptoms on my G60 which is not a million miles away in terms of cooling system. I would expect temp sensors to slowly drift over time rather than suddenly reading high, but these are also worth replacing as well. The thermostat is a cheap and easy fix to try before replacing the waterpump (or you could remove it as you say but it will be bloody freezing at this time of year til it warms up :lol: ) It is recommended to use a genuine VW thermostat as well, some people have fitted cheap copies and found that they dont work or fail quickly. There is a guide for thermostat change on the G60, i think it is the same on a 16v. Perhaps someone could confirm....?

I have this thread saved in my favorites :lol: http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... 60+fan+run The thermostat is easy to change, the waterpump is a bit more involved.

My girlfriend worked at an estate agent as PA to the mortgage advisor for 5 years, through doing that she now has friends that work as solicitors who will waive the legal fees etc and no fees from the mortgage advisor either. Apparently they are all at it, this is why all estate agents are loaded. They tip each other off when an investment bargain is coming up before its even in the papers and then get their mates to handle the paperwork. Ive heard of people who are 22-23 yrs old who only earn 15k a year but have 2 or 3 properties all through knowing all the loopholes to jump through. Still there has to be some upshot to being made to drive round in a new shape mini with advertising stickers down the side :lol:

You are likely to see lots of new Astons if you live around coventry as they are made there. The factory has a fleet of test cars that are taken out on routes around the local area containing built up, motorway, country lane etc. driving for 'milage accumulation' Also the engineers are allowed to borrow these cars at the weekends and evenings to take home. Lucky gits :lol:

yes, and the goof isnt bad either :lol:

I'm not sure if anyone is interested but here are some pictures of my little brothers new toy. Its not really my cup of tea, not as nice as a rado, but I suppose it still looks pretty cool 8) He has found the back end to be a bit lively, im not sure if this is normal, which has eventually resulted in a slide into a curb in the snow- hence the space saver. its got a 2ltr 16v conversion as well as a few body mods and has recently been resprayed. What should he have paid....? I think he paid a bit too much :lol: - more than enough to get a decent vr6 rado anyway :roll:

You definitely need to get it checked out to make sure theres nothing untoward going on underneath. Plastic bumpers can pop out and hide more serious damage. The second thing I would do is write a letter to the chief constable. (I love complaining ) Im sure the police would take a pretty dim veiw of trying to intimidate someone into not swapping details....if he really was a real copper. If he isnt then its a charge of inpersonating a police officer. If he were a plumber would he have felt the need to say 'im a plumber' ......so why should he think that being a c*ntstable should get him special treatment.

Thanks. That makes much more sense!! :)

Yeaterday I collected a lockwasher from the dealers which i thought would replace the one that has broken from the bottom of my gearstick. Its only been like it for 4 years :lol: Anyway, the new bit was a right pig to get on and in the end i dropped it down into the gearchange assy. When i fished it out the remnants of the original clip were also stuck to the magnet and it wasnt the same :shock: I went back to the dealers and checked the screen and the part number deffinitely appears to be right. This item is a common failure, has the part been redisigned, and if so any tips for fitting?? Old one (pieced back together) to the right. new one to the left.

I have the same problem with my drivers side door. I have passat handles and catches fitted but it hasnt locked for about a yr, although it did at first. To be honest it doesnt bother me as the alarm/immobiliser works and there is a stop lock. Last time the pikeys managed the best part of a grands worth of damage just sticking screwdrivers through the doors and bending stuff :lol: Anyway...... last night my passenger side door stopped unlocking. It wont unlock with the internal handle either, so i presume the plastic clip that conects the catch to the hydraulic mechanism has broken or fallen off. I know i can open it by ripping off the door card, but i dont want to do this. Can someone pm me some instructions on how to break in?? From memory it should be possible with a flat piece of steel i think, based on where the catches are. but would be nice of someone confirmed. Cheers. Dan

Have you changed the oil? I had the same problem, always as I was easing off after a long run - coming up to a roundabout on a dual carriageway etc.. I had recently fitted a 68mm pulley and chip and noticed a big hike in the oil temp. I took the car in for a service and asked them to check the oil pressure and also fit my group buy mocal oil cooler - they couldnt find anything and it has never done this again. That was about 25,000 miles ago!! :lol: With all those mods and a standard oil cooler you will run very very hot - I'd immagine touching 140oC if booting it. This will make your oil very thin and probably knacker it!! :lol: I changed the black sender last month due to a leak - i think i checked the new number against old, i normally do. I'll see if i can find the old one.

You should check the oil level and see if you have actually lost any. I would have thought that if that much was coming out you would have had to top up by now. I had black stuff coming out of my exhaust that coated the entire rear of the car - turned out to be soot from overfueling caused by a dodgy lambda probe. That could also explain your MPG problem too.

There is a nut that clamps the bonnet release cable at the far end near the passenger side headlight. This is the only bit where the cable can work loose. It is fixed at the handle end. Unfortunately to check this you need to open the bonnet, which is a complete pain in the arsse- I found out the hard way :roll: There is a thread somewhere detailing a couple of techniques for opening the bonnet. :D

Just been out under the bonnet. The actual motor seems to sit pretty firmly, but I have got some play on the offending wiper through the plane of the windscreen. It moves probably 3mm. I have attached a picture to try and show what i mean (wrong side wiper in picture) Was this the movement you had Roger Blassberg ?

The problem that Roger is describing is exactly what my standard wipers do. This morning I had enough of it and i was about to ring the dealer to order some Lupo ones - hence clicking this thread to try and get the part numbers. I think I'll go ahead and try them anyway, but it really does seem like theres a depression in the screen that the wipers cant clear right in front of my head. The rest of the screen is perfect! :lol:

Neil. Did you get this sorted? I have developed the same leak. Was it DIY able or did you use a garage, if so how much work was it? Cheers, Dan

Im not sure if this is a wind up or not, it appears to be serious Danish speed reduction Not really worksafe. Sorry if its a repost.

Ive had a Corrado since i was 21, Im 26 now. Tesco and churchill have been the cheapest ive found. I was paying about 1300 quid a year when I was 21 though..... :x

106 miles a day, all in the C. 189,000 miles now. Just a matter of time til something breaks....again... :roll:

I used a Vag Black sensor. I was concerned that the drop I was seeing might just be the difference between the two sensors, but as the oil has dropped by a similar amount I think this confirms that the engine temp has dropped as a whole. The state of modification of the engine will also have an effect on the temperature. I have a 68mm pulley and a mocal oil cooler with the stock oil cooler/warmer removed. When I fitted the 68mm pulley (before I got the mocal) the water and oil temperatures rose by about 10oC due to all the extra hot air. The mocal seems to have brought things back into line - 86oC oil @ 90mph over a 40 mile motorway journey this morning :D