bruny
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Everything posted by bruny
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Check end float and liftrebuild 012.JPG[/attachment:pyzuusry]
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rebuild starts with new crank shells and thrust washersrebuild 010.JPG[/attachment:1h0hvd97]
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Effective though, apparently it produces a zigzag pattern on the bore which retains oilrebuild 004.JPG[/attachment:2be61cu6]
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Hone out the cylinder, looks like an instrument of torcher :shock:rebuild 003.JPG[/attachment:2u3g1ees]
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Will be good to see what the costs are in the end as this is a route I am likely to be following during the summer seeing as mine is on 153k now! Preventive maintenance and all that! Shall hopefully be able to stave off my want to stick a 3.2 in!! Costs are beginning to mount up, depends how far you want to go though, and if you are after performance or standard 'as the factory intended'. I think there won't be many standard Vr's left soon. But keeping them on the road comes at a price :(
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She is the most understanding woman I know :clap: Will be about tomorrow mate Thanks Chris :wave:
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New rings, big and little ends, crankshaft shells, cam followers, to name a few. Will list the lot when I've done. Costs as well :shock:003.JPG[/attachment:8zy6j53f]
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Cost of engine parts beginning to add up, but shouldn't need touching again001.JPG[/attachment:lifoqhtb]
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Block top coated but will need touching up after rebuild002.JPG[/attachment:3t9nn956]
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Bores just need honeing, one of tomorrows jobs008.JPG[/attachment:2wabbovy]
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AS mentioned earlier pistons are well within tolerance, a relief as replacements are £98 each005.JPG[/attachment:2bey8qf8]
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Still painting, polishing and cleaning while waiting for bits to arrive, it seems to me that the weakness of the pound against the euro is having a serious effect on parts prices, much more than when I checked a while ago :shock: Still I'm committed now Acid etch primer on the block before primer and then satin black007.JPG[/attachment:1qyghao2]
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Thats a relief, replacement pistons costing around the £100 mark I was fearing the worst. Having measured all the pistons the one showing the most evidence of witness marks is still reading well within tolerance at 81.993 :) Bores and crankshaft are very good , just a re-shelling and hone the bores, new rings, head skim and rebuild, few cosmetic improvements and the jobs a good'un :clap:
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I tried allsorts of things on the gearbox, from expensive spray on alloy cleaner which promised the earth, to bog standard oven cleaner, which frothed alot but didnt deliver. In the end I found a brillo pad was the best option, followed with wirewool and solvol autosol. Labour intensive and sore fingers but it gets the results. A brass wire brush on the end of a drill for the awkward bits saves the fingers a little!!
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Humble apologies , I stand corrected . 105,000 miles my toptensioner looked like this, I wouldnt want to run it much longer :shock:016.JPG[/attachment:2uu0x1kb]
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In between jobs have been cleaning the alloy up abit as wellEngine strip right down 007.JPG[/attachment:2knjuq4m]
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Some bright bits back from platers, its not chrome honest, still a bit shiney though018.JPG[/attachment:30cnhjo6] The crankshaft and big end measurements are fine so just needs reshelling. Bores good too, just needs honeing. On the piston front still waiting for accurate measurements, just hope they are within tolerance because replacements are around £100 each :shock: Update on measurements: they all read above the tolerance level, worse we could find was reading 81.994 [ pics to follow]
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Some goodies back from the powder coaters, should keep the rust at bay for a whileEngine strip right down 006.JPG[/attachment:1fs1iv7i]
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Can confirm it turns over but will not strike, sometimes striking but not running for long, its a bugger but cheap if you perservere. Consider it as a character building exercise, an experience you will never forget. Good luck :lol:
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There doesn't seem to be any marking on the bores on first impressions but when cleaned down tomorrow will look more closely. Th block hasn't been touched before as far as I can see, ie. no marks on case or conrods. Take your point on the V formation putting more thrust on one side of the pistons which would obviously show marking on the alloy before showing up on the hard faced bores, Need to take measurements to be sure :salute:
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Don't plan on selling the car at all, but only doing low mileage annually. 10 years x 3K = 30,000 But will certainly take measurements. Not totally sure that it can be bored though being a 2.9 :shrug:
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Memories come flooding back :lol: Laid upside down with the bent mini driver, sawn off at just the right length, turning 1/4 of a turn at a time whilst holding a torch between my teeth, blood rushing to my head :bad-words: I never realised I knew so many swear words :lol: Don't want to have to do it again :pukeright:
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Thanks for that, will check tomorrow :notworthy:
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Had same problem with mine , changed and checked allsorts before changing the switch, wiggling the key is defo switch problem, fiddly job but worth it , be prepared to sacrifice a small screw driver to get at it, need a gentle bend to get at the grub screw :bad-words:
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Do you know what the tolerance is? were your's worse , I seem to remember you had piston issues :(