bruny
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Everything posted by bruny
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Is there by any chance more then 4 screw holding the -->
bruny replied to Mawrick's topic in Engine Bay
Just checked mine, K reg Vr6, ABV code. 3 bolts holding pump need to be removed through the holes in the pulley mounted at roughly 6/ 9/and 12oclcock. Just two bolts on the easy sidePAS pump 002.JPG[/attachment:1mm4x9um] The union holds the feed pipe in place. Did they change the setup on the later models :shrug: -
Is there by any chance more then 4 screw holding the -->
bruny replied to Mawrick's topic in Engine Bay
On the early model there are five from memory, three on the pulley side and two on the easy side, should just prise out, but crack the union first, the bracket will be expensive from the dealer no doubt, try a breaker -
You are being tight, dont risk it, new gasket required. You dont want to take the top off again when it goes wrong!
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Can have them tested, cleaned and serviced, just had mine checked, £25 including new top seals at local Autotronics
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Thanks for all the replies and offers guys, much appreciated, but I have major engine/rebuild probs at the moment which are taking priority. I will get back to this as soon as I'm sorted :shock:
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Oh dear, still having problems, dont you just love the Corrado. If you still think its an air leak check the underside of the main air feed pipe from the air filter to the manifold, oil seems to collect at the junction of the smaller pipe from the camshaft cover which causes perishing and cracking. It may not be the problem but easy to check for illimination :shrug: I am assuming you have checked the obvious, plugs/ leads etc !
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:lol: Will lose points for exhaust, braided hoses, ht leads, battery terminals and shiney nuts :shock: got to give the judges something to do though :wave: 001.JPG[/attachment:j2rrrydo] 3M bag [got messy cos I puntured the bag to apply a little by hand] and the applicator nozzle which attaches to the bag Would like to think I've finished now [thats asking for trouble] just need to nurture and protect it :luvlove:
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Under the arches 8) 8)again 128.JPG[/attachment:1yngijv5]
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As promised, think I need to take it out and get it mucky, its a little bit bright 8) 8) again 124.JPG[/attachment:3innlymd]
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Hi Mawrick, thanks for the tips on the radio. On the rebuild side of things once you start its so hard not to carry on cos everything you tidy up makes something else stand out like a sore thumb, you end up doing everything, resulting in a nearly new car that you dare not take out if its raining and no funds for the Guinness on the rare occasion when you get to the pub. My advice would be just dont start the project, drink the Guinness instead :nuts:
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Thanks Mawrick, I'm more confused now though, I thought the gamma came after the beta. The American market was supplied with extras that we Europeans didnt get but if I could find a genuine fitment radio/cd player that would be a bonus :D
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Thanks Leonard, Sadly I am being drawn into the concours addicts group, so would like to keep it as the factory intended, just not sure what was about then, I would have thought there would be a couple of choices in 92, I'm sure Sony would be one of them. If thats a definate contender would you be able to post a picture or a model no. please??
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My radio in the Vr6 has died, will probably replace with the same unit a VW beta radio cassette. Its not the original fitment I think it came later, around '96. Just wondered if anybody knows what would have been fitted from the factory in 1992 :shrug:
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Thanks for the comments guys, have painted up today, will post photos tomorrow when its gone off enough to lift up on the jacking points again, looks seriously white now :shock: The 3m can be bought from most motor factors, I got it from Partic, £16 for a bag but it doesn't go very far, the catch is they want £60 for the applicator gun which attaches to the nozzle on the bag. I borrowed one from my local body shop but it seem to leave a different finish to the VW finish, I reckon you could apply by hand then blow an air line over it to get a similar finish. I'm having to work it out as I go [being a complete amatuer], I am going to try rounding the spikey finish off tomorrow then another top coat of alpine white 8) Drewie, see you there mate, I will be happy to be 1 point behind you again [if I dont get penalty points this year :( ] Toad, if you 've been spreading tillage in the winds we've had this week you will have stripes. Hope you found the team at Amazon helpful!DSCN1279.JPG[/attachment:25k36ofx] Not a brill piccy but this is the before shot, in black Hammerite, will need sunglasses for tomrrows shot :lol:
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3 M applied, comes in a bag with its own nozzle just brake the seal between 2packs , mix in the bag and apply. so simple even a fool could do it, infact he just has done :shock:underseal 005.JPG[/attachment:1s5pl8ly]
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Thanks Kip, hope the holiday went well, 100 miles a day on a push bike, blimey :notworthy: Hope to make Elsacar this year if it dosen't snow :D Latest is, wheels off again, on the lift again, to tidy up the underseal patches damaged over the years. Back to bare metal, 3M [2pack] applied ready for a coat of paint!underseal 003.JPG[/attachment:3f6h90t6] masked up and primed with stone chip
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Yep, core plugs fitted, waiting for some original VW fasteners for pipework then can rebuild, it needs to be done now its dragging on too long and costing too much. Thanks for the help on ebay mate :clap:
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Etka part no. 021 133 429A @ £22.55. Be more than that now I expect with the weak pound :wave:
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You need acid etch primer once its cleaned up, then satin black , both from spray cans, keep the block warm while painting it. If you fancy heat proof matt black dont think you need the primer, they might expand at differant rates and crack, but matt black on its own will not give a depth of colour. Have tried to load pictures but cant hack it but if you check my members gallery some evidence on there, hope this helps!
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Its the idle pot damper valve Tom, it cracks which allows excess air in to the mix. It will be down on power and running weak. I think its only £20 ish from memory. I didnt have spluttering etc, just lack of power, so it may not be the only problem you've got :shrug:
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Good tip, will keep an eye on that if it happens again :D
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Better than looking at porn, brill, if I did it again I'd have more sandblasting done, keep up the good work :notworthy: :notworthy:
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The one next to the oil pump drive is the same on the rear of the engine, don't know which the small one is though that you are refering to :shrug: We also replaced the plug which has a feed to the oil cooler on the front of the engine but have not had a problem with this dealer supplied part. None of them were badly corroded and would have lasted many more years so I shouldn't worry too much about them, having said that they are a doddle to remove/replace :D
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I couldn't find a part no. on etka, the ones supplied by the dealers were 36 mm which were too loose,think they must be for the 24v engine. We ordered 37mm from a motor factor and dont forget the sealant, was reasuringly tight, but haven't run up to temperature yet PS. I'm talking about the two on the front of the motor for the water waytoday 005.JPG[/attachment:3v9ch5av]
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Thanks Pete, matrix must be the worst job on the corrado, there must be an easier way. Have done nearly everything now, just hoping for trouble free enjoyment from now on :D Hope yours is coming together finally :shrug: When we finally meet must compare costs but I'm not racing you, think you have a few more horses under the bonnet than me :salute:
