sciroccotune

You should be fine the corrado is all fixed geometry (well mine is), so as long as you dont go to low you dont have to get the adjustable camber bolts. I agree with 'Blow me' they look like a good price

ok here is my bay.. Not much but getting there. So far i have started to clean it, polished the dohc and done a few bits and bobs..

oh the rear strut bottom bolt should be 70 Nm

Tools : Slotted nut (http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=28525) 22mm spanner and smaller spanners 13-18mm (I think you wil need 17mm) I find one of these works well for the top nut – (http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=17212) Socket set Torque wrench Alan keys (8mm I think) Spring compressors. New top mounts and bumpstops. Basically this is how I would do it, if anyone has any other info please add or correct me… Front: Using the oxygen sensor socket and a 8mm alan key undo the top nut from the engine bay. The springs will be kept compressed by the slotted nut. You will now need to remove the 2 bolts that hold the bottom of the strut to the wheel assembly. Using the socket set and a spanner undo the bolts, I have used them again but you may want to get new ones. At this point remove the abs sensor wire and rubber hose from the strut. The strut should be removable. You will need to compress the springs at this point. Now using the slotted nut tool undo the slotted nut and remove the top mount and related rubbers etc. REMEMBER the order of washers/nuts/spring plates for re-assembly. Fit new spring/ damper insert and re assemble the with new bump stop / top mount. You will have to torque the nuts up to: 19mm nuts = 80 Nm 18mm nuts = 95 Nm slotted nut = 40 Nm top nut = 60 Nm (I think) To be honest I just do em all up nice and tight.. Rears: You will not need to compress the rear springs. Top mounts are generally ok but may as well replace them as the struts are off. replace the bump stops. The rears are easy to do. You only need to undo the top nut (best to remove the rear parcel shelf supports to make room. Unbolt the bottom nut but support the rear beam. Remove the strut and replace with new spring/strut and redo as reverse of removal. The most important thing is to remember the order you remove things. Hope this guide helps give you an idea of how easy it can be.

do it your self! easy (ish) just need the right tools and a weekend. Ill post a list in the morning. £700 is far to much, you could be getting coilovers for that price and have change (well a bit). Have you looked at the likes of eurocarparts or GFS as they have some good lowering kits.

@billinjahg60 - lol so it does :twisted: Well thansk for all the positive comments guys and galls... I have been messing with the engine bay a bit, nothing major but will post some pics shortly...

OK FOUND IT!!!! All seems to be working now!! If anyone wants to know.. The wires are not the same colour coding and the plug is red not black lol

cant find it!!!! are the wires the same colour? is the plug black? thanks for help so far flusted

so many wires !!! :drinking:

im messing with the C right now and trying to get the mfa to work. I have found the socket /wire that comes from the stalks..BUT where do they plug in?? cheers

well thats good to know, that the rears dont often fail. The problem is that there is no rados in the scrappers round here..

Whilst cleaning my abs sensors today i managed to pull one of the rears apart! so i need a new one as i had to bash it out (killed it good :twisted: ) I have managed to clean the other sensors by removing the discs, what a faf! I also found that one of my rear stub axels is worn and will need replacing. Anyway first things first, i need a new rear sensor but VW want £119 and Eurocarparts want £65!!! There must be a cheaper place for them or maybe some on has one :wink: Help!! :lol:

Hello chaps, I have an eyebrow spoiler and I offered it up last night and think it may look nice and smooth. The problem I noticed was that fitting it would be difficult as i can not screw it down over the lights! Have you guys just screwed it in the middle and used adhesive pads over the lights? How have you done it?

got it! Just have to fix the horn now lol! thanks!

I have no PM :cry: But thanks for the help so far! COuld you maybe resend :D

very nice mate... shiny! Like the blu and the new rear lights go together very well!

Well here are a few new ones I took tonight, what ya think: Looks like a toy, and thats just what it is :twisted: Not sure if i want a chin spoiler MMMM toyos Turns out that rados cant play hide 'n' seek for toffee!

I hope not! :shock:

Ohdear! well havent had any problems so far. but its fixed now so all should be well!! :D

Cool Im one step closer to understanding the C:D So what would have happened if the fuse was dead?

Thats the thing!!

Sorry for another post so soon, I’m just eager to sort out the C... My horn does not work, The previous steering wheel had a broken horn pad and my guess it the previous owner was to 'silly' to see this and disconnect3ed the horn. When I push the horn on my new wheel i hear the relay click so it must be a wire from there. My question is what are the wire colour codes for the horn and which relay number is it (if it even has a relay) MOT time is coming so I’m hoping to have it all sorted out for august. Its a 2l 16v if it makes any difference. Cheers

That was quick! Yeah sorry on the lack of details front :oops: Its a 2l 16v. Kreg. The thing I am talking about is mounted to the suspension tower infront of the expansion tank.

What does the black box near the coolant expansion tank do? I’m guessing it’s a vag alarm or something; It has vw part numbers on it which I can get later and the alarm siren sits just in front of it. Next question is what does the fuse in it do? It was broken so I replaced it but nothing ‘new’ works, or doesn’t :lol:

@ CaiosG60 PWR - the light does indeed go off with the ignition, and comes on at 15mph so im hoping its the sensor. Trouble is I cant get the sensors out as they are stuck! will have to remove the disc and do it that way lol. Thanks again for all the comments, the car is 101 393 miles young and it does have a few marks but you have to be close to se em - a blind man on a gsxr 1000 wouldn't even see em A few people have said that they didn’t like the wheels, but then again a few people today said they loved the wheels and that they really suited the car. Think I will be sticking with them for a while, then maybe something split rim ?? What do you all think of colour coded handles – worth it?