Dutch24V

This is a quote from above mentioned company:

"6-speed 4WD R32 gearbox transversion for VR6 2WD

We now sell a complete R32 gearbox transversion, from 4 wheel drive to front wheel drive, for less then a Quaiffe 6speed transversion.

The Quaiffe 6-speed is much weaker then our transversion. Also the older 02A VR6 transm. is nothing compared to the indestructable 02M transmission.

This is THE setup for your turbo high torque car.

Includes:

Drive axles

02M Gearbox

drive flanges

engine mounts

4WD->2WD conversion kit for the gearbox

Shifting mechanisme and kabels."

Thoughts anyone - Jay, Phat, Coxy??

It's the same company that makes those lovelly VR6 manifolds and charge coolers for the Vortech I posted last week btw.

Dutch

I have been speaking to a couple of garages over here and they seem to think the 24v downpipe will fit the Corrado if it's mounted on MKIV engine mounts. I think Coxylaaaaaad has also mounted his on MKIV mounts and also uses the standard 24v DP.

Is this right or am I misunderstanding something? If so do the MKIV mounts fit the C without any modifications? If so could I then still use the VR cooling pipes etc. if I were to mount it this way?

Also, I've found a company that sells the 02M gearbox with a kit to convert it to fwd and to fit the Corrado for 1300 Euro's. It includes:

drive axles

drive flanges

modified engine mounts

4WD->2WD conversion kit for the gearbox

Shift mechanism with cabels.

02M Gearbox

They also sell just the conversion kit without the gearbox for 350 euro's.

So, if I'm understanding it all correctly, I can mount the 24v on MKIV mounts and fit the 02M gearbox with the above mentioned kit and then use the standard 24v DP??

I'm guessing it's not that easy though and it would be easier using the VR mounts and getting a DP made?

Isn't the 02M gearbox 6 speed though??

Dutch

http://www.topgear.com/CarServlet?event ... error.html

 

Reckon there is a misprint on the valves though :lol:

Website is an error page?

MAF is a common cause for random stalling and the car can still drive with almost full power and VAG-COM won't flag it.

...it's also the most expensive bit to replace when troublshooting stalling issues so most don't bother trying it until there's no other option left.

Dutch

8)

Failing all that try a basic settings to reset the TPS.

Failing that (like me), get yourself a new MAF. That eventually solved my stalling once and for all.

Dutch

No, that is the crank case breather heating element that is for cold climate VR's and is obsolete on our warm climate models.

The ISV sits behind the Intake manifold, just to the right of the TB. It has 2 pipes connecting to it and one goes to the rectangular black plastic mufler thing. Hope that makes sense?

Sounds like you may need a new TB damper if yours is noticably weak.

Dutch

I thought so too, on the intake valves at least.

I also thought the earlier 24v's didn't have vvt though?

Dutch

Coxylaaaaaad, does the engine I'm getting have vvt? What year and angine code is it btw?

Dutch

Sounds good and I'm defo. keeping the 2 CATS then.

Dutch

So does each CAT and it's set of 2 lambda probes work on each bank of cylinders independently, or does the DP end in one section which then splits into 2 before tha 2 CATS? :?

Dutch

I'm just sticking the 02A box back on too so should be OK there.

Dutch

Stan, it may flow better but the ECU needs all 4 O2 sensor readings for the fuelling, and like Jay says if you don't fit twin CATS the readings will be off.

I'm defo going the twin CAT route and if required there is an exhaust specialist over here that I will get to build the complete system. I can even choose the note I want it too produce too !!

I was hoping to get a rough system together first though so I can at least drive the car to them so they can build it to fit perfectly (it's the other side of the country), hence the reason why I was asking about getting a downpipe made.

Well, If you go twin CAT and he makes the downpipe for that option and he's willing can you ask him to make 2 then?

Cheers,

Dutch

OK, thanks mate.

OK, thanks Jay.

So the downpipe ends with 2 sections then, or is their a joiner between it and the cats?

Stan, if you could get your guy to get 2 of these downpipes made maybe they'll be a bit cheaper too?

Do you know who's making your's btw?

Dutch

So your adding in another Cat then Stan?

Can you ask the person who makes the downpipe for you to make 2 of them please?

So between the downpipe and the VR rear section is basically mkiv stuff from VAG then?

Cheers,

Dutch

Stan, what are you doing about the exhaust?

Are you getting a custom made downpipe and keeping the rest VR?

What about the lambda sensors - how many are needed? I thought 4?

Dutch

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... sc&start=0

Dutch

I've seen just over 235 on a closed road in Belgium.

....kp/h though unfortunately!!

I could let go of the wheel too and she still stayed in a straight line with no wheel vibration what-so-ever. Amasing beasts...

Dutch

I'd try the temp. senders first before buying an ISV, much cheaper and as your problem goes when she's warm I don't it is your ISV.

Dutch

Yes, me too. After the tussle for the 24v and all I'm really sorry to hear this.

Maybe coxy can still help though as he says, esp. if the ins. pays out?

I hope it works out for you.

Dutch

ETKA - VAG's electronic parts catalog.

The main fan controller switches on speeds 1 and 2 based on what the yellow temp sender tells it AFAIK. The black one is only for speed 3 (emergency) and air-co.

First speed comes on at +/- 83 degrees I think. It may come on before that though if the sensor is dead.

Dutch

LOL :D

bgvr, no worries :)

Or RW1 (when he's not locked in my cupboard for ease of use ).

...Trigger, that sounds really dodgy mate :wink:

Dutch

...oh, and check for any air leaks in the inlet tubing and any vacuum pipes.

If the problem goes when she's warm though I doubt it's an air leak.

Dutch