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Dutch24V

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Posts posted by Dutch24V

  3. Posted

    When mine sheered too I just hammered a slightly larger bit in to remove, then bought some new ones.

     

    They are made of aluminium iirc correctly so are very easy to sheer if not using the right type and size of tool bit.

     

    Dutch

     

    ..also stick some copper grease on them when you refit as they seize very easily

  4. Posted

    You will need very long bar to get the required force to shift them or a pnuematic tool as I found out yesterday too.

     

    Luckily my VAG mechanic mate poped by with the required otherwise there's no way I would've been able to shift that nut!

     

    Dutch

  6. Posted

    Thanks for the tip mate.

     

    There is no room to screw the new, unbroken, drop-link in though, so I'm going to have to drop the sub frame arm and pop the drive shaft out I reckon. Do you know if I can infact simply push the drive shaft out when I remove the large centre nut on the hub or is there more to in than that?

     

    Dutch

  7. Posted

    tug, I stand corrected and you were spot on with the ARB drop link.

     

    It's sheered off and the ARB was rubbing on the outer most edge of the rubber boot. Luckily the rubber is still in tact and the CV itself looks fine. The top mount and bearing are OK too, just the top plate bolt was loose.

     

    I've just got back from a 20 minute walk to my local VW dealers and unbelievably they had 2 in stock :) ...38 euro each though for those little bits of metal :shock:

     

    Will try and reassemble it all shortly.

     

    Dutch

  8. Posted

    Thanks tug. I have checked around the CV joint area and all looks good though.

     

    I think I could just smell impending doom from my engine as the amount of smoke she was producing this morning was not normal :oops: It cleared up after 30 seconds or so though :)

     

    The garage reckons it the top mount bearing or what ever, so I'm going to remove the suspension now and pop it to VAG. They will press the new bearing on properly for me, which is nice of them!

     

    Will report back if it's the solution.

     

    Thanks again...

    Dutch

  9. Posted

    When I jack the car up so the front wheels are off the ground I can grap either wheel and move it up about 1cm. The whole suspention and shock lift up with the wheel and the top bit in the engine bay lifts up too. When the car is standing on the front wheels there is a 1cm gap between the top of the supsention and the car body. Also the top part of the suspention on the LH side moves freely and has a good 3mm of play side to side. I presume this is not good?

     

    Is this pointing to dead top mounts or shocks? Going to pop to a friendly garage to see if they can tell me for sure as I need her back on the road a.s.a.p.

     

    Dutch

  10. Posted

    Thanks guys. I'll check around again in the morning now when it's light. Another un-paid day off due to the C by the looks of it :(

     

    The steering didn't seem to get heavier when cornering btw and I've tried reversing/accelerating whilst stationary with the brake on and the engine doesn't move more than usual.

     

    The top mount idea sounds a good one as it defo. felt spring related somehow. If I bounce the car though nothing? Does the spring turn then? It did feel like that sort of a creaking tension and then a deep clunking and it does seem to be corner load dependent, not speed. Also when going over speed bumps, just as she makes contact with the bump, it sometimes clatters abit and something sounds loose for a split second.

     

    How would I spot a dead top mount then and if it happens when turning to the left more would that point to the left or right one?

     

    Dutch

  11. Posted

    Just got back from a spin and yep, that's what it sounds like Kev.

     

    It sort of sounded/felt like a large spring creaking type noise/feeling and I could feel it through the floor quite severely. It's seems louder when turning to the left, but the sound is more from the middle right of the car and I can feel it through my feet on the drivers side (LHD)??

     

    Would the burning smell come from a dead cv-joint?

     

    Dutch

  12. Posted

    No idea what has broken at the moment, but I hear/feel a deep clunking/metal on metal type noise when turning sharply at any speed. It seems to be coming from the front right wheel area. I have looked and can't see anything strange and when I rock the car or push on the wheels when stationary it doesn't do it.

     

    Strange thing is this morning on the way to work on the motorway there was a strong, nasty burning smell. It was so strong infact I almost stopped as I thought something was on fire, but after a while the smell faded so I caried on. My dipstick rubber seal has perished and *some* oil seeps out onto hot metal so I just put it down to that. Reflecting on that now though it definately wasn't oil burning as I know that smell pretty well by now :oops:

     

    I'm thinking maybe something related to the drivetrain has perished, but no idea what? I haven't a clue whan it comes to suspention / driveshaft bits so was wondering if anyone has any ideas? CV-joint maybe? :?

     

    I'm just going for a quick spin to see if I can figure out some more. ...hopefully a wheel wont fall off or worse.

     

    Dutch

  14. Posted

    I always let her idle for a couple of minutes before driving too.

     

    If you heard my engine when she's started after a good nights sleep you'll understand why!!

     

    After a minute or so she's totally smooth and silent again though and ready to join the motorway 8)

     

     

    Dutch

  20. Posted

    Engine code for the latter 24v with vvt is BDE (european market), not sure what the code is for the american one.

     

    AQP is the earlier 24v without vvt for the yank market and AUE the same but for the europen market, AFAIK

     

    Dutch

     

    edit: Mine, Stans and I think Jays are BDE 2.8 24v's and the other are R32 lumps

  24. Posted

    ...and as meneer Cox explained to me you simply tape the key to the clock backing plate and stick it up behind the C clocks somewhere and use your original ignition barrel and key, or something like that.

     

    There are also companies that can remove the immobiliser code from the ECU so you wouldn't need the clocks or key. I know of one over here that does that for 100 euro.

     

    Dutch

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