daytona600

I was kind of thinking the same re the mods. When looking for my new car I was only looking for an untouched example. I guess it's either drop the price, put it back to standard or wait.

Anyone that is in the 2nd or 3rd (overtaking) lanes on a dual carriageway or motorway whilst either, not overtaking or not allowing for traffic joining from a slip road, deserves to have a fine and points imo. No excuses. It's just lazy, dangerous and annoying. Making motorway driving part of the test is a non-starter unfortunately. I live in East Anglia. No motorways in Suffolk or Norfolk.

I honestly thought that when I put my VR6 up for sale that it would sell fairly quickly. It's been on pistonheads for 6 weeks and on here for nearly as long. All I have had is a couple of "tire kicking" emails. I think I have the price right (dropped from 3540 to 2995), it's low miles for the year (124k on a 93 plate). Maybe there just aren't enough buyers for this type of car? Am I asking too much? I would be interested to hear from other members on their selling experience. Do I sit tight? Try Auto Trader or just keep it for a few more years? I could do with the cash but I won't give it away. Thoughts please gents ;-)

VR6 | Flash Red | Suffolk Price: £3150 Description: I have owned this car for the past 8 years but now it is time to sell her due to my family getting bigger. The car has been well looked after, never raced or thrashed and has a very comprehensive service history. It is very clean inside and out and in good condition for the year. Low mileage for the year 121,425 (6k per year) MOT Expires 21/11/2013 The car has had some tasteful improvements / modifications over the years as listed below. Professionally Fitted Full Leather Interior. Magnex Back Box. AP Coilovers 17 Inch Golf Mk 5 Wheels OEM Oil Pressure & Volt Meter Gauge (centre consol) 1 Piece Windscreen Scuttle Aero Wiper Blades Angel Eye Headlights My VR6 is a real head turner and always a talking point with other enthusiasts. My husband is handling the sale and will be happy to answer any questions.

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have had the car almost 8 years now. The rad was changed about 7 years ago other than that no cooling changes. There is water circulation coming into the tank so I think I will start with the thermostat 1st. Cheers

Thanks very much. Is there an easy way for me to check if the water pump is working?

Hi all. I need some advice please. I have a 93 VR6. Last weekend after a 15 mile run to Bury St Edmunds I noticed my fans where on full blast as I parked. The radiator was cold but the temp gauge was reading higher than usual. An hour later I checked the water level before going home & it was fine. During the journey the water level light came on & before I could pull off the A14 the car filled with steam. I stopped immediately. Got recovered by police & RAC. The garage said my heater matrix had gone. A soaking wet carpet confirmed it to me. A new matrix was fitted but the mechanic said the fans were only coming on after the car was switched off. He suspected an air lock and told me to run it with the cap off for a minute after I got home. I did this and then took it out for a drive. A couple of miles up the road it started to overheat again. I pulled over and noticed a crack in the side of the expansion tank as steam was coming out under pressure. Limped home pretty ****ed off. The heating works in the car, all the hoses seem to be getting hot but the radiator is cold. I am wondering if a blockage in the rad has caused the pressure to get so high as to 1st blow the heater matrix & now thats fixed, the expansion tank. Could this be right or could it have been the expansion tank all along or something else? I hope someone can help. Cheers.

Just a quick update. Car still running sweet with not a single stall. Having read another thread I now suspect running the output test on VAGCOM probably fixed the problem rather than simply cleaning the throttle body. Does anyone else think this more likely?

Made my own headlight loom at the weekend after original one bit the dust. Was surprised how easy it was to do thanks to the guy in Maplin helping me out. Fixed my VR6 stalling problem this evening, well chuffed.

Ok I don't want to speak too soon but I think I have cured the stalling problem. Here is the exact steps that I took. I hope it may help someone in the future. Cleared ECU faults. Removed air filter and cleaned with brush (will replace soon). Removed MAF hot wire type and sprayed it with a little Servisol Super 10 Switch Cleaning Lubricant. Cleaned the throttle body with plenty of carb cleaner & kitchen roll. Opening throttle to get right inside (It had loads of crud inside). Checked all pipes for leaks. Checked all related cables. Put it all back together. Started car. After several seconds it spluttered, backfired and then loads of acrid black smoke started to come from under the bonnet. I guess this was the carb cleaner? At first I thought I may have fried the MAF. Anyway it settled down so I did as Kev suggested and took it for a good thrash, red lined every gear except 5th as I can't see far enough ahead to do 130+ ;-) Then tested dropping the clutch. No more stalling and it's running smoother than ever. Happy days! (until the next problem) Kev, the car is a 93 with a 5 pin MAF. I have no idea what is involved in upgrading to OBD2 but it sounds expensive? Can you point me in the right direction for more info? You may remember coming to meet me at Tesco Copdock to plug in your VAG-COM a few years back. You found some sensor faults for which I am eternally grateful. Cheers

Yes I know that road, will try to avoid till I can (hopefully) get this fixed. Just plugged in my laptop and got the following error codes. 537 - Oxygen sensor regulation control limit not reached INTERMITTENT 533 - Idle regulation adaption limit not reached INTERMITTENT

Thanks All. I am going to look at cleaning the MAF tonight Kev. I guess I was just getting frustrated last night. Jamie hit the nail on the head. If a problem has been fixed it would be more than helpful if the OP came back to say so. I hereby promise to report back if I can stop the stalling problem.

H Dukest, To be honest after reading through lots of threads I noticed conflicting solutions. Just thought that as this seems to be a common & potentially dangerous problem that somebody with more knowledge than me could help with. An a-z list of what to check in order of likely cause would be a start. It would also put an end to dozens of threads on the same subject. Guilty of starting another one but ;-)

My VR has developed the dreaded stalling problem when dropping the clutch. Before any mods jump on me to search the forum may I say that I have done nothing but for several evenings. The trouble is that nobody seems to have cracked this yet. The fault is not only annoying but dangerous (2 near accidents already) There must be at least one person that has had this common problem which has found a solution? If no common solution can be found then I think an ordered check list would be most helpful. A sticky topic would be most welcome. As to my problem. Like I said, she stalls when I drop the clutch any time after approx 5 minutes driving. Idle is smooth (no hunting) at about 650 rpm. I have checked and cleaned my ISV. It was not dirty and operated correctly. BTW, my local VW dealer parts bloke said that he has never sold one as they just don't fail. This is at odds to many comments on the forum (I was quoted £265 !) If anyone near me Stowmarket / Ipswich has VAGCOM and is willing to help please let me know. Cheers!

I have taken the ICV off to clean but it looks like a sealed unit. How do I strip it down? Any ideas

How strange. Reading this. I had a cheap induction kit on my VR for 3 years or more and only last week put the original box back for something to do. The improvement in smoothness and power was immediate. It did not sound as nice but I will be keeping the OEM.

Thanks, will look at that. I need a £100 repair like I need an asshole on my forehead.

My VR6 has developed a nasty habit. I need some help to identity the problem. If I have to decelerate quickly at low speed (under 30 mph) to stop, ie letting an old lady cross the road. The car cuts out and stalls. As soon as I put the clutch down and take my foot of the pedal the revs drop so low the engine cuts. A couple of times this has happened at a junction, I lose power steering and braking as a result. For obvious reasons I need to get this fixed. It's intermittent but starting to grate my nerves. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, 4K hmm. I love my rado but my wife would go mental if I spent that much...

98 pages! Just a simple question. I need a ball park figure on cost to have a turbo on my VR by a professional. Thanks Kev.

Thanks, I think Barnards quoted me around £800 for the panel. That's a bit rich for me. Thanks very much! I have sent you a PM

Hi all The rear panel (between tail gate & bumper) of my corrado has started to rot through from the inside as water has got in behind the corrado badge. I am trying to find a new replacement panel but I have drawn a blank. Can anyone suggest where I can try. Does anyone sell any corado body panels? Thanks

Sorry VR6, I did look but could not find. Anyway, my local garage sorted it. The idle speed control valve was shot. I must be half way to a brand new VR6 by now ;-)

Thanks. I did suspect a fuel problem but the rev fluctuations seem too regular to be a blockage if you know what I mean. Its like a metronome. As though I am rapidly tapping the accelerator, on, off, on, off, etc. The fuel pump relay may be suspect as I have had an intermittent starting problem in the recent past.

Can anyone identify the likely cause please ... Came back from a 2 week holiday. Started the VR6 and the engine idle speed was very lumpy till warmed up. A few days later (today) whilst driving at low speed it started to rev erratically between 1250 - 1750 rpm. It now does this on idle. Driving the car over 3000 rpm over 40mph is fine but as soon as I try to drive below 40mph it does the above. The car is doing this either from cold or at normal operating temp. Please point me in the right direction so that the garage does not baffle me with BS when I take it in.