keithmac

Some knock sensors come with just a plug on the body and others come complete with lead (1 piece). Depends what modle you order it for.

Don`t plan to run in the red constantly but hopefully I`ll be doing a few trackdays next year, maybe my best option is to run the 78 for track and 68 for normal driving.. I actually bought a 70mm off German ebay last year but when it eventually turned up it looked like the bloke had removed it with a hammer..

I found out after I bought a freshly rebuilt charger for £750 tinking I got a bargain. I actually expected it to fail and kept an ear out, probably what saved mine from grenading..

Sorry VR6, posted it in the wrong forum :oops:

Just spreading the word about their shoddy rebuilding is good enough for me, plus you`d probably need an "expert" opinion and not many companies like to bad-mouth another for many reasons. There must be at leat 5 people on here who`ve had low milage charger problems, how many more..

Any contact details or do you have to go through VAG?

Anyone know where I can get a 70mm pulley in the UK?, think a 68 may be on the small side for my setup/ revs? Cheers :D.

Yeh sounds the best bet, some people use a small jet just before the ic to combat heatsoak but for a normal system after the ic is best.

I think mine had the cheapest possible sh1t in it to be honest, that`s if they even bothered to change the oil seals.. took some pics, I`ll have to dig them out and have a look. Running a 40k charger on original sealed timing shaft bearings is asking for trouble, 15 year old grease won`t lubricate very well, if there`s any left in them. Even if you just replace the sealed bearings you`ll give it half a chance. (if they`re the correct rating of course..)

Chris M, it looks too close to the co-pot tbh you`ll probablu be reading the water temp at the co-pot rather than actual air temp, I`d say you`ll need at least a foot of pipe run between the injection point and the IAT sensor, the longer the better. Will post a pic of mine up at the weekend if I get chance.

They beefed up the matrixes so you don`t need the bypass valve. My `89 Golf hasn`t had the bypass done and it`s been fine (100k), also the bypass valves are prone to blocking up which lowers the cabin temp.

Another vote for G-Werks here, sent my Jabba re-built charger to them after it started making some awful noises, I had a look inside and the Apex strips were again far too short and it was leaking oil badly..

It`s not worth the risk, for a £20 - £30 part. If it seizes quicky and snaps the belt it`ll take the engine out.

Looks like you need 13 and 14 if they`re both knacked on your car, plus the O ring as well.

I paid £30 for a vag tensioner (SFK?), had a pattern (INA) one go wrong after very little milage, belt wasn`t overtightened.. It`s not bad to do but quite a few people get them a tooth out which makes the car flat to drive (suppose it depends which way you go).

Post a pic up of your engine and we`ll make a decission for you :wink: Have a good look round on the forum at http://www.aquamist.co.uk, a mine of info in there!

CO pot also houses the IAT sensor, it can stand being covered in water quite happily from my experiences! Wouldn`t think covering the MAF would be a good idea as you say. My thinking is it has to be before the CO-pot (so the ECU sees the denser air) and has to have enough distance to cool the charge. My nozzles tapped into the RSR outlet, although the intake run is very short. Run it for 6months like this and it`s been fine. If you use the Aquamist pump be careful what % alky you mix in, or buy a seal kit for the pump that lets you run high alky content. I`m toying with the idea of buying a DDS3 readout/controller, monitors for faults and can dump/limit boost in the event of a failure. N/a cars can benifit by being able to up compression or timing advance, you can also run leaner mixtures to get the best mixture for maximum torque, which is normally not possible due to knock. My valver always used to respond better on cold damp mornings due to denser air.

Had the head off, fitted ARP head studs, stacked G60 gaskets, pegged cam vernier pulley and digi1. I went for the G60 altough having paid top dollar for a recent Jabba overhaul and then having it making nasty noises with only 3k on it I wish I`d gone for the twin screw! G-Werks have rebuilt the G and it`s going great now, plenty of torque! Had a few issues with digi1 so went over to Megasquirt and I haven`t looked back. Went for the alt under chargher option, a bit of work to get it fitted but worth it (you can`t fit the alt in the original Limited position because of the brack m/c).

I converted a digi2 25 pin plugged loom for digi1 with no real hastles SNS tuning have a `how to` guide I think. My digi2 loom was a 90 spec.

I run Aquamist instead of an IC on my car, it has the boost return deleted, as you say the G60`s are fragile enough without water!

I`ve recently fitted their 16vG60 kit (alternator under charger option) to my mk2 Golf, all the bits were very well machined and finished and John Betz is a very helpful bloke! ?They even supply the Digi1 chip, although my car didn`t really get on with it, think it was an issue with the kents.

The low impedance injectors will probably be in the 4 ohms range, ideally you need to be 14 to 16 ohm per injector. Some people use in series resistors, you`ll need to use quite heavy duty ones and check there temp after a good run. edit, highs and lows..

When my mk2 golf was on k-jet I fitted a set of merc injectors to it, the top hats had an `o`ring groove in them, I pressed them on to the new injectors to retain this `o`ring.

I bought a genuine one £18ish I think?

Cheers, good to know there`s still people who take pride in rebuilding the G`s, bet you get a fair few of Jabba`s ex custmers.. Got mine on the 78mm pulley and it goes great!