keithmac

I run Denso Iridiums, very happy with them.

Just make sure you don`t wreck the WI pump, they do a viton seal kit for it of you`re unsure. I`m going over to (near) direct port injection, always use plain de-min water, going to try and advance the timing/ lean the mixture to gain power with the water as knock-prevention, using Spark and fuel map 2 if the WI fails it defaults to the safe maps just in case..

Us golf owners need to stick together 8)

It`d have to go as a pair really.

I always rotate clockwise to tension, if you do it the other way round the belt will try to push the lock nut undone which isn`t good.

I`ve got both bits in the shed..

I use the 90 degree rule, the belt does flap slightly but any tighter and you`ve loading up the tensioner bearing which isn`t good! From my experience the proper tension does seem to be too slack, it isn`t. I bought a brand new VAG tensioer and got the same results.

Best bet`s to post a pic of the cam so we can have a look.

I took the front off and pulled the motor forward on the hoist, didn`t fanck dropping the subframe (captive nuts are prone to shearing and the steering rack`s bolted to it).

With a dyno you can hit diffferent loads at diferent rpm`s very easily which makes it a lot better for mapping. On the other side of the coin live mapping can show up areas that may not have been touched on the rollers (acceleration enrichment effects etc). Would have tought most MS`s have been live mapped with reasonble results.

You can run a different belt while the chargers off so you can still use the car, maybe a better option if you need to wait a while to have it fixed?

I`d be double checking every connector behind the fuesbox first, would have though it would be quited difficult to "spike" the ecu badly enought to kill it.

Some people have had success with filling the inside of the connector with dielectric grease, from what I`ve read the MAF could fail at any time, 60k to 80k seems most common?

I run a Magnex 4 branch - system on mine and it works a treat! Just remeber to weld a couple of o2 bungs in it and heatwrap the manifold before you fit it..

Mine runs arp headstuds, no complaints here (plus you can re-use them!).

Best thing I did to the Golf was ditch the 17`s and go back to 15`s, handles better and accellerates better, also the ride was improved no end (bloody 205/40/17`s!).

Very nice setup you`ve built there, bet it`s a beast to drive!

It`s better to be too rich than too lean, to a point. I`ve gone for 12:1 to be safe. You can get the logs on the screen and press PrntScrn, this copies them onto the clipbopard and you can paste them into a paint porgram and save as .jpg`s then post them up. Running real rich can cause bore wash, but i ting you`d have to be way below 10:1 to cause that?

Aquamist is the best kit out there in my opinion, well worth the money!

Having a good read up about detonation yesterday, I`ve decided the best bet while tuning is to rig the knock-sensor though an amp (or laptop soundcard) to some headphones so I can here exactly what`s going on in the engine and listen for cylinder ping. Has anyone else tried this and what results did you get? Aparently it`s a common thing to do while tuning engines in a dyno cell? The engine`s that noisey that it could be pinging it`s head off for all I know and I wouldn`t hear it currently.. Also what sort of advance are people running on the 16v`s at 15psi? Cheers :D

Well I had a great day! Think the car used 12 liters of water (water injection) during the day. Ran the 65 pulley and restricted myself to 6k revs MOST of the time and it behaved faultlessly! Kept a beady eye on the oil temp and it never exceeded 110c which was the same as before without the charger. I only used the road tyre`s (F1`s) and after the 3rd lap of each session they started going off, wish I`d taken the slicks.. Definitely need a baffled sump, next on the to-do list after the intercooler. I was convinced it was going to blow up, so driving it home in 1 piece was a bonus!

Golf folks have been hitting 180 to 200 bhp on sock cast manifolds, I found better mid range pickup but would estimate only 5bhp top end with the 4 branch?

Personally I`d put a fan switch on it and a stat if you can get in there, run the car hot and check the rad is getting warm especially around the fan switch area. Stuck in traffic with no fan is definitely going to boil the coolant, if the temp goes high while driving (air flowing over radiator) then that`s an indicator of a failed head gasket..

Another vote for Steath! I`ve got the 16v ecu, modded WUR with matched metering head kicking around..

It sould be a race pump, the failure prone jobbies all had red anodised heastsinks iirc, very easy to strip the pump, there`s a writeup on the aquamist forum.