mr.ots

IMO the VR brakes do take a bit more pressure on the peddle to get them to start hauling the car up compared to a more modern car but will give good stopping power.

You shouldn't be getting a tat-tat-tat sound from the engine but with regard to idle the VR doesn't usuall idle very evenly and this can be a worry when you first listen to one but is nothing to be concerned about unless it's really erratic.

I agree with Neil G60 on the issue of acceleration, although I know what you mean when comparing it to a 2L Gti 8v. I have both and the Gti feels like it takes off quicker from standstill and in the lower rev range than the C although I'm sure this is just an illusion :lol: Once you get the C up around 4k rpm it comes into its own.

So what problems did the car have that the seller didn't tell you about?

those with really hot engines ie. over 110 water temp try getting a new rad you will be astonished how unefficent an old rad gets.

tbh i think water pump would be my first choice to fix but then obviously both would be better! i didn't use to pay as much attention as i do these days but i could have sworn my temps went up after my new rad - if i'm on a 140k water pump (given the state of some i've seen that have been replaced) then i'm tempted to think that is the cause of my high temps instead.... :scratch: :)

I changed my rad at the end of last year due to a leak and didn't notice any change in temps. Providing the car has always been filled with the correct coolant then the internal channels of the rad should stay clear in good condition.

Obviously if you have any blockages/restrictions or if the fins are blocked then you will see a difference with a new rad.

The tappets on a VR are hydraulic and can be a little noisy until you are getting full oil pressure after start up. I'd be wary if they are excessivly noisy or take a long time to quieten down. Could be a sign of an oil pressure problem.

A slipping belt would show up as steering feeling light and then getting heavy all of a sudden, and it would be "jittery" on full lock. Had that on my mk2 also.

Mine wasn't jittery, just squealed like a bitch! If the belt is very loose you could experience heavy steering as you would not be getting full assistance (and possibly no assistance) from the pump and the belt would squeal all the time, which I think is what was reported.

Sounds to me like your PAS belt is slipping. The squealing noise which gets worse on full lock is usually the belt slipping on the pulley.

Had the exact same problem on my Golf recently, replaced the belt and now no squeal and steering is much smoother. As mentioned also check the fluid is topped up.

IIRC the OEM stat opens at just over 80 degrees and I'm fairly sure this is marked on the stat body.

I considered fitting one of the neuspeed 70 degree stats when I had to change my stat housing but decided against it. The lower opening temperature just causes the engine to take slightly longer to get up to running temp. Once the engine is at running temp it's unlikely to drop below 80 degrees anyway (particularly on a VR, mine is never normally below 85-90) so there is no real benefit after initial warm up.

Two badges, different wheels, two exclusive storm only colours and sometimes a different colour leather (the green storms had cream leather)

Only Mystic Blue was a Storm exclusive colour, Classic Green was available on other Corrados

There are quite a few Mystic Blue Golfs around mind you, and some (Highline and Colour Concept) models also came with BBS solitudes.

VW love recyling :lol:

The car looks fantastic and only 42k :shock:

She is a real looker. How much did you have to part with for such a low mileage Storm?

Do you have any pics of the engine bay?

Redline MT90 is a good choice for the gearbox, I have it in mine.

I have a Toyota Hiace and it has been very reliable. Not as well speced as a VW or Merc, but for value and reliability it's up there and general running costs are good.

If you are cosidering one try and get one of the post 2001 models with the D4D engine, not sure of the price range of these. Mine is a pre 2001 model and needs to be serviced every 6000 miles instead of 10,000 for the later ones.

That sure is a nice looking C, Moonlight Blue is a great colour and those wheels really suit the car.

Get used to people looking around as you drive past them 8)

As far as I am aware there is no recommended interval for changing the chains. A lot of folk on here say they should be looked at around 100,000 and in particular the tensioner, which tends to wear. The chains will tend to rattle as they get older and this is a sign they are in need of changing.

As for other belts etc, they should visually inspect them and advise on anything that looks like it needs replacing.

An 80,000 mile service would be a full service and involve changing the plugs filters oil etc. You might want the brake fluid replaced too if it hasn't been done for a couple of years.

Expect to pay £250-£300 at a VW dealer and more if you need pads/discs etc.

Looks superb for the money mate! Mystic Blue as well isn't it?!

 

*edit*

 

Ah - no - twilight violet. Still a sweet colour though :)

Would have prefered a Mystic Blue Jim to match the C but Twilight Violet is still a nice colour.

850 notes, and it's a P reg. Not bad at all. Looks pretty straight in the pics. I had a mk3 but it was a valver. Loved it to pieces. I think they are under rated.

It's the slowest of the Gti's but it goes well enough and I always have the C for a proper turn of speed.

All in all I'm quite pleased with it. After getting £225 back for the Tipo it's only cost me 625 quid with 105,000 miles, FSH all the previous MOTs and lots of receipts. I need to get the rear beam bushes replaced but other than that it drives well.

Just sold the other half's 1994 Fiat tipo :sleeping: on ebay for £225 and bought this nice 8v Gti for £850. :D

I'm sure it will be emptying a bit more from my bank balance before too long though.

The radiator can be replaced without removing the bumper, slam panel etc. I had to do mine towards the end of last year.

Just take the battery out then unbolt the fans (four bolts) and remove them from the radiator first.Then disconnect the top and bottom hoses, unbolt the top radiator mountings and then with a piece of wood just prize the slam panel up a centimeter or so and hey presto the radiator will clear the panel and inlet manifold and come out angled towards the battery tray. You could remove the hex bolt on the right hand side of the manifold for extra clearance but I didn't bother.

Easier than taking the front of the car off IMHO.

There is a post on it somewhere if you do a search.

Welcome to the forum & Corrado ownership and good luck with the leak.

The Corrado is a great car, just make sure you keep some money in reserve to fix things from time to time :D

If you don't have a GSF near you to go and get the stuff then you might be better off going to a VW dealers and get it from there as you wont save much if you have to pay the delivery charge from GSF.

Just ask for G12+. It's the pink stuff and comes in 1 litre bottles. You should use a 40-50% mix. I can't remember how much i used last time but I think 3 litres should do it if you are completely refilling the system.

Maybe someone can confirm the capacity of the coolant system.

If you have an older black cap fitted you should change it for the updated blue one.

A1 VR6 - the Blue Velvet hard wax adds durability to the initial finish and just puts a different slant to the finish. I've tried different combinations and its quite interesting to see the different effects, current got the Double Wax (hard followed by soft wax) followed by a layer of Banana Armour and then a layer of Orange Crush

I bet that tastes nice :lol:

The fuel guage is definately affected by acceleration and braking, its probably due to the fuel sender unit being towards the front of the tank. It always shows I have more fuel under braking

You want the VW G12+, you can get it from GSF. I wouldn't use anything else.

Oh go on get some photos up :D

You can still get the car through the MOT as long as the passenger door opens from inside & outside when unlocked (lifting the pin). The central locking is not part of the test.