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mr.ots

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Posts posted by mr.ots

  2. Posted

    They have put it in correctly. The small part on the bearing (inner) is held in by the nut and thrust washer. Don't over tighten the nut when you do it up, you should just be able to move the washer with a screwdriver. Make sure you pack with grease.

  6. Posted

    Moonlight Storm with a personalised plate pulled up alongside me at at the foot of M271 on Saturday around 14:45... followed it along Totton Bypass, before I turned towards Hythe (A326) and it headed on towards Lyndhurst/New Forest - blonde lass in passenger seat.

     

    Typically I was in the Cupra... not the C :?

     

    Now had you been in your C I would have noticed you :) , although I did think you may have been having a look at the car as you hung back for a while before you overtook (I guess that was you).

     

    The wife (blonde lass) and me stayed in Lyndhurst over the weekend.

  8. Posted

    Mines done this for ages now goes up in 3 stages sometimes and then other times it goes up in one like it should have you got any pics of the said thermoswitch??

     

    I don't have a pic of the thermoswitch but it's the green component attached to the round plastic end of the motor that houses the brushes. You will notice is is wired inline with one of the brushes, all you need to do is unsolder and remove it and replace it with some wire. I did mine about four months ago now and it has worked perfectly ever since. :)

     

    Be sure to clean and lubricate your runners aswell so as not to put the motor under undue strain otherwise you may find it starts blowing the fuse. :(

  9. Posted

    As Purple Tom has said it can be the thermoswitch cutting the motor feed. If you listen carefully when operating the motor on the switch you will hear a click as the spoiler stops. I ended up removing the thermoswitch completely and replaced it with a link wire as cleaning and greasing the runners and servicing the motor didn't cure the problem, I would imagine the thermoswitch itself can become a little tired over time.

     

    If the motor did overheat with the thermoswitch removed it would draw excessive current and blow the fuse at the fusebox, which is not uncommon when the spoiler starts playing up anyway.

  10. Posted

    I had to change my last set of Toyo Proxies T1R's at 11000 miles due to excessive wear on the outside edge on both tyres . The centre and inner edges still had 3-4mm. I had a laser 4 wheel alignment done when they were fitted and I'm happy that the geomertry was set up correctly.

     

    The Toyos are well known for having soft shoulders and Toyo themselves made a point of advertising the T1R's as having a harder coupound than the T1S's they replaced which suffered badly with shoulder wear.

     

    I've gone back to Continentals, wont be using Toyos again.

  12. Posted

    i don't think i strip down is gonna help tbh

     

    this is a different problem to the one of the runners getting clogged up. I had it on mine where the spoiler goes up and down in stages - no amount of cleaning (of what were very free running rams) helped. In the end I changed the whole mech and motor. If anything is worth cleaning its the motor itself though not sure its fixable?

     

    I was having the same problem, cleaned all the rods and greased up the mechanism but still the spoiler would stop in stages. I notice when listening that there was a click when the spoiler stopped and it wouldn't move again until a second click. My first thought was a miroswitch problem but on further investigation it turned out to be a component inside the motor (green rectangular part wired inline with one of the brushes) which i suspect is some kind of regulator/resistor. Anyway, decided to bypass it and now it works fine. Not sure if it's going to work long term but thought it was worth a try.

  16. Posted

    can anyone give me their opinions on the Toyos - what are they like on wear?

     

    I've had toyos T1R's on the front of mine now for nearly 10k miles and the sholders have worn much quicker than the centres, probably going to need to change them quite soon. The grip is good but the wear is not.

     

    When I first bought the car it had new conti premium contact 2's all round and the fronts also needed changing at 10k but they had been given a hard time (new car driving style :D ) but the wear was very even across the tyre. The rears are still going strong (4-5mm) 20k later.

     

    Will probably go for Continentals or try the Michelins next time.

  19. Posted

    Try 3A0 051 849 C thats 450mm long and is the same aerial as fitted to B3 and a half Passats (which is the same as a corrado aerial)

     

    Is that just the mast? I'm after the complete aerial.

     

    Checking the special catologue in etka 3A0 035 505 C is the only one that looks similar to my original aerial 1H0 035 503 C (dropped) and is showing listed for the Corrado.

     

    2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfUntitled-1.jpg[/attachment:3vi7uncn]

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  23. Posted

    Had a look at my existing aerial today and the part no on it is (1H0 035 531 C) showing as discontinued on 31/08/97 with no replacement on ETKA.

     

    Has anyone bought an OE replacement recently who could advise of the part No listed on it. Mine is a later type with only one push fit co-axial connection.

     

    3A0 035 505 C looks similar but I don't want to order one if it's the wrong type.

     

    Thanks.

  24. Posted

    If the fault is due to a wheel sensor it shouldn't light up the warning light until the car is moving as the system detects there is speed present with no pulse signal from the sensor.

    If you want to check the resistance of the sensors they should read somewhere between 1100 - 1300 Ohms.

     

    If a speed sensor has gone open circuit would it not put the light on constantly? As in when the ABS does its self test it can not 'see' the sensor?

     

    I'm not sure about an open circuit ABS sensor, but certainly a faulty sensor (high or low resistance) may well only put the ABS warning light on when the car is moving. I had this problem last year, I'd switch the ignition on and the ABS light would come on then go off but once i was on the move the ABS light would come on again. I checked the resistance of the sensors and the NSF was reading low (around a 1000 Ohms). I replaced it and the fault was cured.

     

    I don't know if this also applies to an open circuit sensor but one way to find out would be to unplug a good sensor on a working system and see if the ABS light stays on with the car at standstill.

  25. Posted

    I need to replace my beesting aerial base and mast and came across this on ebay

     

    here

     

    It looks as though the connectors may be different from the original aerial, which I'm not concerned about as I can overcome this issue, but has anyone tried one of these and does it fit (without hitting the rear glass with the tailgate up)?

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