2_Door_fun

Hi Are you on about a small white plastic sought of funnel thing? Yep mine bust. Mindyou I had no lever!! Flusted supplied me with the whole kit n caboodle from a car he was breaking. I did not use this bit. Instead at the very end of the cable is a metal version. I had this already on my old snapped cable so with the supplied stuff I got a 2nd 1 removed the little bolt from it slipped it on and hey never will it break again. You can have the spare plastic one I have if ya like but I would try down the scrappers and see if ya can find the same metal cone at the end of a golf cable (if they have em) It will last forever. Hope it helps

As regards your no air blowing on the screen problem...I have just done this job. You will prob need a new heater box. Its a byatch to do.. Well not really it just means gutting the dash to get it all out. You don't need to remove the dash just losen it off. Remove the console kick panels and remove the centre console ie stereo and heater controls ect. Just behind the console cubbyhole is a bolt. Remove that and you can ease back the dash. You will also need to remove the heater matrix pipes that go through the bulkhead. Plus the actual heater box is also bolted through the bulkhead. Before doing this also disconect the control cables there are three at the box end The matrix and heater box come out as one. Slide out the whole unit and then slip out the matrix. Go down a breakers find a half eaten mk2 golf as I did with the dash out very nice of then the heater box was just sitting there on its own...Fit new heater box and reassemble !! dash. I found that the actual cogs were broke on the flap controls underneath the heaterbox. Maybe if yours is the same you could just try and refit new cogs whilst it was all in situ ? Link for more shots There are some great shots of owners with there interiors out doing this very job around the site !! As regards the central locking...VW querks with vac pumps n stuff. My pass door does not seem to open with a key almost like there is no barrel in it or the lock is disconected.. Still at least the C locking works from the drivers door. As for the sunroof...yep mine tilts up then sinks like the titanic on 1 side. It does not go back. I guess its just these cars and the mechanisams.. Hope it helps

Hi. those are infact reverse glow gauges as in my post. I think they are great. they work via an electrical connection and a power inverter that is supplied with the kit. Do they do em in MPH as to KMH? Anybody have em running?

Those reverse glow (1st) gauges look the tits at night though, My sis drives a souped up Polo. 1 model down from a GTI? It has reverse glow dash. Well wicked at night. Also a woman I know has a 20v turbo Golf with same style dash. Ace at night. Do early Corrado's have standard odometer clocks. ie/ My 60 has the digital dash. Those reverse gauges are made for standard clocks? ??

What about these? REVERSE GLOW Or these Dub Design Anybody got these in their cockpit??

Yeah no worries. :D It was just the 'for the sake of a fiver' bit really. OK Dad OK I'll do it !!! All good fun.

wright Dad! Thats me told[/quote:f5064] What's the point in this comment? :roll: You asked multiple questions, you got a possible answer, that happened to make reasonable sense. Further reading suggests that the year of car can take either red or green and you should find a marking on the cap of the reservoir (I think) that indicates which type is appropriate for your system. So you'd need to check yours. However, you could have found that out yourself using the search...[/quote:f5064] hay cool your boots man. As ever I'm pleased to have an answer. Yep I will drain the system. It just seemed that some have red fluid some not. I do use the search before posting. It is often difficult to get a definitive answer on forums. I write for em. They are often subjective than objective. You know a little knowledge is often dangerous. As for my comment. Mearly humour. At 35 years old it sounded like my fathers words ringing across the drive when I was a teenager. I was laughing as I read your reply...Write thats me told :D

wright Dad! Thats me told

Your all scaring me again :shock: My G60 PAS chamber is filled with Red??? The car is not on the Rd yet but when it was I had magically disapeering PAS fluid? Its not pooling in the rack gaitors? Should I flush the system or what? I was told that the red fluid disolves the rack seals? Can it damage the pump? Sorry ti hijack this post but it does give me the fear?

plus a roll of freezer bags to place said bplts n nuts in. Label bag and place on floor. So the wife can pick it up and say oh look it still works without these bits :oops:

Yep. I sure do. Actually I have lots of pictures. Got the old digi cam working whilst I was doing the job. I am also part way through writing a how to remove the gearbox guide if ya want that to. Now where did that bolt go ??????? :lol:

So if i order new corrado cv boots from the dealers, i actually get the new mk5 items? dealer supplied CV boots!!!! Are you all mad. £2-50 down at the local shop. That will and did do me fine. I had the new plastic boots on my Saab. Very nice weird but ok. Never will I ever buy CV boots from a dealer.

Hi. Daytime running lights are often controled via the ECU. Being a Saab driver also this question has popped up alot on forums especially from the otherside of the Atlantic. It requires a dealership tech 2 system to switch the lights from daytime running to operating via the dash switch. I would imagine its the same for a Volvo. As an edit.. Saab 900's 1993-1998 and the later 93 model that shares the same body have daytime running lights powered by a seperate fuse. It has been known for people to just pull this fuse!!!! What happens to the lights and control after that I've no idea...

Hi. First is it the inner or outer boot. ie, wheel or transmission end of the D shaft. I've just yesterday fixed my shafts back on the car. If its the outer then remove the hub nut. Then split the lower ball joint and the steering arm joint. Slipt the shaft out of the hub and cut away the old boot. Clean out the old grease and then get a heavy mallet. Crack the rear of the CV joint and it will pop off. The circlip is pressure based and a swift firm crack will just pop it off. Clean out the joint with a degreaser. Get yr new boot slip it up the bare shaft pack the joint with new grease. Then refit the joint onto the shaft again using a mallet tap the joint onto the splines and then when square on crack it back on to the circlip. Tie wrap the boot at either end and put yer hub back on. Job done. If its the transmission end then the job is the same except you don't remove the outboard joint. You remove the hub as before and then remove the 6 Torx bolts that hold the shaft ont on the transmission based cups. When the shaft is off clean out the grease and you will see a circlip. remove the clip and old boot and tap the joint of the splines. Slip your new boot up the shaft and again repack the joint and transmission cups with new grease. Refit the joint using the new hex key bolts supplied with your boot kit. Use Molybdium based grease to repack all joints. Put car back together and Bob yer uncle so to speak. Should not take ya more than an hour to do a joint.

Fantastic. Yout drive looks just like mine hahahahaha. I love it. Great set of images. That is a rebuild as serious as my own. I see there is a heavy box section under the bat tray. Is cutting the tray out easy enough? You tray is identical to mine :roll: Not good. Reminded me of Mk4 Escorts. Once the tray is rotten the rust is in the chassis on the old Ford's. I'll take that part No down to the stealers this week. Cheers Bud.

Cheers bud From that i guess its a dealer part? Hmm loads a money :( At least there made will try partco or simillar. Se if any pattern panels are made.

As the title sez. My Bat tray is well holed so rather than ignore it whilst the car is an ongoing thing I want to cut out the old rotten tray and weld in a new piece. Can you get panels for the C. If so where from

Cheers Grade A... So once the whole unit is out you can actually detach the panel ? Better than respaying. Cool

Hi all. Was down a mates scrapyard today. Just having a nosey around really. Found two Passat estates. Both had sunroofs? One was manual other electric. 1.0 turbo Diesel n petrol engines. The Passat has many interior touches from the C. So I was wondering does the sunroof fit? Kinda take it out as a whole unit. Get it sprayed and then fit. obviousley i would throw a batterey on the car first and check it operates.

Hi my transmission is sitting on the kitchen floor. So no probs about refilling it. I ordered so silkolene oil so its on its way.

So its 2 litres then??????? :?: Cheers Oilman, i just had a mission getting hold of a 17mm plug key nevermind oil and amounts!!

Greetings all. Bringing up this post cos. My box has been rebuilt lastweek, picked it up from my mates worshop yesterday. VR 1st n 2nd plus all new bearings throughout the box. Swapped the wrk for a Saab SS jetex exhaust.. So it has no oil in at all. Been washed stripped and re-assembled. So I'm gona get the MT90 oil as said by all. Due to the box empty of oil how much will it take? 2 litres? or what. I've seen MT90 on Demon Tweeks site. Which 90 should I use? One stated A 75W90 GL-4 gear oil for use in synchromesh boxes. Is this the choice of the Rado box? Cheers

Ha glad there is good humour on here... I had a thought about bending the lip...You could use Ceramic tile pliers. The ones you use after you have scored a tile. They have big grab. To go across the whole width of the tile so that is 6". Would mean less plier bending. Which means fewer distortion points. Sought of lots of little plier marks. You would only need to grab the lip say 3 times in the centre. Might work.

Phil said To those thinking about bending the lip of the door inwards a little to move the seal closer, I would not risk it, it would be a difficult job to do properly and my VW seals fit perfectly. Phil I'm well pleased for ya. I'm real glad yr seal fits perfect..... So now that I'm feeling jealously peeved like Kev. What would ya suggest. Bearing in mind I have terrible wind noise. Not wind for those going for a pun!! Do any of you guys suffer noise cos of the strip?? What would ya suggest as a replacement door membrane. My drivers has none.

The bearings are built in. VR have seperate bearings don't they? The box has a sticker on the side. All in German? Sez . VW Golf 2/ Jetta 2 / Golf 3Corrado (bis 1992 ohne VR6)..? So you think they are VR not G60? Edit Oh sorry gman got in before this reply??