2_Door_fun

Oh that looks a fun job.. As regeard the neuspeed low temp stuff. Well i don't have em fitted but I reckon they are worth it. My 60 runs well hot bud. I'm fitting my oil cooler this weekend. Anything that helps these cars must be a bonus. Err front intercooler neu speed stuff new oilcooler hmm what else can I sell to get this car ont he rd :lol: Your best buying the stat and low temp switch seems a little pointless to get 1 or other. Why do ya replace the housing?? Do they tend to crack or something..

I agree. My 60 has a fitting there to enabe a pressure gauge. Always unwinding itself. I actually thought my filter was loose. There was that much oil at 1 point I was like Christ where is this all coming from. It came from the sensor point.

Use a stud extractor... Centre punch the middle of the bolt. Really in the middle. Then you will need a stud extractor. Basically a very very hard drill bit but it winds itself into a pre drilled hole in reverse. Sought of as it bite's and grabs the bolt it will spin it out. I have removed snapped zorst manifold studs in this way. You punch the stud. Then get a drill and matching size extractor. Sought of drill n tap idea. Then just spin the extractor in and out spins the bolt. Only buy a good quality extractor bit, If you snap it in the bolt you will never drill it out they are very hard.

Ok You belt god's. The supplier will get me a new gates belt n send it out to me for free. He has asked for the Gates belt No. Took this of the belt 5016-41121 X 18mm Is that what he wants? Cheers Chaps.

But not with a wire brush !!!! Not a micky take. I have known people to do it!

Thankyou bud. Apreciated. The guy on the phone is telling me his book states this and I'm saying er no it wont fit. Aside anything else just down from the cam sprocket is a belt rear guide. So taking that into account no way will this belt fit. As ever Cheers

Which belt?? My new or current?? width? Answers on the back of a belt pack please :lol:

Don't know how much they are. To do a timing belt is a doddle especially on a single cam engine. Also the tensioner pulley is a 4 minute job. Used to do em on my Saab Turbo. Change it once a year as a matter of routine. Did'nt need to do the belt as the Saabs don't have belts Twin timing chains. The Saab Turbo has a massive serpentine belt and the pulleys howl when the bearings dry up. So how wide is yer belt.. :lol:

Hi all. Got my Goodyear timing belt this morning of the web. Also got a new VW tensioner pulley of my mate. He did not need it anymore. never used. pulley is the same as on the car.. Belt is not?? Its to wide for the pulley? How wide should a G60 belt be? On the car the current belt is 20mm across. My new belt is 25mm. There is no way it will slip into the pulley bed. I called up the place and they said the belt should be 25mm across with 147 teeth. What are yrs like? Cheers all

Hi. My car ran perfect and lost no water then all of a sudden it was gone!!! Warped my head also. Had the head skimmed and of course new headset fitted. After my head job :lol: I still had sparodic water probs. I would loose a small amount of water slowley and then the light would pop on. Found to be the matrix bypass saftey valve the matrix pipes were not sealing against the valve.. ie a small amount of water would be lost as steam. The valve hose area was full of sought of limescale. Not a perfect seal. I also changed my expansion tank cap. As recomended by forum users. No trouble since.

Hope its not like my head gasket was!! Water was being lost..Loads of it. Ended up being my head gasket. No1 pot was being washed out and all the water was dumping out my exhaust manifold and down the zorst... I just could not find the leak. Get a garage to do a test on your water. The garage that did my head did a water test. They used a chemical the water turned yellow that meant exhaust gas in the coolent. The only give away to me was after a run when I switched hew off and listened I got a sound like a kettle boiling. This was coming from under the car at the first joint. It was to late by the time I heard this. :roll: Hope it helps

I agree.. I had my head skimmed and refited for that price. It was warped. The head set for the G60 was preety big. I had a tougherd head gasket fitted along with the rest of the headset. My gasket blew at the Transmission end No1 pot I think. The coolent was washing out the bore and going down the exhaust!! Had it all done for £350. Ask about having yr head skimmed. I would have done the job myself but was moving house at the time..Way to busy.. also after the job I had terrible trouble with the fuel lines. It seems that VW fitted wrong lines on some C's. When the rubber is old and has been disturbed by doing a head job. The hose's will not go tight on the FPR and return pipes. VW did a recall on this in the US also there were a spate of under bonnet fires in Germany because of this.. So do a check or get some new 4.8mm fuel line. They sell it in Halfrauds...

Ok thats a good start.. So As. g60dave said On my g60 I am unable to find where the pipe from the ECU connects at present it is coming off a pipe that comes from the brake servo unit?? Is that correct? So where does the line to the cluster connect? Sorry to be a pain I just want to put the car on the rd in good order. It has been very short of TLC from its previous owner. AS AN EDIT..... Using the search i found this post. LINK Dubcharged talks about the ECU line on the wrong or right side of the butterfly valve??? My hose is connected to AS I SAID...The brake servo pipe.... :roll:

No replys??? All I need is a shot or a drawing of where these pipes should connect???? Pleeeease.. :lol:

Hi and welcome to the god of CV jobs.. Done hundreds of em. The CV circlip on the outboard joint is pressure based. You will need to remove the steering arm ball joint, Once this free you will be ok to refit. First check the joint is clean. ie clear out the grease. just incase of debris. Pack with new grease (up to you this bit by the way if you think yhe joint is clean go for it) Guide the joint onto the splines andd when up to the circlip give the hub bolt end a good hard crack with a heavy mallet. The circlip will pop back into its hidden slot. Tie wrap your CV boot and refit the joint and your steering arm ball joint. I have had this happen on an old Maestro I did work on. reversed the car no drive??? Idiot forgot to drive the joint on. Happens to us all. Chin up bud you should see my car :shock: I'm writing a how to for the knowledge base. looks like I need to get my skates on..

Hi. I belive its behind the power steering pump :shock: Nice place to put it. So you'll have to slip the belt off and push the pump out of the way.. See here good site

well..This is my first Corrado so I'm discovering as I'm going. Maybe you could go to a plumbers supply shop and get some teflon sealer. That stuff will seal anything. How does a blanking cap work?

Ah my plate is still in place. No airbox but a K&N cone ect. The round snap off plate is still there... So whats the pipe with a bolt in it. That is a naff way of sealing a pipe.. Threads leak.

Cheers as I said not fitted by me. I was aware that the 1m line should not be tapped. Same on the Saabs I used to drive. The pipe length and bore is very important to the MFA. It is programmed to read volume at revs ect. Its base code will ref the 1m line by say 3mm bore caries x pres n air!!! Dong brain flat line!! So my plenum should have two points 1 for the ECU left alone and another for what the gauge cluster?? Anybody fancy taking a shot of their setup? Or a tech diagram? Ok been busy..Update. I cut the boost gauge into the FPR line. That removes 1 'T' plus some excess line. i took another shot of how it is now. Is this where the ECU line should 'T' into? this is what is left after the altering I have done...? Remember this is how I found the connections. Any help appreciated.

Hi.. Do all G60's have a C canister?? Mine has none. Also on the tech diagram it shows small lines of the rear of the plenum. My plenum seems to have blanks? But there is a line blocked with a large bolt. See image

intresting post. I am aware that you are never to 'T' off the ecu line. My Saab was also the same it messed up the fueling n stuff. The pipe on the Saab was only a few inch's long. A question for the guru's. my car has a boost gauge not fitted by me. It 'T' from the ecu line!!! So that needs soughting out. Question my line is split with a couple of 'T' pieces. If you 'T' from the gauge cluster line ar'nt you in theory still making the ecu line longer??? ie you 'T' off it and that means there is a break in the 1m line with another pipe to the gauge. In theory making the whole line longer. Maybe my lines are a little messy. Take alook. Answers please. So looking at the image is the ECU line to be 1m long from ecu to the 1st 'T' or is all the line to be 1m long??? Including the T's and red silicone I have fitted as a stop gap due to poor rubber state?

your on your way mate..hehe. Yep a money pit it will be :shock: I know and mines not even on the Rd yet!!! Much to sought out. Good luck with the new family addition..Not the Corrado :wink: I bought my C 6 months back my kids are now 7 n 4 so I thought time for some 2 door fun... :D

Hi Bud... Man the glove box was a total mare to get out???? It was like a stealth security item...lock your car up watch it all fold up into its own glove box..There you go nobody nickin my car !!! :lol: To get the g box out you have to grab the inner lower steel lip of the dash and really pull it down I mean really pull. This gives the box the space to slip out. Getting it back in was just as hard???? To be honest this is my first Corrado it was a car I always wanted. So it was a case of oh well no haynes so get stuck in. I removed all my clocks ect to have a nosey around ala yep little rattles and wires that seemed to be floating around behind the stereo. I also had a curious connection at the fuse box. A mystery green wire that was wrapped around a 30amp fuse leg (stereo) It turned out to be a conection to my aftermarket oil pres gauge??? The car has been short of TLC in its life. So I set to work on it. also had an alarm with a nest of wires? Why alarm fitters can't do a neat trim wire job is beyond me!! It was not to hard a job. I had all that lot out in about an hour. Loads of screws !!! i wanted the clocks out as my water temp gauge was not working. Fixed that as the gauge needle had jumped out of its groove. The cars history (a mountain of recipts) Showed 2 previous head gasket jobs and coolent loss. Maybe the needle jumping its groove was a sign of bad overheating. Since then I've had the head skimmed. It was warped so with luck and 2 new sender plugs that should be ok. Since fitting new sender plugs the car fires up and ticks over much smoother. Maybe the ECU was getting duff info from the old plug? As regards the dash well it was OK but I have done alot on alot of cars. The heater vents popped out and screws behind some of em. The ends of the dash there is a little bolt there. A bolt at the foot of the centre console. Removing this bolt enables the front of the dash to pull back, and the inner struts to the dash they were self tappers. A headache to suss out how to get the heater box out then the realisation it bolts through the bulkhead. The hardest thing was removing the spring loaded clips on the matrix hoses... At that point in the engine bay I have 3 nitrous injection solonoids. Made the job hard. With a bit of effort and some bad language I got em off...! The box then slipped down but not out. i had left 1 control wire atached to the vent flaps. It fits down the side of the box. It was then I saw the matrix slip out of the box. It was not screwed in just the plastic clips. So I did not really need to struggle with the matrix hose clips could have left that all in place But its OK I could do it again very fast and alot more efficent. Done once never forget sought of thing. So yeah all in all not to hard even though my mate nearly died when he saw the interior!! :lol:

Ah downer CF. I just realised those gauges don't have the speedo space for my digital readout. They are for standard odometer c's My clocks have digi on rev counter and speedo... Sometimes you can get those on Ebay UK but in KPH. Still i'll keep looking.

Hi. those are infact reverse glow gauges as in my post. I think they are great. they work via an electrical connection and a power inverter that is supplied with the kit. Do they do em in MPH as to KMH? Anybody have em running? Also in MPH 8) http://koopjes.marktplaats.nl/auto_dive ... lQ%3D&df=1 Top man..Now what does the site say about ordering em :wink: