
2_Door_fun
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Everything posted by 2_Door_fun
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This item is fitted into my IC pipe just after the S charger?? I have no idea what it is and have not seen it on any of yr engine bays... To all intents it looks like some kind of dump valve?? Not htat you need one on a Supercharged system??? It seems to vent pressure as there is a spray of goo n stuff on the boost pipe. It takes along time for any spray to build up. So hopefully all is healthy with that bit?? I have a set of blue silicones to go on but I really don't want to go slicing em in half if I can help it. As a note my 60 is fitted with a 10lb NOZ bottle and a 100 shot injector at the plenum..
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I was wondering if they are made. I see Golfs n Polo's with em from the factory or rather from a manufacturer. Do they do em? Blue wooould be nice as I have a Blue C. I'm not to clever with tint paint!!!
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Excellent springs. Saab turbo's are just the same the rotationl damper srings wear their seats away?? If you rev you engine and let of quick you can actuall hear the springs rattle.. Always a give away. If the judder is clutch related it will be knackered pressure plate springs and pos the release bearing not disengaging smoothly.
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Anybody have any experience using these types of kit?
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Front bearings usually sound whooo whooow whooo. My front pass is wobbling :D well bad new hubs going on this week. Rears grind you hear it and yer heart sinks. Always under load as you corner say left. It unloads the opposite side = no noise.
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I'm back in my home town now. Northwich in Cheshire and yes the Rds suck round here. Really shat some are in a mess of patchwork squares and pot holes. The council have more money here than anywhere else. Is that true you can make a claim on damage such as this?
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Yeah did the motor. greased the bearings, Swapped out the brushes with some I swiped drom the breakers yd. Replaced my thermal fuse on the motor. My fan was only working on 4. I aim to replace the slider controls with the later rotary dials. Soughted out my clocks. Temp gauge was not working. It the thermal arm had slipped from its groove at the needle mount. All in all a good first job on my first C. Since then the gearbox is out for a healthcheck. today driveshafts re-booted both ends. New mounts for the front struts and a poly bush kit on the way. Loads of stuff to do before she goes on the rd in anger.
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Oh downer. I would have said come over to St Neots and I'll do it with ya. Unfortunatley i've just moved back to Cheshire. Go for it. The hardest part was removing the damn glove box and removing the spring clips from the hoses at the bulkhead arghhhhh. Much shouting and damning of VW. Both now replaced with rolled edge jubilee clips..
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Actually its not to bad. You don't have to remove the dash. Just remove all the kick panels ect. Dash front facia ect and then remove the heater channels. Unclip the control cabels, remove the hose clips that connect the matrix at the bulkhead and then undo the two nuts that hold the heater box in place on the bulkhead. The whole unit should be teased out and there you go. Matrix removed and replaced. My heater box was duff so it was a voyage of discoverey!! In the words of a famous publisher that does not supply a manual for our cars. Refitting is the reverse of removal...hahahahahahhahaa :lol: I have just last week done said job. This is my first C and I got stuck in. Was ok. See here
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Hi. Have you tried an online parts request? Place one here... http://www.247spares.co.uk/vw-parts/ Just ask for a G60 rack.. When I have asked for a steering rack I usually get a couple of companies call me about a pickup service-rebuild and then deliver it back. Last one I did was for the mother-inlaws Daewoo. Cost £150 rebuilt and returned. Worth a try.
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Both driveshafts off and both need new innerboots. How do you fit the new boot. I have a Porters manual but it does not really focus on the C. I have a few months back fitted both outer boots. I just tapped the joint off without removing the shaft. Can you remove the outboard joint and slide the inner boot up or not? The porter manual talks about Circlips and pressing the joint off. I have no circlip at the shaft end??? As an edit.... Just removed nearside shaft and yes a circlip. joint popped easily. It would appear that the off side shaft has had a boot on in the past. Previous owner lost said circlip and has hammered top off shaft to spread it a little. Thereby holding joint in place......GREAT :x Anyway now I know how they pop. Just got to solve this one now....!
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Hmm just checked my handbook it also states said G 002 000 fluid. Is this always green?
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I have RED cap on the res. All it sez is 'Use Approved fluids only' So now to find where said fluid is disapeering to. Not on the drive buy the way!! Prob in the rack bellows!!!
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Actually as a matter of interest... No I did'nt!! I have em but not with me. Done lots on lots of cars. The top spring cup was resting against the threads so it locked its self down. So the nut just spun off. The C is my first so its having alot of TLC whilst I run my 900 turbo (SAAB) It just seemed such a weird setup very little to it all. I had to spin of the tube nut to lift off the top mount. The car is lowered but on what I belive are standard shoxs (KYB)
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So is that it...Spin the top nut off and clunk the whole leg drops out :shock: The leg dropped and then I spun off with my fingers?? The tube nut. Removed the mount and sat there in amazement.. Is that all that holds it all and your rubber on the floor?? Should my strut have been rotating freeley in the turret? How do you know when the tube nut is up to torque? Mine just spun off... I have mounts with the bearings built in. Sorry I'm used to ford n SAAB mounts that have big bearings 3 items and bolts holding em in the turret.. Whilst its all up on jacks I may as well replace what i can. VR6 seems the pop route to go. Anybody got a diagram of how the 2 mounts differ, how they fit together. As read in posts must remember the top plates or a trip to the scrappers...
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Should I rebuild my fully operational sunroof?
2_Door_fun replied to corradophil's topic in Interior
Yeah and mine. It tilts and then tilts like the Titanic!!!!! Does not slide though. Or you could brake yours then tell us how to fix ours haha. -
Hi Supercharged. Oh OK. I don't mind writing stuff. Its just some forums are a bit tight n don't like someone popping up with ideas. I'll do the cable writeup no prob. My lever does not appear to be like that found say on a golf in the scrappers. Its more like an old bonett lock clamp lever. You know the sought found on Mini's ala Micheal Caine. So do you have any ideas on what fits in the foot well. I guess it fits on the drivers side. There is nothing there at the mo.!!! Will a lever setup from a Mk2 Golf fit? I know the C has the two striker pins so its def its own cable.
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Hi. Supercharged. Thanks for the reply. My car is having a new clutch, belts hub bearings SC rebuild, Already has a new Heaterbox (that was fun) plus all the clocks r now working. All good fun. S roof next. So do ya think the pump will be troubled? Or should I just replace it all. I'm going through a divorce at the mo so its spend spend. What I aint got her n he cant have...!
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Hi all. Great place this by the way. I'm a member of http://www.saabcentral.com this place is just as good. Wrote many writeups for saabs so if anybody wants one doing give me a shout. Here's one of mine on gearbox rempval if you want to take a look. http://www.saabcentral.com/~munki/technical/transmission/changing_the_transmission.htm Anyway. My G60 has had the release lever moved under the drivers wing!!! My cable has snapped!!! So rather than by a new cable n cut it short I thought I would replace it and put it back to stock. So what do i need parts n No's if anyone has em. At the Mo I am using a long long screwdriver and a torch to pop the hood. Cheers all.
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Sorry to drag up an old post.... This ermmmm PAS fluid. I seem to have amazing disapeering fluid...To be precise RED fluid :roll: Where will it be going? Sitting inside the rack bellow maybe. IS that really bad? I did not pour said fluid. My car is off the Rd for major TLC at the mo. I have had her for 4 months and I seem to be now losing fluid at a rate of knots... Does it really kill the rack seals! So this is a new rack then? SUPER more TLC. What will be the best way of flushing out the system. Should I flush prior to replacement. I assume so then green is running through the system...? Will the red damage the pump or pipes?
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Hi. Yeah on start up I get a high needle around the 60-70 mark. When warm it can fall very low. I replaced the pump when I got the car. Just for good measure I did not improve much. When running it sits around 40?? I have done a search and read about 'dynamic oil pressure'?? Sought of two senders. 1 on the oil filter and 1 at the side of the head. As a point my sender is located at the filter would it make a diff if fitted to the head?? O would have thought the head would have been high pressure. usually the cam feed is high pressure as its the last point on the oil train?
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Hi all. Went down the scrappers last week for bits n bobs. Found a Mk2 Golf with the dash out and sitting there was the heaterbox. Never get a better oppertunity than this I thought. Sp fpr £15 I got the box, Matrix n hoses and anything else I liked. Its plastic so of little interest to an old fashioned breakers who is interested in steel reclamation. So afetr much fun and bad language I took the guts of the dash out for investigative reasons ( Whats in there :lol: ) Refitted the box. Along the way found out what was up with the old 1 see photos. Fixed my temp gauge. The spring arm had slipped out of the groove. 2 new sender units ble n black and all is sweet. Ahhh warm air and on the screen too....
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Hi all the G60 is off the Rd and i'm running the Saab 900 turbo at thre mo. Just fitted a new heater box and rebuilt the dash (with no rattles). Thought I'd look at boost. When following the indtructions for boost diagnosis using MFA 2 the description on various sites states that at idle I should see 450 - 800 on the readout. At idle (cold engine) I get 390 - 420. The info states that anything below 450 is prob to much timing advance.... How do you sought this out??? Or should the engine be warm??? Cheers all